John Mackey Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Just got some older color negative stock back from the lab. I had a 400 roll of Kodak Vision 500T, 320T and 250D tested. The results 500T: R=.42, G=.96, and B=1.37 ND=.65 320T: R=.38 G=.85, and B=1.28 ND=.60 250D: R=.50 G=.86, and B=1.12 ND=.69 What do these numbers mean? Should I overexpose? Underexpose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Dunn Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Just looking at the 500D, the last graph on this data sheet http://motion.kodak.com/motion/uploadedFiles/5263_ti2517.pdf shows what the densities should be on fresh stock. 0.30 is 1 stop of density, your clip test has rather more than 1 stop more density than it should have, so you need to over-expose by rather more than 1 stop. The difference in the red is about 0.2, green 0.4 and blue 0.4. The differences in density don't matter too much, they're dealt with in grading. I'm sure you'll get some better advice soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Stewart Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 typical RGB readings on any of those stocks should be 14-20 for R, 50-65 for G, 84-100 for B. Red is the outer layer and looks to be totally shot for those stocks you have, meaning they'll produce a variety of uncontrolled results from a faded, grainy, desaturated picture, to not rendering much of an image at all. If you're shooting something a little experimental, they try it, but that stock really belongs in the recycling bin to be quite honest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Mackey Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 typical RGB readings on any of those stocks should be 14-20 for R, 50-65 for G, 84-100 for B. Red is the outer layer and looks to be totally shot for those stocks you have, meaning they'll produce a variety of uncontrolled results from a faded, grainy, desaturated picture, to not rendering much of an image at all. If you're shooting something a little experimental, they try it, but that stock really belongs in the recycling bin to be quite honest. I will be converting the footage to black and white in post production. So does the RGB really matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Charles MacDonald Posted April 10, 2012 Premium Member Share Posted April 10, 2012 I will be converting the footage to black and white in post production. So does the RGB really matter? to make B&W you combine all three colours, so if the stock is has gone grainy you will get extra grain. if the colour ballance is too far off it will look like you used a random B&W filter. OTOH, any colour shift will not matter in B&W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Mackey Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 to make B&W you combine all three colours, so if the stock is has gone grainy you will get extra grain. if the colour ballance is too far off it will look like you used a random B&W filter. OTOH, any colour shift will not matter in B&W. The lab said I should overexpose, but since I am shooting mostly night ext and int, and I have a lens that only goes f 2.2, would adding more light be effective? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Charles MacDonald Posted April 11, 2012 Premium Member Share Posted April 11, 2012 Adding more light, or opening the lens wider or the two ways that one can add exposure. (slower frame rate is another as it leaves the shutter open longer but of course that speeds up the action.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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