Dennis Kisilyov

A pause button or a stepping projector would allow for a parralel port relay to be attached (Drivers developed for Linux Coffee), If I were actually doing this, I'd do it on Linux, which is open enough to allow to mod Gimp and drivers for multi frame acquisition. Converting a set of still tiffs at 24fps into a single QT file is rather easy. And Gimp has been used in the motion picture industry for a while to do frame by fame polishing in sets. My biggest fear is flicker. Since the F-stop on a DSLR is auto controlled typically the lens will stop-down at somewhat different places. Also an inferior light source can - (a. burn the film) and (b. provide inconsistent exposure frame by frame.) The DSLR would run of the PICT bridge protocol, this way each frame would get dumped right into the machine, in lieu of using a flash card storage. Depending on the DSLR elected the pict bridge can also trip the shutter. So 1 frame step on the film via relay, 1 exposure on DSLR, Store Frame on HD - Advance frame on projector. That program loop can run as a simple script and will go through a 100ft day roll faster than manual loading/cutting and scanning with Cool scan or the like. P.S. Matt if you need any programming help with your project, let me know. I may be able to...

Here is a link to a M42 site listing most lenses. I have some they don't list, but they don't take my submissions. :-(. http://m42.povlab.org/ You can also convert the camera to PL mount. Or like Mr. James Westbrook adopt a OCT lens from a Konvas but it works only with a Bayonet Mount K-3 via Olex. Generaly I would stay away from anything really old and non-coated. Why do you need such a long lens anyway? It's 16mm crop, the vibration from the camera motor alone will make the picture unsteady. Plus I reckon you'll need lens support. I own a Granit-II from the KMZ factory it's a 80-200 lens that Du-All sold to someone for their K-3. I find it to be hard to use.

Steve Jobs _CAN_ afford bandwidth! - Unreal, they closed your website... Is it for this month only? ".Mac, share your pictures and movies.... just not with too many people at once... " Figures. And I rather enjoyed the two quicktime films you had posted.

Umm, I don't get it. How does this replace crystal sync? This seems like a simultaneous on/off switch for the camera and tape recorder. Which is not going to stay in sync if the tape recorder and camera are not crystal clocked. If they are crystal already, it makes it moot since a clapper/slate is the zero latency sync. Versus a switch which with analogue tape can have an up to 100ms lag/latency while either the camera or the tape get up to speed. Am I missing something? Thanks.

The Wratten original or Wratten2 ? That is weird I always thought multi-coated glass filters are superior to gelatin or resin.... Is it because they are so thin? Or do people prefer glass simply cuz they last longer.

Oh these are 100% fake, the photos are from a prior auction. Usu, they say e-mail me for a buy it now price, user is usu new and zero feedback or a hijacked account that was selling linens and crafts for $5USD and now is selling a 40k cine camera and mags. I don't know if they're fishing for accounts that can afford 20k bids, or what. I saw a nice one, you click on the listing and it forwards you to an alternative site with a ebay login screen. Tricked my Mozilla browser. Just upsets me that they're not willing to do anything about it. I think the high ticket categories like Cine Cams and Autos get hit the most with this stuff. Here is one more. In Pottery and Glass category - It's an ARRI 2C for 68.00 and they want you to send them an email :-). http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=190080586764

Why is it every week someone is selling a 40k camera for $1. :-(. Can't ebay do something.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=170078964684

Smashing Pumpkins does not work with the cutting :-(. Beautiful cinematography!!!

I think that tripod is sufficient to hold a Bolex. I use an even crappier photo tripod :-).

Nono, pause button. You'll grab stills of each frame with a DSLR - I don't think they make slide duplication units for new school digital cams. But the setup someone else posted for 7k is a slide duplicator bellows setup. I think for 35mm you'd need a 35mm lens not a 50mm prime though. Light has to pass through the negative always, and there is always a lens involved, even in Nikon Cool Scan.

Dude, get a M42 slide duplicator setup (cheap on ebay) a M42 to Canon EOS adapter, a 50mm prime lens. Grab a cheap 35mm projector with a pause button and a decent light. I would not suggest using negatives. P.S. Last time I checked Sprit Datacine did not have a reg pin either, (I may be very wrong about this.)

Hau-Jou Chiou, What material is that? Very sweet looking blimp BTW. Is it possible to post Mp3 of the camera running in the blimp?

This looks like 3perf 35mm.. Kodak Stock, just a guess..... If it's Super 16 - I would love to know what camera this was.

Record in the best resolution possible WAV, Compress them on your computer later for delivery. Don't use email for audio files. Most email servers will reject anything over 20Megs.

You want the bit rate for noisy "on-location" digital sound to be at least 24bits and should prob be 48khz (for DVD publishing) If you do any less, you'll have two problems. 1) Filtering out ambient noise at 44.1/16 CD quality is PAIN, Even with Sound Soap/ Protools DINR / Adobe Noise Reduction. 2) You'll have to up-sample/interpolate for DVD publishing and any serious audio POST. For far less money get a M-Audio, Edirol or Zoom even. They are capable of doing 24bit 48,000hz. I would not do any less for acoustic sound. Marantz is a good pro-sumer brand of equipment for Home A/V. I would go with something different for production. If you're looking at Marantz look at Fostex FR-2. Records 24bit up-to 192khz BWF Support. Take/Roll stamping. (e.g. Take 1 Scene 4 ) Auto Punch-in. Built in Peak Limiter if you don't have a good audio guy. Marantz is stuck at 16bit. That is bad for POST/EFX. P.S. Compressed audio specs are BS, You just need something with a good battery life and XLR jacks. P.P.S. Even though it has XLR jacks does not mean the mic pre-amp will be any good.

Daft Question, I was checking this section, but it seems none of these support SMPTE Timecode input? Maybee it can be added as a "clock" on the SPDIF in. Would that matter with a crystal sync unit? Or is crystal sync just for the camera motor, while sound get the clapper to sync with picture?

Get a multi track digital interface for your mac, and a firewire harddrive. Presonus makes really cheap interfaces where with Cubase/Logic you can record up-to 8 tracks at the same time, and monitor in the Mac Book/G5/Mac Pro. This way you don't have to mix on location, you can mix in post, Each MIC is mono, so 8 channels is like 4 stereo. So long as you don't apply any realtime efx during the recording and have a separate firewire hard drive thats fast enough for the rolls you can have 24bit 48khz per output in multitrack. P.S. hard drives make noise. Solid State is always better. Enough noise all ready on the set. Thanks.

Jay, I would seriously suggest using a video-tapped DSLR for animation, the resolutions are very acceptable. The caveats are that you have to find lenses that are all manual and the auto iris ones cause flicker (removable). Their shutters also break after a while. But this is a zero dollar - low cost - high accuracy (with onion skin type stuff solution for animation (either stop-mo or drawing tables). As far as shooting movies, get something you feel comfortable using. That will be your "good enough".

Very Cool. Will, thanks for the info. I think K-3 has it's unique properties that make it attractive. I'm surprised it has not become the Honda Civic of the cine camera world. I think the ultimate thing would be if someone posted the gear ratio instruction for installing a motor in the thing. I've just come up with a mod for it myself. - I took out the light meter stuff, and realized that the cavity It has for a battery is not very removable. However usable to install a digital frame counter. I plan on using a pedometer (00000 counter with a reset button) and a mag switch of the main gear (which travels 2 teeth for 1 frame exposed. Installing the pedometer in the hole on the side where the current ISO switch is. Removing the gastly lever footage counter (which is rendered useless by removing the plastic loop formers anyway...) This would also allow use of the K-2 100ft mags, which would make switching film a lot quicker. The coolest upgrade for this camera I think would be a Nikon mount. Nikons have a flange focal distance of 46.50 mm while Pentax is 45.65 / Practica 45.50. This means a Nikon mount can be installed in the front and all it has to do is move about 1mm forward from the film plane. (Canon is shorter - so, more problematic, Arri mount means expensive lenses). Why Nikon.... DSLR's have a smaller crop than 35mm film hence have 7mm lenses, yet interchange with old manual only mounts. Which would mean all the wide-angle stuff would become available for this camera at low f-stops.

I can only guess that this was for keeping the big cavity where the lens mount is free of elements, the tar is sticky (to this day...) so it collects dust and film particles. This way it does not end up in the exposed gear system. It may also be there to reduce vibration, but I doubt it, since the tar does not go beyond the aluminum gasket. Also there is WAX in the camera :-). In two places there are "Zenit" logo tamper evident wax. One on the baffle plate screw - right near the footage counter. One more on the lower right 4th screw holding the lens mount (under the aluminum K-3 badge.).

Okay, so what you're saying is the bracket is machined off from the left side and the prizm assembly is not altered? - I'm really curious from an engineering prospective what is done to enlarge the frame on the in the K-3 viewfinder. Optically the viewfinder tube can handle the enlargement in the mask, but it would not make sense to enlarge it on the left side only. The optics vignette/distort the image in the VF a whole lot already. I'm also now pondering if the magnification factor of the VF could be boosted, helps in focusing. P.S. Yes, Bernie is 100% cool! I'm in touch with him about his services.

Unless my Quicktime player is broken I felt it was a bit "too flickery" people may think it's a loss of quality more than an effect. Same with the scan-lines in the start.. My 2 cents. Great shots by the way!

A Huge amount of Schools and other .EDU style organizations (like Police Academies/Driving Instruction Places) may have a Singer Instaload XL on hand. They were used to project educational and instructional films. On ebay (though you mention you don't want to use this route) one could be had for about $50 USD.

Look inside each of your cameras, Mine has "roofing tar" applied to the inside of the front plate. As I see there are about 20 places in which I could go nuts with acoustic asphalt stickies. Main vibration sources are the transfer mechanism and speed control gear. It is very feasible with mechanism tuning and acoustic foam to drop -19dbV at 1ft range from the mechanics.

Is it possible to give small snips of this film to "dip-dunk" places for processing or does it have remjet backing to be washed off that my dip-dunk place would not be too happy about? Is it true E-6 or special E-6?