Zachary Vex

I've seen those too, but that's not the one I'm talking about. It's quite specifically designed to use a still camera, not a video camera. But thanks so much for the link... I feel like I'm getting closer. Maybe someone at that company will recognize the piece of gear I saw before.

The one I saw used a PC, a still camera, and a projector movement or something similar that took individual shots of each frame. It didn't run in real time... it was the kind of thing you'd have to leave running overnight.

I came across a link to a manufacturer of a machine that combined a gentle 16mm projector movement with a hi-res digital still camera designed to photograph each frame and create a file that could be stored as a movie a couple of years ago. At least that is how I remember it... It's possible it was for 35mm negs, or maybe both. Has anyone heard of this? Has anyone seen the results?

Yes, I set it for 16mm (which gives the same results as Super16 on the DOFMaster application I've been using on my phone). Here's the problem, which I figured out is that the upper "FF" (Far Focus?) number is being truncated. On some settings it only truncates the last two digits, while on this setting it truncates all 3. FF should read 10.062, of course,

Dangit! I downloaded that app and it isn't working properly. For example, when I put in 10 feet as a focus distance, it puts the 10 by the FF mark instead of the middle. In this pic from the download page, that's not the case... You'll see that the numeral entered in the Focus window is 1.1, and the NF and FF distances are shown. When I enter 10 feet in the focus window, the FF is labeled 10! Very annoying. Plus, in order to update the focus distance, you have to click on the f-stop. Unhandy!

If you have an iPhone, bookmark this in it: http://iphone.dofmaster.com Also, other options for other devices: http://dofmaster.com

Thanks so much for replying. The problem is that everything on my Jib/dolly is Mitchell mount, and adding adapters just keeps increasing height. From what you've said, it sounds like the 150's counter-balance won't even adjust to lower ranges... am I reading you right? I've read that the O'Connor 50 has a proprietary ball size. Is this true, or some misunderstanding? Someone posted that it has a unique 110mm ball that won't fit a standard mount.

Anyone familiar with the O'Connor Model 150? I've got an LTR-54 that I'd like to mount on a jib with a Mitchell starter and it's got a Mitchell mount, making that head ideal in one way. Does it have any annoying limitations? I can't find a thing about it online.

NOBODY does lens/camera tests?

I don't have any information, but you may wish to peek at this: http://www.alangordon.com/s_MillikenDBM55Super16.html

Where can I find an explanation for how to perform a camera/lens test using a chart? My chart has line sets marked 26XFocal lengths through 84X Focal lengths.

What's the most reliable/reasonable source out there?

I was recently informed that there's a company in India that makes lights which have interchangeable accessories with Mole-Richardson products. Does anyone know the name of this manufacturer in India?

There's one on eBay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/Cine-Kodak-K-100-Turre...1QQcmdZViewItem Item number: 290197048015

I'm actually headed south to Anaheim for the NAMM show. Are all of the relevant stores north of LAX?

Would someone suggest a good rental/sales shop near LAX where I can get a couple of c-stands and sandbags quickly when I fly there in about 3 weeks? Thanks in advance!

I don't know if this helps in the least, but it's possible to shoot with a regular 8mm camera and project that film in a 16mm projector, or presumably print it. I've shot the first half of the roll with the camera upside down, then flipped the roll and run the camera right-side-up for the second half, which is a pretty interesting projection in 16mm, four frames on the screen, two going forward, two going backward in time.

Nice!

I have a Kodak K100 which has an exceedingly long wind (40 or more seconds at 24 fps), but typical windup cameras run for much less time. At 128fps, a camera that runs for 30 seconds at 24fps would last a mere 5.6 seconds.

Pixel Farm here in Minneapolis tells me that they can scan 2-perf, but that's expensive and slow... Are there options for 2-perf transfering out there, or will I have to do an inexpensive full-frame 35mm transfer to see what I want to have scanned (and deal with having two half-frames on the screen?)

Great, thanks!

Who does the quickest/cheapest re-celling? I've got two batteries that could use some attention.

Hmm. They cleaned up that one pretty quick, but there's still a Sachtler tripod listing with the same jpg image... 160166015379

He's baa-aaa-aaack! Ebay listing 130159959461 I keep reporting this hacker and he just re-appears every day or so.

Just a head's-up... listing number 200159700861 on eBay contains the following JPG image "instructions" to the buyer...