Richardson Leao

Hi again, first I would like to thank the forum-ers very much for the valuable help they are providing me. I have another little problem (again, all related to 16mm), I have started filming in Orwo NP7 double perf, then for some scenes, I used kodak double-x (single perf).. Can I splice the double with the single perforation films together prior to telecine? Does anyone think that the telecine places would mind? Many thanks.

hi, if I get a mini dv tape from the telecine lab and i wanna then put in the computer to edit it, can I use my normal DV camera to playback/import the DV? Cheers. ricchard

Hi all, would anyone know cheap telecine places in australia (does not need to be ultra pristine, but reasonable) ? many thanks.

thanks for the suggestion, but I was thinking about some unpredictability and some 'color spills' for example, half frame colored half BW. What happen to a c41 negative in BW developer? do I have to use 37C if I use a BW developer? I understand that C41 developer has the dye coupler and if I develop it in a BW developer, I'll get a dye cloud over the image, is it right? So, if I develop the whole film in BW developer (e.g. D19), than immerse half of it in a C41 developer (for a short time) then bleah and fix, would it work? Any suggestions are more than welcome.

i don't believe you'll ever regret of owning a K3.

Hi, I am thinking about a change of pace in my new film project and the film, initialy in BW, becomes color after a transformation of the main character. Anyway, I want the part thet he is strugling with his new persona... to have color and BW at different levels, I mean, having random color/BW shots. I remember that when I first tried to develop 16mm negatives using c41 (instead of ECN-ii), some of the rolls become with very poor color, nearly bw. I would love to repeat it but I have no idea where to start: So, to simplify, the main question, how to make a color negative BW? Is the developer time (or temperature)? Is the bleach time? Any suggestions? many thanks

I have a kinor 16 that Olexandr modified and I simply love it. Simple, quite, very, very reliable. Never seen a bolex but I guess I found the last 16mm camera i'll ever have.

Hi all, would anyone have any experience with colorlab? I am thinking about sending them my negatives to process and have them telecined there. Many thanks

Thanks for the replies, but would be possible to have a standard definition transfered to film? I mean, would it be really noticable in practical terms?

Hi all, I am facing some tough decisions regarding a new project. I have 16mm regular negatives and I wanna bypass the positive process. Anyway, after browsing for telecines around I've got the option of standard def and high-definition. Also compressed/uncompressed. I use cinerella to edit standard video and I know the program can handle HD. My question is, what would be the advantages and disadventages of having the video in HD. I may want in future to have prints out of the digital copy. Again, thanks all for the expertise. Many thanks richard

Hi all, I have no practice with comercial transfer but I wanna shoot a 16mm (regular) film and I thought in having no positives but the negative telecined. My question is: is it possible? Also, do I get an inverted DV from it? And finally, would anyone recommend a cheap and good place? Many many thanks

Hi Dave, Thanks dfor the attention. I didn't have time to do a very helpful page but you can find the program and a short explanation at the end of my page: http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/

Hi all, that may sound dumb, but I currently only have 30m magazines for my kinor, so, when I get a 120m roll (DOUBLE PERF!!!), I generally re-roll it in a daylight spool and then place in the magazine. This way, the end of the film roll will be the first part of the film to be used. As I never sent stuff to the lab, i didn't worry about it so far, but now I want to send the film to the lab and I just realised that the keycode will be inverted. So, I have a number of questions: 1. When the lab return the negatives spliced, will they be spliced according to the sequence I sent? I mean, will the end of what I filmed the end of the wheel? 2. Would a negative cutter be able to do the job if the keycodes are inverted and on the wrong side of the film? many thanks

I have a lomo tank and a G3. for 16mm both uses 1lt of chemicals. For BW reversal, the costs of chemicals for 3.8L would be ~40USD (all of them). I use kodak d-19 and I bought K dichromate/ Na sulphite / sulfuric acid/ directelly from a chem store. With 1L I can process ~12 rolls of 100ft on the G3 and more than 20 times on the lomo. The lomo only takes 5ft each time with 1L. So basically, you would be spending around 40USD for 50 rolls of reversal. As for e6, i bought a tetenal 5L kit (78E): http://www.digit-photo.com/Chimie_couleur-...PRTE102050.html didn't use it yet though. If you wanna try also, Olexandr: www.geocites.com/russiancamera/ sells BW kits for reversal. very nice kits (bought 2 from him) and also color. He also use to have color kits, tank and a film drier. with the lomo tank, i dry the film in a 37C incubator without removing it from the spiral. if you don't have an incubator, a box with a lampp would do. Also, as david said, the amount of experiments you can do using a lab is quite limited while w a tank you can do anything you want.

Hi all, I was finally able to finish a little wireless device that starts and stop sound recording in a laptop when my kinor sends the pilot signal. The idea is as follow: the camera sends a square pulse when you start filming. It's a 10V pulse of some duration. This triggers a 5V (with a 100Ohm resistance in series) relay. I bought a remote control car in ebay that costed ~15$. The car itself run with 4AA batteries (this is very important as it gives a 5V output, so it can be connected to the computer straight way).emote worked with a 9V battery (the voltage of the remote does not matter as it is isolated from the camera). Well, now the idea is simple, the switch of the releay 'switches' the remote control that in turn causes one of the output of the receiver circuit (the circuit from the car) to outputs 5V. This 5V output is connected to the parallel port of a laptop. I did a small program in Linux that records all the time LPT1 (parallel port) gives a certain byte (1). And stop recording when the value changes (to 2). I will be able to provide better instructions and the program on my website soon, but I thought about posting it just to cause some brainstorming in other people.

thanks for the remarks... i actually used one of those transfer boxes. this s8 thing is merely a hobby and unfortunately i don't have enough money to spare. but I hope to be able to have the chance to use prof telecine on my next project. again, thanks for the patience.

i tried recentely and I have to say, it looks like 16mm. Because I was doing the rest of the footage using old soviet film, I could not use the plus-x because it just looked too good...

Hi all, I have used for the first time FOMA DS-8 and I loved the results. Very easy to process and very pretty pics. If anyone is interested to see the results check the last film on my website: http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/ I bought the film from jandc photo. Another idea I had (posted that before) is if you don't have a ds8 camera is to buy reloadable s8 cartridges, a film spliter, split the film in a changing bag and load 2 s8 cartridges. cheers

btw, if you wanna buy film in england: www.widescreen-centre.co.uk

Dear all, I am thinking in shooting (and developing) w/ double-x kodak negative B&W. My question regards developing, would a high-contrast developer (in this case Kodak D-19 - maybe 5-6min at 24C) and a ilford hardner/fixer do? Or this film also have the hell-jet (carbon layer). many thanks.

Hej Tomas, i made a small program in linux that reads the parallel port and start recording sound when it receives the starting pulse from the camera pilot and stops when the pulse comes up again. there's a trick though with the voltages though. the kinor gives 10V and thhis would blow up the parallel port. I then bought a cheap remote control car on ebay and use the radio controler to make the camera/laptop transmission wireless. I can send you all the specs if you want. It does not require major knowledge (just some) in electronics. I am now trying to make the computer also to record the oscillatory output of the camera (that tells the frame rate). With that I can adjust the sound accordingly to the frame rate. Hej da.

Hi, in my opinion, the best value for money you would get is a kinor 16CX-2m. I bought one in ebay for 450USD (+170USD shipping), send the motor to Ukraine to be modified to multi-speed for another 150EUR. For my usage, the noise level of the camera is quite low and I don't really need hard sync, so I use the original pilot signal from the camera and a laptop to record sound. You can have the kinor also modified with a crystal sinc: http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/16m...kinor-motor.htm The guy that modified my camera is very nice to deal with (Olexandr) and I am sure many people in this forum had the chance to do some pleasant business w/ him, he also made the website above and you can find his email there. He can also find sellers for this camera if you can't find one in ebay (maybe buying through him would save you some money as the motor can be modified before sending it to you and the camera can also be serviced prior shiping).

Hi all, in your experience, in which lab processing was the cheapest cents/ft ratio? It would also be nice to know the actual cost. Many many thanks. richard

i particularly liked the effect of light in half of the emulsion. i did it with tri-x and developed myself, so no lab costs, but i thought it was quite cool to se the random effects of the light. But again, i like experimental stuff a lot. Maybe, if you are up to it, get a C41 kit and develop some stripes to see before sending it to the lab.

i know i should keep the forum on the hash pipe line but if there's any interest in DS8, I bought a few FOMA DS8 rolls and developed them 'reversal' and I really like the results. If anyone has a DS8 camera, maybe it would be worth checking the Jandcphoto website. The rolls are very cheap. Another idea is to split the film in a dark room and load reloadable super8 cartridges (http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/super8/film_cartr_manual.htm). Reloadable cartridges are very nice and because of the metal plate they produce pictres steadier than disposable ones.