M Joel W

What camera are you using? You're trying to recover clips from the Gemini? At least in my experience they're available to read in OSX finder so long as you write clips to media or whatever the option is before turning off the Gemini. I think I misunderstood your question.

Re: 2K ProRes vs ArriRAW, there is no benefit to raw in terms of color or tonality that I see – if you get the exposure and white balance anywhere in the ballpark. There's no appreciable difference in dynamic range in my experience, either. And there's no highlight recovery algorithm as there is with Red and Black Magic. In terms of resolution, 2.8K is noticeably sharper and at higher ISOs, very subtly noisier than ProRes. Sometimes I think I prefer the look of 2K because I prefer a softer image. But I also prefer a little more texture and I like the flexibility of adjusting white balance and exposure in post; even if it should be easy to correct in Resolve, I like being able to adjust the raw sliders. Long story short, it's not much better. Despite all that, I always shoot ArriRAW, mostly for the sharpness, texture, and ability to dial in exposure.

Probably mercury vapor street lamps, which have since been increasingly replaced with LEDs.

I see both 365nm and 395nm LED lights on Amazon and the one I posted earlier I believe is 185nm and 253nm. Would higher frequency light work better? I am leaning toward a 395nm 10w LED light now.

I researched it a bit more on eBay, and apparently the Jansjo LED isn't a great option. That above UV light I have did work well, but it felt a little excessive/dangerous to look at compared with the UV LEDS – and it didn't work for my Voigtlander Zoomar. I think that UV LEDs like I assume your flashlight is are probably best, but I don't have a definitive answer or know if there's a best wavelength. As I mentioned, I have, or had, some lenses that have a slightly different tint (Voigtlander Zoomar, Tegea, 37-140mm Foton zoom) and I wonder if these have thorium in them or lanthanum, and if there is a way to "de-yellow" them as well, as I have not had as much luck. (I sold the Zoomar for this reason but kind of regret it now.)

I searched and didn't see an answer, but maybe I didn't look deep enough. I don't want to damage the lens. I have heard of some places that remove and treat just the thoriated element. In the past, I had luck using a light like this on some lenses: https://www.amazon.com/UV-C-Light-Lamp-Bulb-Ozone/dp/B081CMKVHR/ref=sr_1_34?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.t7SgdabuVcsPyTtVKq08BhHZDIOle6MX0QBnSg0c866ZVsFa_8cUArXK5E_tGdZfsg66W1Ik9_H9eNxjFoth-GZfiZw20JpvlRbBPW0TRm8TMnbDR0KXf7dVqXPMZsbUfABqetm5IRgrO1m2WYLzuJuYubLnfeHTcc7T5JhM20wxt-OFqARagMqFKlRwnDD7TWf2Cw6aDUkhipHdegAg6Dy-oi2ZI7hX_9vjLTQyc-ZNh2oWrxD2gq0GE73eBnP7U1L2HXexXhEhf6Cm2nSRmZ4ooMeLS6aYz88R2Sj17f8bbganKZlYdGCZJ_9lTQRIy87zjiAmWaLHYfnAbSadL88bpD1GwsL2iCIk3itK4p-7nnPOMLRNPtT0tqDVJalz0XeiBQOmmgg_yWo6SeAZWcAaminchAq-0eWtiLaW7R1WnM5Pj5en7epmWwNWoAXX.PaDBPRvg_ktAxo9AzYH2ijwjQGsPP-YkPbcO7FOx66M&dib_tag=se&keywords=uv+sterilization+light&qid=1742066122&sr=8-34 But I'd like to try something a little less intense. I can start to smell ozone with that, or maybe it's my imagination. I'm mostly working with a 35mm f1.4 pre-AI Nikkor. And 50mm f1.4 Fuji. Is there a specific wavelength you want? Can these lamps damage the lens? Lastly, where I have not had luck was with a Voigtlander Zoomar that had a slightly different tint. I have noticed two of my other lenses (Tegea 9.8mm and 37-140mm Foton Zoom) have yellow tints but these are more subtle. Is this due to lanthanum? Is it possible to anneal or reduce this or not worth it? I do not want to damage these lenses. Thanks.

I missed that. Looks like you’re right. I’m still going with different lens entirely because the metric focus marks are blue on the Aaton mount one? But I could be wrong about that, too.

It could be an Aaton mount, in which case it is likely possible to send it in for conversion. (I had my 7-63mm PL converted to Aaton.) The focus ring looks entirely different, though, so it's clearly not the same lens.

I sold it on eBay. All of this has been sold.

Looked great. How much of the atmospherics (the fog in the graveyard scene, the snowfall) was done in comp and how much in camera? Why did the mesopic filter reduce apparent saturation? Wouldn't band pass filters increase the apparent saturation of the image? For the candle-lit scenes, how much supplemental lighting was there in addition to the candles?

I’ve heard that Robert Richardson does something similar but with backlights, combing a hard backlight with a soft source nearby but more to the side to carry it and wrap it around a bit while maintaining the shape and direction.

Hi Camille, bad timing it just sold last week.

What are the rumors of a mid-tier Alexa?

These are still available. I'll sell the set for $1600 net to me if I can sell them before the end of the year.

Petter sure I was thinking the 17.5-75mm. I think Tyler is right.