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Adam Brown

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About Adam Brown

  • Birthday 01/23/1987

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    Boston, MA

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  1. Bump. $3,300.00 USD, FREE CONUS Shipping! Definitely willing to entertain offers too.
  2. Hey everyone! I'm selling my Bartech BFD because I've had a slight career shift and my new work doesn't need the beefier setup of the BFD and M-One Motor. Everything is in used condition, but works great. I have lots of detailed photos and I'm happy to take specific photo requests if you have something you want to see in detail before buying. I'm including everything pictured (except the table or cyc wall). There's a lot in this kit, but I'll break it down as best as I can. Frankly, there's a few cables that came with the BFD when I bought it that I'd be unable to identify properly, but I've included the detailed pictures of all cables and connectors. Here's what's in the kit: Foam-Fitted Handheld Case An ORIGINAL printout, analog paper Manual with OEM staple. Bartech BFD Wireless Transmitter - Handheld Focus Puller (S/N T1.0154) Spare Markers for BFD BFD Hardwire Cable. 25' Cable connecting the Transmitter to the Receiver in case of signal loss or faulty connection. Works great on jibs or cranes. (Reference: Image B) Bartech BFD Wireless Receiver (S/N R1.0154) Horizontal and Vertical Mounts (15mm and 19mm) New Antenna (Not pictured; I lost the original plastic antenna cover, but ordered an entirely new OEM replacement antenna.) BFD Receiver Gimbal Mount - Hard-wire Remote Control for use on a Steadicam, Movi or Ronin. (Reference: Image A) M-One Motor (S/N M-1.0010) Six gears with varying pitches for different size lenses: 0.8m - 32P (2x), 0.5m, 48P, 0.4m - 64P, and 0.6m 15mm, 17mm and 19mm rod adapters for proper mounting fit Misc Hardware for Receiver Mount and replacement screws Additional Cable Assortment 3-Pin male to 3-Pin male LEMO long hardwire power extension cable (Looks to be about 10-15 feet long. I can confirm if you'd prefer, just let me know!) (Reference: Image H) 5-Pin male to 5-Pin male LEMO connector cable from receiver to motor (Reference: Image D) 3-Pin male to 2-Pin male LEMO to power receiver from Steadicam Zephyr (and others with similar 3-Pin connector) (Reference: Image I) Anton Bauer D-Tap male to 2-pin LEMO male to power the receiver from an Anton Bauer battery or V-Mount adapter with proper D-Tap connector. (Reference: Image G) 12V 4-Pin XLR male to 2-pin LEMO male presumably powering the receiver off of beefier film cameras or battery connectors (Reference: Image E) Unidentified 2-pin male LEMO to a fun, half 2-pin male, half 2-pin female connector that I've never seen before or needed to work with. If you recognize it, you get bonus points. (Reference: Image F) I think this last one is an old Panavision connector, if memory serves. But, I'm really not certain on this one either. It's a half 1-pin male, half 1-pin female LEMO connector and a fat 11-pin male connector on the other end. (Reference: Image C) Price: $3750 USD FREE SHIPPING to USA. Will provide quote for international Shipping. Payment via Paypal for Shipping or cash for Local Pickup: Boston area) Pictures attached:
  3. Depending on which Sekonic meter you buy, some make it easier than others to manage different functions, but yes, any light meter will work for any camera. Light is light.
  4. If you haven't, try taking a look at Zacuto's Camera Shootout series. They've done one in 2010, 2011 and 2012 and they're all up on their website, under the "Web Series" dropdown menu selection. It seems to be what you're describing. http://www.zacuto.com/original-web-content
  5. Hey Daniel, Yes, the camera is still for sale. I've put the sale on hold as I was traveling around quite a bit this past month. But, it is still available. PM me if you have any questions or if you're interested! Thanks much. Cheers!
  6. ...and I've been looking to sell my AF100, so if you happen to go that route, it'd cost you less than an XF105 new. PM me if you decide to go that route. :)
  7. But, to reinforce the point previously mentioned, you'll need to invest in a more expensive adapter that will allow you to control the aperture of the G-Series lenses, given that they do not have aperture rings built-in, but rather must be electronically controlled via an external input. EDIT: And, to add, every Nikon lens from the past 50 years has an F-mount. The G and D series lenses you're referring to are referencing a particular design of the lens, along with AI, AI-S, Pre-AI, along with a whole slew of letters to indicate lens specs. (See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F-mount)
  8. Just know that this does vary from airport to airport and from TSA agent to TSA agent. I've had really pleasant experiences with courteous and friendly people and I've had unfortunate incidents with complete jerks. Ultimately, they're trying to do their job, and I can chalk up the cases of the "jerks" to either their not knowing what the protocol is with that particular matter -- or maybe they were just jerks, who knows? But, you should know that regardless of who you end up asking to hand-check your film, you have the right to request it not pass through an x-ray. They have the tools necessary to hand-check things for a reason. Below is directly from the TSA's website:
  9. I've seen these guys mentioned quite a bit before. http://www.doggicam.com Terrible website design, but the Super Slide and Power Slide are the products you might be looking for, not fully understanding your purpose. But, I can imagine that 25 feet per second is sufficiently fast.
  10. At this rate, who knows? :P I'm debating putting it up on ebay because they are going anywhere from 2800-3500. Given its condition, I think it actually is worth a bit more than the lowest end of that totem pole. But, I haven't made up my mind. I'd like to sell it to someone in the various communities like these online, and not get hit by the ebay fees. But, either way, if it's still around in December, you'll still see it posted here. Cheers!
  11. I was just kidding, bud. Of course the lights matter. His images would be black without them (albeit, something he might have done intentionally). Either way, it very much depends on what version of Godard you're talking about when you place how important the element of lighting was to the overall film. What I can synthesize from my previous comment is that, justifiably, I don't watch early Godard for the lighting. My advice was to first place your focus on your performances (which are requiring highly nuanced and skilled performers) and your camera movement second. Godard already worked out the structure and pacing for you (as I'm assuming the assignment is to recreate cut-by-cut, shot-by-shot the scene) so that incredibly important part is set. Then, work out your lighting. Just my thought.
  12. It's Godard. The lights don't matter.
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