Jessica Bennett

Looks like a larger source

Shooting on F700, we used 2 - 10K projectors and it looked great. Perhaps anything less would not have had this richness in color.

I am shooting in a studio with some soft HMI lighting, using only a 1.2K and a 2.5K, both with diffusion or bounced for a gently-lit daylight look. Shooting against a 35' white cyc, with the subject 15' away from the cyc. We want to light the cyc and subject separately with projected color fx images. Any idea on how much lumens we should be looking for in a projector?

Too low budget to get the right location? Your key grip or dolly grip should be able to make something perfect for the situation using channel wheels. I do it all of the time. Then, use a short jib arm for booming up and down. As for a specific tiny dolly with a booming arm, I don't know.

Just to mention about specs on grip equipment... If companies offered true specs to polecats and spreaders, I'm sure they'd have a big insurance issue. Its different when the rigging depends on itself, like truss. Safety first, know what you're doing before you attempt do it. Gripping is common sense, just everybody doesn't have a simple like that.

I prefer Avenger because the riser tubes are thick and the stand weighs itself down pretty well. Even though Modern stands are for the Matthews lovers, the knuckles are aren't easy to grab and the stand doesn't feel any more sturdy than the Matthews. One thing I don't understand about the Avenger is how to repair it.

Speedrail keeps things extremely versatile. For example, you can make a nice little boom to arm out in a quickie. But if you'd like a nice frame-only kit, look up square tube frames with Matthews hollywood corners and quick reversing ears. Square tubing, I recommend, is the best quality for 6'/8'/12' frames for a rigid frame. MSE catalog site http://www.msegrip.com/mse.php?show=email

Also check out Modern's suction cups and speedrail hood mounts/door mounts. for the mounting hardware, I recommend you'll need a real grip. But the suction cups are great for small DV cams and small lights. http://www.modernstudio.com/pages/1/index.htm

This may sound excessive, but its good to know: If you need more power, you can put a boat battery with a bigger power inverter in the trunk of the car. These can go up to 3000 watts. Its expensive, but a gem to own. If you need this, get someone who knows how to do it to rig it properly. There are marine inverters too, with salt/air/water protection. Then, you can rig lights inside or outside the car without a camera insert/process trailer.

Got it! I despise luann... but we got the sintra, thanks!

Anybody know where I can buy Sintra 4'x8' sheets in NYC? Maybe someone can recommend something else that's cheaper than sintra, but just as good. The cheapest stuff I use is masonite. Any ideas? Thanks...

It seems to me that it could be more appropriate to shoot the whole thing on greenscreen. But if you must have the 10' light tube, you'll have to build a frame and wrap it with some diffusion. Or get the perfect thin, frosted/white plastic. Weigh it down on a doorway dolly or similar and push it on dolly track. If you build a tube like this for just a few shots, you'll have to keep the light rigging light-weight, or just not top heavy. We've built many strips of lights that are globes on battin, but the halogens can cause fires rigged on wood, and electric shock on metal. Do that one safely.

I've been a grip for six years. I did a lot of free b's at first. You're going to have to work for free, independently. Also, working in a BIG rental shop helps you get the equipment skills and work hook-ups too. But you'll have to earn the knowledge. Some unions allow apprentices. You should read the grip handbook and maybe the set technician's handbook, too. Good luck.

Thank you Michael. And, no pictures of that sunroof rig. But, any key grip can make it happen. I'd say there are several possibilities for a easy and safe rig on the roof of a car. Low Budget option would be to ratchet strap a light on a pancake onto the roof. As far as the tape thing goes- i can't stand it. But generally, we'll start shoving shims or camera wedges into the crevices and tape or clip to those. Rigging upwards off of a pigeon on a pancake on the floor works wonders too.