the poor-man HMI

[Walintino Nording]

hi ,

anyone knows what s the poor man way to replace HMI ? in fact i have no other solution !

 

thanks

 

w

[David Mullen ASC]

anyone knows what s the poor man way to replace HMI ? in fact i have no other solution !

 

Poor man's HMI? They're called reflector boards...

 

It's a big problem: besides reflectors, your typical choices are daylight-balanced fluorescents or putting blue gel on tungstens. Blue-dipped photoflood bulbs sort of fall into the second category. There are also daylight-balanced LED's, but I can't say they are cheaper than HMI's.

[Walintino Nording]

it s a big problemes yes !

i am shooting in 16 mm , in-doors location .

if both fluorescents and the blue gel on tungstens ? but i am affraid of the amateur effect . unless a trick with the film , or hardkor contrast ?

 

tks

 

w

[John Carreon]

it s a big problemes yes !

i am shooting in 16 mm , in-doors location .

if both fluorescents and the blue gel on tungstens ? but i am affraid of the amateur effect . unless a trick with the film , or hardkor contrast ?

 

Hello,

 

Depending on how many windows you have, you could gel them to match Tungsten...most likely it'd be cheaper then renting a bunch of lights.

 

Then all your color-temperature would match...that is if you're using tungsten lights for inside.

 

John

[greg bates]

I've seen a few people using these alzo lights. I'm going to pick up at least one of the bigger ones and give it a try.

 

http://alzovideo.com/

[Walintino Nording]

in clear ; No HMI = No try

yep !

having some should be a priority ,

those in the pic are there trusted for serious stuff ?

Edited January 8, 2007 by Walintino Nording

[Jonathan Bowerbank]

in clear ; No HMI = No try

yep !

having some should be a priority ,

those in the pic are there trusted for serious stuff ?

 

Too broken for me to reply to this directly...however

 

Get a large source tungsten lamp and a full CTB, you'll be peachy :)

 

consider a Xenon too

[greg bates]

You can do a search over at DVXuser and dvinfo to see what other people have used it for. I've seen post from people who have used it in features and music videos. I can't vouch for it as i've never used it...that said i'm in the same boat as a lot of people who can't afford the lost stops of using ctb but need to boost daylight. Terrible quandry for those of us who don't really have rental access to HMI's and flo's just don't have the punch. So for the price and return policy and willing to give these a go.

[Walintino Nording]

i have 3 red-head 800 watt , but i need the HMI !

i am sure there is a trick ; Alchimie :)

the secret is the" lamp" inside ? i mean , if i arrange to have the HMI lamp in the red-head . could somthing like that works ?

Edited January 8, 2007 by Walintino Nording

[greg bates]

i have 3 red-head 800 watt , but i need the HMI !

i am sure there is a trick ; Alchimie :)

the secret is the" lamp" inside ? i mean , if i arrange to have the HMI lamp in the red-head . could somthing like that works ?

No. HMI's require a ballast so your choices are Alzo, Kino (or the like), or the real deal.

[David Mullen ASC]

Maybe this new technology will solve our lighting problems, as long as they can make a 3200K and 5500K version:

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070107/sc_nm/...nt_green_pig_dc

[Jonathan Bowerbank]

Maybe this new technology will solve our lighting problems, as long as they can make a 3200K and 5500K version:

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070107/sc_nm/...nt_green_pig_dc

 

Very nice ;)

[David Sweetman]

Maybe this new technology will solve our lighting problems, as long as they can make a 3200K and 5500K version:

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070107/sc_nm/...nt_green_pig_dc

Crazy, we could start breeding actors for extreme low-light scenarios.

[Walintino Nording]

belive it or not ,

i saw -15 years ago - dead bodies lighting like that !

cause of death ; phosphore bomb

it s sad thinking , exuse me if i ask how do you shoot them ? (in war zone , etc.. )

Edited January 8, 2007 by Walintino Nording

[Jim Feldspar]

I've seen a few people using these alzo lights. I'm going to pick up at least one of the bigger ones and give it a try.

 

http://alzovideo.com/

This is from their web site:

 

 

"ALZO HMI lights have a very long bulb life (about 7000 hours) so concerns about light failure

during a shoot are eliminated. In addition, as HMI lights age, they do not have the color shifting

issue as with Tungsten."

 

 

HMI lights do not color shift with age? What?

 

Sure, true tungsten (not what most people mean as generalized incandescent but tungsten

filament lamps) get deposits on the inside of the glass that darken the light, but HMIs still

shift about a degree per hour (more blue) right?

Edited January 8, 2007 by Jim Feldspar

[Matt Sandstrom]

http://alzovideo.com/

i was ready to buy one of their fastbox kits until i realized that the "800" is only a 140, with the "equivalent output of 800w tungsten". i'd rather use kinos in that case, though at the great price i might still get one for car and mobile work since it would run great off a small inverter. i spend so much money renting small basic lights like rifas and kinos that i should really buy one or two.

 

/matt

[greg bates]

i was ready to buy one of their fastbox kits until i realized that the "800" is only a 140, with the "equivalent output of 800w tungsten". i'd rather use kinos in that case, though at the great price i might still get one for car and mobile work since it would run great off a small inverter. i spend so much money renting small basic lights like rifas and kinos that i should really buy one or two.

 

/matt

Same boat. I've read other comments on different sites in regards to the 800w estimate being generous. I understand that a HMI is 4x the tungsten equivalent. That would make this lite 6x the tungsten equivalent. The thing I like about it is its compact and would do well on a small 2k genny if you had a couple, even with the larger one. I'll let you know.

[Jonathan Bowerbank]

belive it or not ,

i saw -15 years ago - dead bodies lighting like that !

cause of death ; phosphore bomb

it s sad thinking , exuse me if i ask how do you shoot them ? (in war zone , etc.. )

 

S'pose you'll need a reflective reading :/

[Mitch Gross]

The 800w reference is supposed to be the size tungsten light punching through a CTB gel to equal their light. I agree that it isn't particularly clear.

[greg bates]

The 800w reference is supposed to be the size tungsten light punching through a CTB gel to equal their light. I agree that it isn't particularly clear.

Refresh me Mitch but how many stops would be loss going thru full CTB gel? 800w effectively becomes...?

[Satsuki Murashige]

Maybe this new technology will solve our lighting problems, as long as they can make a 3200K and 5500K version:

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070107/sc_nm/...nt_green_pig_dc

Yes, but how would you get it on a C-stand? On second thought, let's not go there.

 

Greg, full CTB loses two stops.

[Paul Bruening]

DICHROIC PARS DICHROIC PARS DICHROIC PARS. How's that for too much emphasis? Dichroic PARS are 5200 Kelvin, come in 1K (wall power), go into cheap theatre cans, last about 200 hours, don't flicker like HMI's, don't need any filtering thereby putting all the watts onto your subject, and cost about $150.00 each.

 

However, a nice sheet of 1", single sided styro is a lot easier to use.

[M Joel W]

DICHROIC PARS DICHROIC PARS DICHROIC PARS. How's that for too much emphasis? Dichroic PARS are 5200 Kelvin, come in 1K (wall power), go into cheap theatre cans, last about 200 hours, don't flicker like HMI's, don't need any filtering thereby putting all the watts onto your subject, and cost about $150.00 each.

 

However, a nice sheet of 1", single sided styro is a lot easier to use.

 

 

Where are these availible? Also, how brights is a 1k (in tungsten watts equivalent)? Given that CTB loses nearly two stops (as mentioned above) would it be approximately the strength of a 250w tungsten bulb? (75w hmi?)

[greg bates]

Yes, but how would you get it on a C-stand? On second thought, let's not go there.

 

Greg, full CTB loses two stops.

Thanks Satsuki!

[Paul Bruening]

PAR 64 in a dichroic is getting harder to find. I got my last ones from Mole Richardson. They're not listed online so you have to call and talk to someone in Sales. Two lamp manufacturers used to make them but only one does now. I can't remember who that is, now.

 

They kick out a full 1000 watts of energy at 5200 Kelvin. They acheive this by overdriving the filament. A normal PAR 64 at 3200K will last about 800 hours. The dichroic PAR will flame out inside of 200 hours. They also work through their chemical coating and reflector. I don't recall how that works, exactly. Like any PAR, you're stuck with the beam shape and angle built into the globe. I often diffuse or bounce them.

 

You can get theater cans to put the lamps in at Dr. Bob's:

 

http://www.prolightingsupplies.com/shop_sh....php?sku=100135

 

But you have to get the bale block (makes the can go onto a common light stand) from someone like Mole.

 

I love my PAR cans. I stack them on a peice of angle iron and bale them to a bigger stand. That gives me 4K of light at 5200 Kelvin for daylight fills on medium and close-up shots. Like I said, A styro reflector is a heck of a lot easier. The Dichroic PARS are useful on day-interiors where you have big windows to compete with. Sometimes, it's better to just gel those windows down a few stops and correct them to tungsten.

 

Good luck.