JD Hartman

I completely agree with you on the Mole zips. Nothing wrong with re-building an older fixture and repainting the reflector surface with Mole paint. Why drag around a fabric soft box and have to assemble it and the speed ring onto a fixture? The Mole zip is up on a stand and doing it's job instantly. I've met DP's that had been in the business "forever", who were overjoyed when they learned that I had a couple of zips. One of their favorite tools.

Robert, if old lighting fixtures and company history interest you, this link might be interesting: http://www.klieglbros.com/

Thanks Robert. That is the kind of backround information I was looking for. I have seen some fixtures, listed as being made by Hollywood Scene, but they weren't labeled in any way. The odd thing was how strongly they resembled the older Bardwell equipment. I had incorrectly thought that Hollywood Scene Dock only made grip equipment.

Hal, I can see your point. But a dolly, a camera slider, or a jib arm built for more than just "experimental" filmmaking, won't be made from EMT and a discarded knife block. I'm sure the equipment you have built for youself reflects proper design and materials choices. Yes, I am within an hour of many rental houses in NYC and even closer to those in New Jersey. But a rental house would have to be much farther away before it would become more economical to build a doorway dolly instead of renting one for $100 per day. Those that wish to argue that point, probably don't realize the cost of the tubular steel for the frame, the wheels, bearings, steering tie rods, plywood, fasteners, etc. Not to mention the fabrication and welding skill and equipment needed.

You could hit the wall with a breakup pattern, foliage, blinds, etc., you could hit it with some colored light, you could move a piece of artwork into the background. This is the time to work with the set decorator/art department if there is one.

I've heard some negative comments about this companies grip equipment and I believe they currently are out of business. Did they ever manufacture any lighting equipment? I've seen a number of fixtures that were supposedly made by them and the only identifying feature was the "Hollywood" name cast into a locking knob. Otherwise than that, the fixture had all the characteristics of an old Bardwell & McAllister.

Why do some filmmakers feel the need to own everything they use? Even if a Matthews or American style dolly was mass produced and mass marketed, why own something that isn't going to used every day? Consider the space it takes up, the weight and then there is the track...you arent going to support a 16mm camera and operator on track made from 1/2" EMT. Rent it, use it, return it.

THE same question has been asked several times before. Try the search funchion.

If the outlet is 220vac and has three blades, you can't safely split it into into two 110vac lines. It has two current carrying conductor and a ground but no neutral. The NEC forbids the use of a ground as a current carrying conductor. Don't tell me that there are guys building adapters to split 220v dryer or range plugs into two 110 circuits. Without a neutral conductor, these things are inherently un-safe. Your 2.5 ballast should be able to run on 220 volts and probably has an auto-voltage detect. Check the specification plate, build a twistlock to bates adapter.

Look at the Matthews C stand survival kit. It's about as compact as you can get without resorting to folding kit stands. Instead of sandbags, get the water filled weight bags. Minimal addditional weight in your kit when empty.

This is probably a 6-30R, 240v 30amps. So if the HMI ballast will accept a 240vac input, you could build an adapter from a 6-30P cap and a 60A bates.

Many way to light a cyclorama, Sky pans, Fresnels, Cyc light, etc. I have a situation where I need light a temporary cyc. from above. The cyc. will be approximately 20 feet long and 10 feet high. Fixtures available to me are Fresnels, open face, broad lights. I can use the "blended Fresnels" technique for even lighting across its width, but how can I evenly light the cyc material from top to bottom? An evenly graduated scrim would seem to be the answer, but ND only exists in so many strengths. The Producing is not in favor renting any equipment.

Very nice example. Keeps the lights intact and outside the box, minimizing the trapped heat. I would not tear apart the Strand Nocturne lights as you are considering. It will create a safety issue.

The Strand page you provided a link, sums it up. The Nocturne has symmetric distribution of light, even from top to bottom. It could be termed a broadlight, like the Mole-Richardson 3211. The Coda has asymmetric distribution of light, the shape of the reflector will evenly light a cyclorama from top to bottom when hung above it. The answer is yes, the Nocturne could be used to build a large softbox. You could remove the hanging yoke to reduce the weight. Build your softbox, shaped similar to the Mole "chicken coop" ( see www.mole.com). I'd suggest using aluminum sheet or light gauge steel if you can spotweld. Mount the fixtures to the outside of the body and each shines through a rectangular hole. The diffusion material can be stapled over the open end of the softbox or you could make a slide in frame from sheetmetal to hold the diffusion. You'll have to figure out how to mount your softbox and how to ventilate the heat from the interior without spilling light all over.

It would help if you listed the name of the manufacturer and the model number of the fixture. Maybe post an image so we could get a better idea of what the reflector and bulbholder look like. By flood, do you mean a broadlight or a overhead cyc light?

Some good suggestions have been posted for improving your softbox. Think about painting the outside of your unit black to give it a more professional appearance. Wire nut aren't a good idea, too much chance of them eventually loosening and falling off. Use a crimped barrel connector instead. Rosco makes a number of reflective materials that could be used inside your box. Or Mole white reflector paint or even a white enamel paint.

Thanks, Robert. I'm familiar with B&M. Yes, their products do resemble Mole's in a big way. But it wasn't them or Ultralight. This company just made parts, but better than the "mole" originals.

Lost track of the company name and number. Small firm in Ca.,manufactures eggcrates for Mole zip's, makes scrim bags, stamps and forms replacement pebble reflectors for Mole nooks and zips. Maybe manufactures other items that I'm not familiar with. Cheaper than factory parts, better quality. Does this ring a bell with anyone? If it helps, I believe the owner or owners are Hispanic.

I'm not disagreeing with you Dave. The fact that I've found them on Matthews and Avenger heads confirms their usefulnes. I just don't understand or agree with the statement made that they are not meant for this application. I would like to see them enclosed by an floating outer shell to keep contaminants out of the races. But the alternative is cheap enough, just replace them when they get stiff. l have to gather up all the examples I can find and bring them into a bearing house for some "Over the counter advice". I'll post my findings.

Sorry, I don't understand your statement. Radial bearing support a load that is perpendicular to the axis of rotation, thrust bearing support loads parallel with axis of rotation. Isn't this is the case with a grip head? The handle is applying a compressive force to the two halves? The bearing is reducing the friction between the fixed and movable portions. How is a human going to apply more than 1000lbs of compressive force, deform or brinnel the rollers or thrust washer?

With a 1000lb load rating, I don't think anyone is going to be able to damage a thrust bearing assembly by overtightening. The threads in the cast handle will probably fail before the bearing does. Without an outer shield, they will eventually fail due to contaimination.

Can anyone explain why I find a variety materials used for the "friction disc" or magic washer (Matthews term), used between the fixed and the rotating sides of a grip head? In some rentals grip heads, it's aluminum or fibre. In Avenger heads, the disc is made of a rubber like material, probably neoprene. Aluminum is the material Matthews uses, but what about Norms, American Grip, MSE, Hollywood Scene Dock, Mole-Richardson? Is one material a better choice over another? I have to replace the disc in a pile of grip arms I bought and want to make the correct raw material choice.

I'd look at fixtures that use MR-16 bulbs. They will be small and won't seem out of place if they appear in the shot. Spot and flood bulbs in various wattages.

Are there any manufacturers on the East coast similar to Matthews, MSE, Modern or Norms. Not a retailer/supplier like Barbizon, but a company making their own line of grip equipment, flags, rags, stands, arms, grip heads, etc.

No, but I was expecting a realistic recreation of a time period in London. The scenic department did a great job with the overall look of the city and the buildings. I just saw it as another example where members of certain department(s) can spoil the illusion by their lack of knowledge.