robert duke

magnets and kino clips

you guys realize this argument has been going on for 5 years.

Try the ETC scorch four mini ellipsoidal. Its no exactly the same but focusable, has the same benefits as the Source 4. http://www.etcconnect.com/Products/Lighting-Fixtures/Source-Four/Source-Four-Mini/Features.aspx

you Can have a 4.5" head mounted permanently to the stand. Most top risers are 1 1/8" on combos, and a 4.5" grip head will drop on as a permanent top for the stand. however, a 4.5" head is usable elsewhere. It can be used to mount a frame to a process car or grid. It can be used in lowboys to arm out a Menace arm. They are a great way to convert Plate connectors to JR receivers.

D, the avenger stand is fine for an 8x8. many reasons to go above 14'? you never know is the Challenge to that question. Examples: diffusing raw sun through a second story window. diffusing sun over a tree branch. diffusing a light raised over a truck. bouncing a light because production won't rent a condor, the angle of the sun is just so that the frame has to be high to catch the light and be out of frame.i can go on. I found when i owned gear that a 2 riser combo stand was almost worthless. nothing is more demoralizing than raising a light on a stand and then having to exchange stands because you needed another foot out of the stand. 3 riser combos are mandatory on a grip truck.

It all depends on what you are doing. The higher the stand the beefed the stand most of the time. As your frames get bigger the beefier the better. wind can twist a smaller stand up pretty quick and its amazing the damage a singe fall can do to a stand. Three riser combos are pretty universal for smaller ( 6x, 8x) frames. Mombos are good for bigger frames (12x, 20x), much beefier stand that goes ~19ft. you can get wheels for them so they can convert to rolling stands. Mombos are more stable than Hi hi or hi rollers, bigger base, more weight. Mombos are also heavy and cumbersome.

The Best way I have found is to start by wrapping the 2 sheets when they are 4x8 as one unit using White gaffers tape or White Duct tape. Then using either a Skilsaw with a straight edge or a table saw Cut the individual sizes as needed. Finishing their edges with either tapes of you choosing. The saw makes for a really nice clean edge look. For nice durability use 1/2" Gator board in place of the foam core.

Matthews is a great company, Making great stuff. Their doorway dolly is an industry standard that is reliable and strong. Its pricey compared to moderns. I just saw that Norms is also making a roundy round dolly. I Had the Modern version and loved it. Sorry to have let it go. It was The right price and worked great. I haven't dealt with Modern since it changed hands. I will miss Seno. I hear Jiro is still there in the office. Lately I have been dealing with Sean @ Norms. He has been revamping the brand. Sean is Norms son. great guy and happy to deal with. His stuff is better than the old norms stuff. Give him a call. He'd be happy for the opportunity to gain a new user.

Modern Studio has one as well. I used to own the Modern version and loved it. I found it useful in tight spaces making turns around desks and other obstacles. I always just used the Skateboard trays with it as it was faster than switching wheels on the dolly. I have always preferred the skate wheels with all dollies but the chapmans. They smooth out most improprieties in the track. You shouldn't need to modify them (the portaglides) to use with the Matthews version. If you have the money buy the portaglides and then buy the modern 4wheel steer.

The Cargo bars are a different mechanism. They have a ratcheting mechanism instead of a compression fitting.

If you want to be an electrician put electrician on your resume, drop all the DOP credits. Few gaffers want to hire a DP as an electrician. This is also a business of who know you. Include DoPs you have worked for and the Gaffers. I will hire a guy who works with guys I know before an unknown.

Matthews and avenger and kupo have similar versions made for the display industry. It is just a basic compression fitting, similar to plumbing seals for pvc.

There will be some debate as there are a million and one ways to do this. The knot on the grid could be a bowline, figure 8 on a bight, or a clove with a backup. These three knots are effective as a safety tie ion place of a cable safety. The Kino body usually has two yellow wires where the backing platte is attached to the body. These are the safety tie places. If the kino doesn't have them, you can run the tie between the metal stiffener wire along the edge of the body and the body of the kino. It can be a tight fit in the open spots of the bends in the kino doors, but that will also work. IF that fails you can always Choke the body of the kino in line with the lamps. The knot attaching to the kino should be a bowline or figure 8 on a bight. There should be enough extra rope to allow focusing and some ability to move the fixture. take into account the total fall distance and where an average person's height would be in the fall zone. The object safetied shouldn't reach the average person should it fall. There are instances this cannot apply so use your best judgement. When using a safety rope/sash/cord, the breaking strength of the rope should be roughly 5-10 times the weight of the object safetied. That is the kinetic force/load (object falling) can be roughly 5-10 times the static load(object standing still).

Most people put the color on the front of the Chimera. Just using Binder clips or C47s on the lip of the Chimera. RagPlace has Color Diffusion, they can sew custom diffusion panels with color that velcro onto the Chimera.

You will find that all black materials will come off as grey at some point. There is not material that is absolutely black. Overlight and crush is probably your best answer. make sure your solid has no "repairs" and lay it out as smooth as possible.