subtly shaping light for deep interior

[Spalding Hamsun]

I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how to light the attached scene. It is a pub which I will be shooting during the day. There are fluroescent lights in the building, which I want to try to avoid using. Action will be happening on the floor of the pub, but most of it will be at the bar. Because the bar is so far away from the windows, the light is going to be very flat. Is there any way I can subtly shape the light on the talents' faces? I am keen to use the windows as the main light source, with natural light if possible. In fact I want a very natural look - I only want to subtly shape it.

[Spalding Hamsun]

I should also say that I do have access to lighting. Not HMI's unfortunately, but kinos, gelled tungstens etc. Also plenty of flags, bounce etc.

[David Mullen ASC]

I should also say that I do have access to lighting. Not HMI's unfortunately, but kinos, gelled tungstens etc. Also plenty of flags, bounce etc.

 

I'd start by flagging off half of the windows so that the bar is more 3/4 instead of frontally-lit, then wrap that more from the side with the Kinos.

 

You could imagine that the daylight is dim enough at the bar to allow some practical lighting behind the counter.

 

You could also create some slashes of hot sunlight with some Joker 800 Source-4 Lekos if you could rent some.

[Spalding Hamsun]

I'd start by flagging off half of the windows so that the bar is more 3/4 instead of frontally-lit, then wrap that more from the side with the Kinos.

 

You could imagine that the daylight is dim enough at the bar to allow some practical lighting behind the counter.

 

You could also create some slashes of hot sunlight with some Joker 800 Source-4 Lekos if you could rent some.

 

Thanks for that... I thought about practicals hanging above/over the bar. I don't have a lot of experience mixing different temperature light sources and I'm worried that if I hang practical tungsten lights my talents' skin tones will be orange and unnatural.

[David Mullen ASC]

Thanks for that... I thought about practicals hanging above/over the bar. I don't have a lot of experience mixing different temperature light sources and I'm worried that if I hang practical tungsten lights my talents' skin tones will be orange and unnatural.

 

There are blue-dipped photofloods that are more like 4800K, so only slightly warm-looking. Or use daylight compact flos and daylight tubes in the bar.

[Ronald Gerald Smith]

You could also create some slashes of hot sunlight with some Joker 800 Source-4 Lekos if you could rent some.

 

David,

 

What would be the advantage of using the Joker in a Source 4 configuration rather than a standard arri 575 or a 1200 hmi par with barndoors narrowed? I am assuming the joker is going to give a sharper cut and more defined slash, but is there any special reason why you would choose one over another for the specific use of creating slashes of sunlight?

[Adrian Sierkowski]

I normally use VNSP pars for this stuff, as they're cheap and easy, but as with the Source-4 you get more of a throw and more intensity in your beam I find with sharper cuts -v- a fresnel unit.

[J. Lamar King IMPOSTOR]

David,

 

What would be the advantage of using the Joker in a Source 4 configuration rather than a standard arri 575 or a 1200 hmi par with barndoors narrowed? I am assuming the joker is going to give a sharper cut and more defined slash, but is there any special reason why you would choose one over another for the specific use of creating slashes of sunlight?

 

It's about control. With the JoLekos, you get a punchy, focused, daylight source that you can make hard or soft cuts with and even use gobos if you wanted.