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Mark A. Rapp

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Everything posted by Mark A. Rapp

  1. Haha! :mellow: Doesn't work like that, does it? I suppose I'm going to have to re-read about hooking up a convoluted circuit and buy a bunch of connectors. Nothin's easy, is it?
  2. I have a Blackmagic 2.5K Cinema Camera. I want to connect a PC as a monitor, just for focus while shooting outside. The PC has a Thunderbolt and USB 3 ports. Can I just plug in from the camera via Thunderbolt, or will I need a certain program, or hardware to do it? I'm asking about the simplest, easiest method to do this. I'm not a tech sort of fellow. Thanks!
  3. Hi Christian, I just got my K3, so I've been doing a lot of research on the camera. I'd read here that you can push the pin up into the barrel and off-set it a millimeter or two so that the pin rests on the edge of the hole. Tell us if this works, or if you find another solution. Right now I'm only using the stock zoom, but I'm planning on buying some primes.
  4. ? Even f you got the camera for $100.00 you'd be paying at least $125 - and that's a conservative figure - for a Super conversion. This is converted already, in addition to the re-centered mount. I should have been more clear, but it would have added to the already voluminous word count. I wasn't asking opinion regarding the price; the price is right.
  5. Easy, fellas! Not all at once! I know: too much above. I've narrowed it down to two cameras. One has the viewfinder mask removed. The other does not list the viewfinder mask as having been removed, so I'm assuming it is intact. The price difference is negligible. Any opinions?
  6. 2 more questions: Will the lens re-centering mod allow full use of the stock zoom all the way down to 17mm? Will the viewfinder view be properly centered as well, regardless of viewable area, i.e., center of lens equal to center of viewfinder?
  7. I'm having a ton of fun shooting with my new Bell & Howell 240 ee. I'm gearing up to buy something like an Arriflex SR2 or 3 for an upcoming feature but in the meantime I'm interested in something small, all about run and gun, and most importantly, with a reflex viewfinder. This has led me to consideration of the affordable Krasnogorsk-3, converted to Super 16, with a re-centered lens. The package (package meaning camera only, apparently) runs about $230.00 USD shipped from Ukraine, sold on ebay. Which brings me to a few questions: Is this a good price for the camera? I have read about flashing and light leaks. Both issues seem to be common, which I assume to be a design flaw. I am not particularly interested in time-lapse photography, or single frame photography with this camera. Is the problem only when employing either of these methods? If I understand it correctly, it can be "cured?" with profuse taping. Is this only for time lapse/animation, or for motion shooting as well? It seems every single video of K-3 footage I see has flashes all over it. Literally. Every single one. Here's what it boils down to: I want to be able to shoot takes for as long as the camera operates on a wind, without having flashes or leaks wreck the take. Is it possible for the camera to do this? Does it require precautions? If so, what steps must I take to insure this? I've read an awful lot on the forum about the K-3. The above issues are addressed, but they don't seem to be geared for the uninitiated. This isn't a criticism, just an observation from an un-initiate, heh. I read through, and feel as though I've walked into a conversation already in progress. I've read that on an S16 converted K-3 the eyepiece cannot provide a faithful image to the new format frame due to prism issues. Would I be better served in keeping the original eyepiece and "dead reckoning" or having the mask removed completely, and completely guessing what my frame will be?
  8. Mark A. Rapp

    85B vs. 85

    Great answers, fellas. Many thanks. I feel a lot more confident getting out there with my little Bell & Howell 240 ee, minus the ee.
  9. Mark A. Rapp

    85B vs. 85

    One day I'll look back on all these simple questions with disgust, I know it... Anyway: So I'm shooting outside with tungsten film: 7293. Kodak writes that the EI bumps down from 200 to 125 when using an 85 orange filter. So, I dial the ASA on my Sekonic L-398 light meter to 125 and take a reading to manage the aperture. Do I take open up another 2/3 stop, or is that why I adjusted the EI to begin with? And... is the exposure index synonymous with ASA?
  10. Thank you, Gregg. Of course! I had no idea that the meter assumes a 180° shutter angle. If that was in the manual for the meter, I missed it.
  11. I just picked up a B&H 240 ee. Since I don't have any spare mercury batteries, I'm metering with a Sekonic L-398. Now, I'm not terribly versed in theory, but I do know the basics. Here's my quandary: The camera's shutter speed at 24 fps is 1/65. When I take a reading and index 1/65, it is a different value than the cine scale at 24 fps. Why? Which value should I use to set the aperture? Thanks!
  12. Robert, you are the man! And thanks, Mark. I appreciate the input; If I'd have known more about the camera I wouldn't have fed you bad information. Robert, I've never even heard of that process for shooting, flipping, processing and splitting. Pretty cool. Really cool, actually, except, does anyone still sell sell the film and execute that type of processing? Do you have any idea of the designation of the camera? I'd like to do some research on it.
  13. Mark, thanks for the reply. Here's another shot of the mounts. They're all the same size, and the viewfinder position does have the smaller mount inside. Anyone know why? Is it for a dedicated viewfinder attachment, or a lens adapter? So, in short: I'm pizzled and I can't shoot with this camera, correct? Also, I tried running single perf 16mm film through it. It freezes up soon after passing through the gate. Is that because there are two rows of sprockets?
  14. I bought an H16 for twenty dollars at a flea market. There is an issue, however. I believe that the turret plate is from an 8mm, due to the size of the lens mounts. Here are the lenses. The first one is not marked; it looks to be about 35mm. The second is a 6.5mm. Gate, lens mounts with measure and serial number: 16mm sprockets, body, detail on turret plate - you can see the retaining bolt has some spring peeking out (it doesnt mount flush to the plate) Is this the wrong lens turret? Did some jerk pull a switcheroo, haha!? If these are 8mm lenses, will they cover the 16mm field? In short, was this camera a production model or is it a Frankenstein. Can I shoot with it and get a full 16mm image? Will I need to replace the turret plate... and... and... and anything else. I think you all know what I'm asking here. I don't mind having a pretty piece to put on my bookshelf for $20, but I'd rather take it out and shoot with it. Any help from you Bolexperts would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  15. Thanks very much for the opinions and info, Phil.
  16. I am planning a feature shoot upcoming where I will be emulating a 1970s aesthetic, including a well-place lens flare here and there. I will be shooting with the Canon XH-A1S with a Letus and Nikon SLR lenses. My intention is to produce genuine lens flares and not to add them in post. Questions: 1. If I shoot directly into the sun, is the camera at risk through that many pieces of glass (Letus + Nikon lenses)? 2. Is the risk (if any) only a matter of duration of exposure to direct sunlight? If so, what is an acceptable duration? 3. If the camera is at risk, is there a solution whereby I can shoot into the sun and not turn the CCD into crispy junk? 4. Can I shoot "at" the sun, meaning, can I shoot safely in the general direction with the sun just off-screen? I would appreciate some learned advice! Thanks.
  17. Disregard - I found what I needed. You can lock/delete this post, Mod.
  18. I am looking for a link to a part list/assembly diagram for the XH-A1s. Anyone have one? i have done searches online but have not been able to locate such a link. I am trying to find out if the 72mm ring mount is an integral part of the lenshousing, or if it is a component and can be removed and replaced. My threads are stripped, and my UV filter is now a permanent unwanted addition. I see that there are screws right around the mount, but I am hesitant to start messing about and possibly complicate the matter.
  19. This sale is way over. Will the moderator please delete?
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