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Sean Charlesworth

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About Sean Charlesworth

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  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
  • My Gear
    ARRI S
  • Specialties
    ARRI S - 3D Modeling - 3D Printing - Old Manuals - Fixing of Things

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.charlesworth-dynamics.com

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  1. Yes - the red arrow should be a spring loaded port for Chronosynth I/8 - it's probably better to just disassemble the gear so the shaft can be cleaned as well. I have never seen a mag with the gears greased. I would remove each gear, clean the shafts and lightly oil.
  2. Here's the original manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nOPDo63VvwE9dk9zVXQ1mvPxIYpz54mh/view?usp=sharing
  3. If the motor is truly seized, it's either the bearings or it was dropped and the inching knob and/or shaft is bent. If the barrel won't turn, it was probably dropped and damaged the housing. If the motor runs but the camera doesn't it's probably the rubber coupling which tends to deform and dry rot - I have replacement kits for those. If anyone needs any parts, I have just about everything. Sean
  4. I stumbled upon this today and thought it was pretty cool. An Arri 16S prototype. Even has a letter from Arriflex as verification. I know Tim will enjoy this: Sean
  5. I have two, new Tobin TM-23 variable speed motors for the Arri S or M for sale. I was buying these when I could because I was rebuilding some Arri S's but have no need for them now. For those of you not familiar, they are designed to run forward and reverse on 12V for 0-50fps. They can also be used at 8V for about 35fps. Be aware that if you are using mags with the Arri S, you cannot use them at 12V without modification. So, if you were to use this motor with an unmodified mag, you must use it at 8V for a max of 35fps. Price is $360, which includes shipping via USPS priority. Will take payment via PayPal. Feel free to check out my eBay feedback.
  6. I have had pretty good success with repainting cameras here at NYU. We have a sandblaster which makes getting the old paint off pretty easy but you could probably use some type of stripper. Anyway I have been using Krylon Wrinkle Finish (#3370) which is used a lot on cars and motorcycles. It's pretty much identical to the Arri S finish. You have to spray it on really thick and it wrinkles as it dries. Heating it helps the wrinkle process but since I don't have a way to truly bake the parts, I 'baked' them under two 1K lights for most of the day and that worked well. It's not as good as the Arri paint job but has held up surprisingly well under student use. The only problem I ran into is where they engraved the camera after painting. I chose to mask those areas and paint them with standard paint, not perfect but as good as it gets. Hope that helps, Sean
  7. After collecting used/broken camera parts for 4+ years I decided to do something with them. Currently only have earrings, but may start doing other stuff as well. Have some stuff made from SR2 & SR3 parts, but mainly from 35mm SLR parts. Check it: Sprocket Holes Shop Sean
  8. I still have some kits available and will make more if anyone is interested. Sean
  9. These are repair kits for the Arri S that I have developed during my 3 years as camera repair tech at New York University. We have 90+ Arri S cameras that I maintain and rebuild. Since Arri has discontinued most of the parts, I am constantly trying to figure out how to keep the cameras running. The kits are the result of lots of research, trial and error and have been proven to work in the field under the most punishing of conditions: at the hands of our beginning film students. I would not offer these for sale if I was not 100% sure that they work. When I was a student, I bought an Arri S because they are built like a tank, versatile and, most importantly, cheap. But I ran into problems when I needed maintenance or repair and couldn't afford it. I designed these kits to specifically help out students and beginners to keep their cameras running at a reasonable price. I love the Arri S and want to see them around for a long time and hope these kits help. If these do well, I plan on making more kits and how-to's. I made the instructions as clear and down-to-earth as possible so that anyone with halfway decent mechanical skills should be able to handle it. Each kit comes with full-color step-by-step illustrations and some come with special tools. Motor Coupler Replacement Kit $50 Replacement kit for the rubber coupler which connects the motor to the movement. Over time they stretch out or get dry rot and start slipping. If yours look like any of these it probably needs replaced: Kit includes: coupler, retaining clips, rubber pad for protection during assembly, modified spanner bit for coupler nut, and full-color instructions. Tools needed are: small slotted screwdriver, channel locks or large pliers, small needle nose pliers, 1/4" bit driver, preferably t-handle style. Disassembly is minimal and installation is pretty straight forward. The instructions are for cameras that have the coupler unit attached directly to the gear plate, usually serial numbers under 12,001. If unsure, remove the motor and look in the port to confirm if the coupler unit is attached to the back of the gear plate. For those of you with repair experience, this kit also works for units above 12,000, with the coupler unit attached to the movement. For the novices out there, the newer style coupler is a more involved repair requiring removal of the movement and is not currently covered by the instructions, thus I don't recommend this kit for you. Brake Pad Replacement Kit $10 This is a replacement for the brake pad on the feed side that prevents the film from unspooling when the camera is stopped. If yours looks like this, it should be replaced or your film might snap or bunch up. Kit includes: replacement pad, full color instructions Tools needed: small slotted screwdriver, x-acto knife, super glue Very easy installation. Eyecup Upgrade Kit - $15 washer only - $25 washer and modified spanner This is for the old style diopter with the lever locks, works with those with a door as well: This diopter is perfectly fine and way easier to maintain than the new-style but the eyecups are no longer available. The new-style eyecup used on the SR II, etc. won't fit right with the existing hardware and this kit addresses that. I currently don't have any eyecups but you can get them from Arri for $28, part # K5.24498.0. Kit includes: fiber washer that allows new-style eyecup to be used on old-style diopter, rubber pad for protection during disassembly (not pictured), modified adjustable spanner (style used for removing watch backs - optional item), full color instructions If you don't have a slotted spanner, I highly recommend purchasing the optional tool. Using the wrong tool makes it pretty easy to slip and scratch the rear element or mess up the nut. If retaining nut for eyecup comes off easily this is a breeze. If it's stubborn, it gets a little more involved but not too bad. Free shipping on all kits in the U.S.. Shipping rates outside the country will vary. I except payment by PayPal or money order. Email arri.sos@gmail.com with your order or questions. If paying by PayPal make sure to give me that email address if different from your forum address. Finally, some background on myself, so you know I'm not a shmoe. I have been the Camera Repair Tech at NYU for the last 3 years, before that I worked in the NYU Production Center for 2 years, overseeing check in/out of rigs and providing training on all the equipment. Before that I ran the equipment room and taught introductory film production for 3 years at Penn State University. I never had a lot of cash, like helping people out and still love old equipment, which are all reasons why I started making these kits. Disclaimer: I cannot be held responsible for any damage you may do while attempting a repair. While the instructions are clear and most of these repairs are fairly simple, undertake them at your own risk. If you are not completely satisfied with a repair kit, return complete kit within 30 days and I will refund your money.
  10. This would be Arridocs.zip which has: '59 S catalog '75 S/M catalog '81 S price list APEC tech sheet Mag instructions Time lapse manual Universal motor blue print
  11. I should have explained better. I was just saying that there is the large cylinder attached to the normal-looking part of the motor and the inching knob came out the back of the large cylinder. Voila... a picutre.... I feel like I've seen this before I just can't remember where. Thanks Tim PS - did you get those scans I sent you OK?
  12. Don't have a picture but have seen an S motor that looks normal at the front, but is very long and has a larger diameter silver cylinder on the back with inching knob. What is this one? Have not found in my catalogs. Sean
  13. Some suggestions: chip charts (color seperation and grayscale charts) changing bag light meter - DP should have one but if you want a complete package... Filters: ND6, ND9, polarizer, 85, Clear filter for each lens to protect it. If you have extra cash: ND3, 80A, Haze, lo con, diffusion, 85ND6, 85ND9 slate tripod baby legs or hi-hat A matte box with 4x4 filters would be ideal but more expensive than screw on filters. Many matte boxes will take 3x3 or 4x4, so you could buy 3x3 to save a buck but when you rent filters it will be 4x4 since 3x3 is impossible to find. If you go that route make sure box takes both. As Mike said, if going with screw on/clamp on filters, pick the size needed for largest diameter lens and then get step down rings to fit other lenses. You may need to use a clamp on filter holder if some lenses aren't threaded in front. I usually buy Tiffen, but there are others out there.
  14. Will keep you posted. I have a few catalogs ranging form the 50's to 80's and could find no mention of it. I'm going to call Arri to see if they have any info just for the heck of it. It's a great motor, runs great.
  15. It is an Arri motor, I too have never seen one. Here's some pix. The doc no on it is 'A 16 HME-00-00' and the sn is 405 Guts: Sean
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