Kristian Schumacher

I was wondering the same thing a while back and had someone (I think from this board) recommend this: Look through the viewfinder while aiming the lens at a TV screen. Adjust the shutter speed until the bars stop rolling, and you have 25 fps if you are in PAL country like you and I. Compare that to the reading on the dial to see if you are way off mark. This worked really well for me, and let me mark my dial for a more accurate reading. Good luck! Kristian

Thanks for that Bernie, I will try to shift the base a little and see if the problem goes away. Kristian

Hi all, I just received my new ACL and started testing it out. It has the fixed speed motor with a 25 fps crystal. The manual says to use a 12v battery. I didn´t have one, so I first ran it off a 7.4v Li-Po battery. It ran at 25 fps with no sync warning. But only a light push with my finger would get it to slow down and loose sync. So I hooked it up to two batteries, now giving 14.8v. Again it runs at sync, but can take a lot more resistance before loosing sync. So far, everything is fine. I then decided to run through some feet of exposed film to make sure everythihg is working over time. After a few minutes, the motor speeds up and the lamp comes on. Intermittently at first and then constantly. About double speed (?) When left to cool down, it works again like normal. Anyone know of this problem? I don´t want it to happen while shooting for real ...... Thanks, Kristian

Hi Ryan, Sorry, I completely missed this post for a few months... I had to take some photos off because of the very limiting ehhh.. limits on uploaded photos. I´ll see if I can find it again and make a tiny version of it for upload. Kristian

Yes, I think all the other people here are confused. I´m on the other hand completely with you, Thomas.... It is about humanoid robots. Thanks for clearing that one up. Kristian

Thanks Christoph! Do you have a link? Kristian

WOW!!!! Thanks for that. The quality of those (late 30´s?) photos is amazing! The best I have ever seen in colour.. Do you know where they are from? Some very much look like they have been the inspiration for several scenes from Quentin Tarantino`s last disaster (sorry... not the cinematography but the content......)

Hi, I sadly had to put my beautiful 2c up on ebay. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=330368492768 Please feel free to ask any questions here or by PM. Kristian

Thanks a bunch, John. I will give this a go. Maybe I can set it up with my canon 5d at 30 fps and a high shutter speed. I will try that first, as it is what I have at hand. Kristian

Thanks again, John. I will have a go at taking it apart (actually, I will have a go at my second, r16 K-3 first to practice:-) and try to lube/clean up any gunk that may cause the variation. Does anyone have an idea of how to check the evenness in exposures without spending the money on a test roll, dev and tc?? Just to see if the problem is solved or not? Thanks, Kristian

OOOpps.. Because of the compression on Vimeo, it doesn´t show at all.. Here it is again: http://www.kameraundervann.no/Flicker2.mov Kristian

Thanks to all of you, I really appreciate your input. Here is another clip, again at 48 fps, without the flare: http://vimeo.com/6943544 The camera has a two-bladed, non- adjustable shutter, so John´s explanation could make sense with grease or some other obstruction causing speed variations. I suppose that could be difficult to locate, tough...?

Thanks to both of you! I guess it could look like that - but it is quite constant. And if I go through the footage frame by frame, it is clear that the exposure fluctuates up and down exactly every frame.. i.e. one bright, one less bright and so on. It is also visible in footage where nothing is between the sunlight and the camera. I guess the pigeons flying in front of the sunlight makes it a little harder to tell apart. But have a look at the last second or so, and it should be quite clear. It is not very strong, but seems to be quite consistent throughout my 48 fps-. footage with that camera. Thanks again, Kristian

Hi everyone, I have been shooting a little 16mm now with two cameras, a K-3 and a Milliken high speed camera. I am seeing some flicker on some shots that were done in sunlight. It seems to be only on the footage from the K-3, and seems to be more apparent in highlight areas. It also seems more prominent at max speed, abour 48 fps. I just uploaded this short clip from my first test roll where the fluctuations in the backlit highlights is quite visible http://www.vimeo.com/6916558 Could anyone help me work out the cause of this? Any help appreciated :-) Kristian

Just put my 10mm up here if anyone is interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/S-16mm-Schneider-Cineg...id=p3286.c0.m14 Thanks for looking;-) Kristian

Hi Dan, Try contacting the guys at: http://www.hydroflex.com/ I think they rent, and they are probably the market leaders your side of the pond. Kristian

Sorry I completely missed your replies Bruce and Paul, I gave up on the Arritechnos and sold both on Ebay. I am concentrating on a 2c for my underwater rig now. They seem like fine cameras though, pin registered and all. My main problem was getting a lens mount on them that would let me use the lenses I choose. But I have heard from several people that have changed the mount on them and that are very happy. Hopefully the CA buyer of my 2 cameras will become one of them. Kristian

Hi Candi, I have tried a couple of different solutions, and ended up with li-Po batteries intended for RC model helicopters. For me it has been important to keep everything quite small in order to fit into an underwater housing. Four 7.4v batteries have no problem running the camera at full speed for at least 4-5 full 400ft rolls. My camera only does 300 fps after I converted it to s16, but that is not because of the battery ;-) Kristian

I shot one roll of normal pitch film on my Milliken recently with no problems. The camera is marked "use high speed .300 pitch film only". After converting this camera to s16 myself, it runs fine upto 300 fps. Any faster, and it starts chewing the film - but that is of course after removing claw and sprockets on the s16 side. So I guess although it is ideal to use the correct pitch film, it is not strictly necessary. Kristian

Thanks guys, My motor has a dial that goes from 1-9 at the bottom and no external controller. It looks identical to the motor in the above picture (model 35 cb) So this is not the high speed motor? The camera has the high speed gate and tachometer to 80fps. Kristian

Thanks for that Charlie, I will give it another go. I just don´t want to fry the thing ;-) So I will keep 32v in mind when I fire it up again. Kristian

Hi, I have played a little with my new 2c, and will hopefully do a high speed test soon. I tried hooking up the motor to a couple of different battery solutions. If I remember correctly, my last test was 30v which gave a reading a little over 50fps on the tachometer. So maybe 36v will give me top speed? Also, the adjustment dial on the motor doesn´t do that much. It will speed up and slow down a little depending on the setting, but I would really like to be able to adjust from say 24-25-ish all the way to 80 fps without changing to a different battery pack. Any ideas appreciated as always, Kristian

Any takers on this? It seems like there should be a simple fix, but I don´t get it...

Thanks Ed, Any idea how to remove this tag? Kristian

Hi all, I am sure this is just silly, but then most things in editing are - until you figure them out. I want to drop the 30p footage (5D) into a 25fps timeline, and keep all the frames - which should mean a 20% slowdown. I get jumpy footage, and when I have filmed a 10 second sequence of a stop watch, it stays 10 seconds in length. A dialog box pops up when I drop the footage in: "conform timeline to clip?" - and when I say "no" it seems to convert the footage instead. Could anyone tell me how I drop the footage in and use my 30p footage at 25fps - with a slight slow motion effect? Thanks for any help, Kristian