Editing Neg on Steenbeck?

[Peter Humble]

Hi,

 

I know this is not how you're supposed to do things...but without going into lengthy description I'm just wondering:

 

1. Is it possible to edit Neg on a Steenbeck? I'm just getting conflicting reports as to whether the Neg is strong enough.

 

2. Is there such a thing as a 16mm dedicated neg editor? What do you call this machine?

 

Thanks,

Peter

[Simon Wyss]

No!

No, don’t do that. An original’s perforation must not become damaged which it will on a editing machine, no matter what make. Flatbed editors with prism and large sprocket are especially proper to warp the hole edges.

 

Negatives for assembly are wound through synchronizers only, sprocket wheels that make the least resistance and which teeth fit best for the purpose.

 

You may want a three or four-gang synch roller according to the make-up of the negative, i. e. whether you mount straight or in two or more bands for doing away with visible splices, superimpressions or more complicated dissolves. It takes two gangs minimum to match the original with the finished work print (cut print in my country).

[Brian Drysdale]

You also need a neg splicer, which has a narrower splice compared to the standard chemical spicier. That's something you really need to practise before doing it in anger.

[Gregg MacPherson]

If you search "16mm syncroniser" and "hot splicer" on eBay in the Cameras Photo section there are some quite cheap.

 

You could also try to find an out of work neg cutter to do the job. Or at least to give you some advice, maybe lend you some gear. I did a neg cut on a 1/2 hour film I shot years ago. With the best advice and proper gear, but I still heard from the lab later that a couple of my splices didn't hold.

 

I would only do it yourself if you're really broke, or really interested in the process.

 

Cheers,

Gregg

[Peter Humble]

Thanks a lot for the responses.

Info much appreciated.