Canney

Yeah you can also get flicker with the picture to. And sharpness and parts of the picture might not come out.

Alright I did the crazy vacum cleaner and velvet wipe on the 50 feer of the film and it got most of the dust off the film with out damaging it. I'm going to try velvet and isopropyll on another 50 foot section. I'll post back when I do and see if I can get some before and after pics on here.

www.cinelab.com I've used them for processing and they are pretty good. As far as telecine quality I don't know, but I think they'd be pretty good and I have been to their facilites in person. Pretty nice place they have and the got a good operation there.

Yeah I should just play around with the focus, color and whitebalance and gama and do the transfer multiple times and take the best portions of each for the different settings. I think thats what I'll do for now cause I am debating wether or not I should get the transfer done at a proper facility with the proper equipment. I'm just reluctant to pay out the money.

I'll see if I can find a pure 100% Isopropyll solutuion or some methanol as u suggest. I got another question what If I just use the velvet dry on the film? Think I'll scracth it or not. I've done velvet dry on 35mm still negs and it didn't scracth it and it took a lot of the dust off. Another idea I have (and am seriously thinking of doing) is most of the dust on my film are large pieces that were blown on during projection and tend to move around. I was think of puting some cotton or velvet padding on the ends of vacum cleaner attatchment and put this on a small almost sealed box. Then I would run the film through this and get dust off that way. I think the dust would come off. I often use a similar method when I'm doing a projection to keep dust from getting in the projector and stuck in the film gate. The dust on the film I have isn't embedded in so I don't need to soften the emulsion and it should just wipe off. I think. This is a new subject for me cause I am actually a Video editor, not a film guy. I was given a bunch of film to telecine to video. Not a problem for me usually, but when the film is dirty as hell you got learn new things and figure out how to clean it.

I guess all I can really say is you got to keep up with inflation and the times.

A type of film I am looking for specifically, I have seen it before somewhere but its a 800asa speed color negative film for super 8mm format.

Hey can some one give some links to any film stock avaible for S8mm that is not made by kodak. I'm looking for both color negatives and color reversal films.

Actually you can use HD DVD's on any apple computer. But the only thing is you feature in 16:9 or 4:3. If it 4:3 you sould do the SD transfer but if its 16:9 go for the HD. I suggest this cause of the whole ratio native format thing. But HD compared to SD does look better yes.

I could have sworn I have seen this film offered somewhere for S8 for $35.00 with processing somewhere. I think I'll have to look again. As for 16mm the cheapest I have seen it for was $84 for 100' and that had processing too. I'll look around and post back in a couple days when I find the site again. Yeah kodak should put 100D in S8 format. I think more people would but kodak's S8 color reversal film if there was more than one option available.

Test it definetlly. I have found old ektacrhome to have runny color, usually in the reds for me and sometimes grainny. I usually filter it out throught telecine whitebalancing. But yeah test a roll for sure.

I do metal work a lot and make jewlery and the price of silver and solid substance materials has gone up. Kodak hasn't really raised its prices on film for a few years now and I guess its time for them to do so. You can only eat something for so long until you eventually go into the red. They probably need to do this to stay a float in the increasingly digital world. When you also look at Kodak's stock pricess it was like $100 a share in 1998 and nowerdays it around $25 dollars a share I believe. You got like two things contributing to the price hike. The increasing number of people buying and using digital and HD equipment and cameras. Then the raw materials increase. The average consumer just doesn't go for film nowerdays like they used to and a lot of motion pictures are now shoot with digital HD equipment. Expensive Digital electronics have caught up to film in terms of quality. But think of the advent of home video versus home film in the 1980's. Quicker and instant and a lot more space to record on. So who cares if film has a lot better quality is the attitude a lot of people have, they just want their photos and videos on demand, instantly like that regardless there of. I am just glad they aren't hicking motion picture film up that much. 3-5% I could deal with that in my Super 8mm world.

I have used Cine Labs in Mass. and been to their facilites in Fall River. They are pretty big and can handel a lot of tasks. They processed my tri-x and 200t very well actually. www.cinelab.com

I use Isopropyll alcohol for cleaning all my electronic equipments but I used it water downed solution to 50% Isopropyll and 50% Distilled water. The strongest solution I got and usually buy is 70% Isopropyll and 30% inactive igredient water. Do I need like a solution stronger than 70% or will that due? Velvet cleaning cloths and Isopropyll are two things I have plenty off and usually use to clean LP records. I have about 150 feet of S8 film, 7min 30 seconds worth of footage that I don't care about and is what I use for test footage usually. I'll try cleaning it with the isopropyll and see but I'll wait till a day till I find out about the solution percentage.

Hey I am going to be telecineing some S8mm myself. But what I need is some info on how I should clean the film myself. Like are there any special chemicals I need or should I just use some distilled water to get the dust off?

Well walmart sends its send out film to fuji in arizona and fuji then sends it to dwanes. Now dwanes was goign to strat proccess E-6 as soon as it became available. I am going to have to do some asking around then to find out if they proccess it yet.

Hey where do u guys go to get this stuff proccessed. I heard dwanes at www.k14movies.com does it but I am not sure if they have started up their processes yet. I am looking for a good cheap price as to where I can get some proccessed.

HD acts more like film does in post production and picks up more resolution of the film and picture quality and color than SD ever could. But film converted to HD down converted to SD looks better than film converted directly to SD. This of course is my opinion developed thorugh work experience. Yet If your strapped for cash and are going to do the final to SD anyways might ass well go for SD from the get go.

Okay heres the deal. I am using a bell and howell directors series projector to show super 8mm kodachrome films onto a heavy blank white paper projection screen at 24fps. I am then shooting the image with a sony HVR-Z1U camera in HDV-PAL at 1/25 shutter speed. This eliminates the shutter flicker and maintians image motion fairly well. The problem I am haveing is getting the sharpness on the image to come out to what I would like along with the color to a saturated level. I was wondering if any one could tell me some pictures settings for the camera. As I have been playing around with them and various combonations seems to work better. I was wondering if some one has already done the figuring out work on this already or if someone has and suggestions as to how I can improve it. Pretty much I found that turning up the color sensor on the camera works well but I was wondering if there is anything else I should do.

Wonderful quality on those pictures. I can't wait to get around and film something with my HVR-z1u. Oh yeah I have done a candelight scene before and the key is to use real candels and a lot of them. If you don't want to have like five or six candels next to the person in the shot what you want to do is put them on either side of the camera. It should give you the light you need. Plus when using candel light you have to do it with like no sunlight at all comming into the shot or it will drown the candel light out. Also if you want to get really drastic you might want to turn off all your studio lights and use a couple candles in exchange per light. But the numbers of candels you use should depend on what is the minimum amount of light you need to get a decnet picture quality. Also make sure that when you line up the candels that it is in a line.

I never cared much for the DVX-100s. They didn't impress me that much picture quality wise. The HVR-Z1U is a native 16:9 camera and it's pictures has the ability to do pan and scans in post production to a high degree. Also HDV acts a lot like film converted to video in post production in terms of color and gama. The only draw back to HDV is that it is a bit slower in terms of render time and it takes a while to render it out in post but the picture quality I got from the HVR-z1u beats the pants off the picture from my friends DVX-100. Get the HD-camera and set yourself up for the HD world of the future. I use the HVR-Z1U myself.

I wouldn't go with the HDR-FX1e. That camera is kind of a stripped down and the PD-170 and DVX-100 give you way more proffesional options in terms of audio. The PD-170 can also film with very little light and can maintian a good grain in picture with very little noise under low light. If your going to be using your camera with film I would say the get DVX-100 because it can shoot true 24p. My camera of choice would be the PD-170 personally. But yeah you should look around more.

Almost forgot I got a canon ct-20 titlemaker, a canon vc-20 camera and vt-20 tuner plugged in to the mix. Ohh yeah I was going to use these decks to make additional copies of multicam shots while were were shooting them. So I could give them out to various people and not have to wait and make multiple copies from one tape. Which I can do but I would prefer it if the decks were fully functional.

Yeah I recently got this old 1983 canon VHD editing system for free. It consits of two canon vr-20a's and a canon ve-10a for a controller. It playback and does everything fine except for this. It will do a play back fast forward search and rewind but when I stop the thing, and try to do the type of rewind and fastforward that does not play back a picture it makes like it going to go, make a whiring sound and then stops. This happens with both decks even when the controller isn't plugged in. Is there like anything I can do like oil something that might have gotten stuck form a long period of inactivity.

I had the same issue with a brand new sony pd-170 right out of the box. It turns out the type of tape was defective. There would be a major time code break or digital drop out at the start or recording and at the end. It was the sony dv-excellence without the chip tape. The one that comes in the purple package. Anyways I figured my luck wasn't that bad but when I used other types of tape it worked fine. I then took the tape and tried it in another camera and had not problems and after many stops and starts baboom I had the same problem appear. The pd-170 was just a bit more sensitive. So it was the tape that was the issue. I also had bought a bunch of it from several different stores across the state of MA. So I had to exchange it through sony which they cheated me on (not to go into some off topic story). But Yeah it was the type of tape just was not good.