robert duke

Anytime I use the suction cup camera mounts I back them up with ratchet straps. In the rain the cup still holds but it can slip a little. But definitly back it up. For a hostess tray a floppy or frame of muslin works as a rain barrier for cast protection. I have some photos that I will dig out and try to post of a show where we mounted the camera in the rain on a hostess tray.

If you wanted to get fancy... get some T-nuts, threaded insert nuts that hammer or screw into wood. Get 2 threaded baby pins from Modern or Norms. Cinemagadgets.com This way you can unbolt the pins quickly and easily transforming it between your needs. the only caveat is that you want to replace the MDF with real plywood. It would only have to be 1/2 Birch. The MDF is Not very adept at point loading. you could even cut out all the unnessesary parts of the plywood to lighten the weight. you could even put multiple points for rigging on it. Have fun sounds like a cool little rig.

The larger the source of light the softer the light. The more frontal the light the flatter the light.

I bounced a 650 off a 4x4 solid. very little fill and just a hint of eye light.

I got caught with my pants down the other day and had to cut a gobo arm with my leatherman file. It took about 2 minutes of sawing to get through but...

typically the body mount is underneath the clothing so as to not be seen. even the doggiecam system is worn under the clothing.

use the extension cords to tie down the 12x12 frame. pawn the head phones for beer. break the 6x6 and use the insurance money for more beer.

the device was called a trico tap. it is not manufactured any longer. they are against the nec code.

On set I tend to use a circlular saw or a pipe cutter (if I have to be quiet about it). I buy the highest number teeth for the cheapest price. Every time I buy an expensive blade I it ends up breaking. $$$$ I dont even bother looking for a blade that cuts aluminum. the most teeth and the cheapest $. you ruin the blade but it cuts quick and smooth. For tricking out my speed rail set I use a horizontal band saw, just like Hal. you get a beautiful cut that only needs a little smoothing, but I do that at the shop.

sliders can bind and cause unwanted friction when the point of pressure is too far above the mitchell plate. try either putting the slider onthe bazooka, or apple boxing up the slider and just adding a 6" riser. I think the height is 1.5x the width of the slider tray ( the actual sliding mitchell plate) I get that you want to adjust height without rebuilding too much. but the slider on the bazooka is better.

I agree the velcro isnt the best idea as the velcro risks being in the shot. but Jon when was the last time you gelled a window. I use spray bottles all the time. squeegies are great even if you arent using soapy water. I have tried every technique from hairspray to watered down sprite, to spray mount. and have found the squeegie works for all of them.

If you can get some over/unders you can run double pipe to reduce the sag. If you can't get over/unders you can use swivel chessbourghs. Why not just rent 25ft of 12" box truss from a rental house? Genie stands are great for this application.

As a grip, Green screen. two platforms attached aren't too big a deal. a rail dolly attached to a fisher 10 is easy to do, down hill transitions however are.

I've worked with the intellajib. It is a pretty solid jib and I have put a panavision gold with a 400' mag on it with a oconnor 1030 head. It is a pretty solid jib. it is super easy to assemble and dismantle. It does feel like it shouldnt take the weight but it does with flying colors. I didnt care for the safety latches on the arm but they were really just backup. I dont think the intellajib would take a slider and a head and camera, but depending on the size of slider and camera... I used to own a EZFX jib. It was a pretty solid lightweight jib. It had a nice capacity and assembled super fast and easy. I know that it has been improved since I had mine, but for DV-to Small HD it is a wonderfull jib. I had put SR3 on it but that is about the same as a betacam. Has anyone used the jonyjib?

just home for the day... "the home machinist's handbook" Doug Briney Great read some starter projects.

I think I would prefer it.

Mini-mill.com Practicalmachinist.com metalworking.com www.lindsaybks.com www.homeshopmachinist.net www.lautard.com I dont have the books with me as I am on the road but will post them when I get home.

there used to be a "fine Machinist" and a "home Machinist" but I havent seen them in several years. I think they went the way of the dodo. Please let me know if you find them. I have been "teaching myself" for the last couple years. there are a couple good books, and a couple descent websites.

PM me for a guy who makes rags inexpensively. He is fast and fantastic. His prices beat everybody's.

Check out Rosebrand. you can purchase the raw materials from them. They have film fabrics. Scrims are a filter product. I think water filters.

This is the configuration I have. It has its ups and downs. Upsides: Cheaper to build. Cheaper to maintain. Cheaper to insure. you have a vehicle on location after dropping the trailer. you can have more storage than most 5tons, if built right. everything is already on carts Downsides: some producers just dont accept the idea of a trailer instead of a truck buy as big and heavy duty as you can afford or you run out of space and become overloaded. you are stuck with a big expensive truck to tow with fuel effieciency isnt the best everything is on carts. you have to spend money on a lot of wheels. theft is a real issue, almost more than a true grip truck. storaging the thing can be an issue. you have to be good at driving a trailer or you break things expensive to repair. breakdowns are more difficult when they happen. ( I broke an axle twice) High speed sway is a B***th. you can't go off road easily. some states enforce a 55mph towing speed. manuverability can be tricky and you dont fit in as many spaces as a truck, ( you are Longer than a truck) some states are hitting trailers for DOT inspections, go ahead and get a DOT # and CDL. Dont put logos on it as it just becomes a target for theives. Invest in good locks, even a Boot for the wheel. I recommend a three axle 5000lb axle, towed by at least a dodge 3500 ( the dodge has a bigger payload capacity and gets better mileage towing. If you have the cash buy a toter. custom order the trailer box extra high. The ramp is nice, I dont have a winch and dont really need it. the ramp is about as steep as a liftgate in loading position. you really have to pay attention to weight distrobution to prevent sway and overloading the hitch. Go with a gooseneck rather than a bumper pull, they handle better, bigger payloads, more manueverable. I sometimes wish I had bought a truck instead. good luck

No pole cats and autopoles aren't for long horizontal spans. they do work great for vertical spans because they can squeeze tight into a corner or a place a stand will not fit. Darryl, I got your PM as all plans of mice and men...

A wall spreader is a good option for this room. the paneling won't suffer as drywall would. Also you might look into a Sparrow plate or a Putty knife. you may be able to slide them behind the paneling. a Mathpole or Autopole is another good option. they can be snuck into a corner or used as a wall spreader.

any home medical supply shop. or buy one at a salvation army, thrift store.