Andries Molenaar

If the example of the boiler applies then it applies even more to a 6008 comparing to 4008 somewhere else. Just plug in a better powersource and check the workings before sending it off for a repair of some unknown part. In USA you might also use super16inc.com. Best pricing and references. Beaulieu cameras are best compared with Citroën DS cars if it must be a car, lifelong lots of complicated maintenance rather then german ran Lamborghinis. Which you hardly ever will see by the road with its bonnet open. :) Nor will you find there any japanese cars. :)

There are variations in friction a cartridge of certain brands and filmtypes can have. :) Especially the homebrew things could be lacking proper lubrication. Also important is to run these Beaulieuxes with an extra strong batterypack when there is a large 200ft cartridge in or one of these high friction things. I.e. the large original external knob/fist of 8.4 volt which fits the grip. Or an external power source on the power inlet. This can be a mains adapter or a large battery-pack of 8.4/9 volt. Both with proper power ratings. You will find the camera more responsive too with 8.4 volt inside!

Just use a tripod, shoot from the TFT/LCD screen like that use some telephoto, shoot in the dark, some aperture close down and use long exposure like available on some Nizo, Bauer and Leicina cameras. Cannot go wrong :) Processing will take some time but from Sweden Andec-service in Berlin is close by.

the Ah rate has nothing to do with overpowering or such. it is the quantity of content of a battery. I.e. it can sustain 1.7 A for 1 hour. or 0.85 for two etc. The voltage or max Ampere are not defined by Ah. The camera runs at 24 volt and needs 1 Ampere at most, likely this at top speed. In a S8 cartridge there are 3800 frames. So it takes less then 13 sec to expose fully at 300 fps. Polavision hold less.

The super8wiki describes both with pictures: Visual_Instrumentation_Corporation_Model_SP-1_Cine_8_Camera Mekel_300

Power adapter costs very little, I bought a few from a recycle-shop at 1 Euro a piece. 24 volt 1 Ampere should be good. Some old-school inkjet printers have strong external 'high' voltage adapters. You can also run it from truck batteries. I think you are misjudging the complexity of the needed work. A single-8 does not fit. The developer gel inside the polavisions likely has dried out completely. Although some have used 10 year old ones with good result. Good luck :)

The Mekel 300 is a super-8 camera. It stops and starts as you like. It is fast and it has a registration pin just like the other Mekel. It is only 8mm film and not 16 or 35 with big reels. The specifics of other cameras have no relevance.

The Mekel 300 does not take out a loop of film. The cartridge goes in just like in a standard polavision camera. If you manage to reload these or fix a reel like thing on top of the camera and quide the film through properly using a cartridge probably it should work fine. It is quite different from the Mekel super-8 camera which threads the film around its own sprocket.

how well would photographs be printed/rendered? seems one has to supply a PDF and then the rendering of the PDF maker would determine how it is done? likely an album printingservice would be better for photo's

this is some sort of print on demand publishing facility? is the print durable?

The reloadable cartridge is vapourware. And I expect it will never show. Find really old single-8 cartridges. These are taped together and thus easily made reusable. The Mekel 300 runs only for the time the trigger is pushed in. Find the Zc1000 discussion on filmshooting were Roger mentions having built a 400ft holder onto a zc1000. Really nice. Try that on your Mekel (and zc1000). The trouble is there is no outside drive axis.

Do you intend to use it for slow motion or do you expect the registration pin to give good effect? For starters to test the camera reload old polavisions with super-8 or single-8. Either from long rolls (from wittner) or yank film clips from kodak or fuji cartridges. Single-8 would be interesting as more length would fit the polavision and the film is much stronger. Modifying the camera would be better when you fix a 60 meter spool holder on top and some feeder and threading in the camera... Then you can use the 60 meter loads from wittner or just the 15 meters from cartridges wound on a spool. Making standard single-8 fit is near impossible. The end of production of these is nearer then you would think, I am afraid.

Better ask Mitch Perkins in Canada. He has likely worked on the largest diversity of camera brands for converting them to superduper8

it is only an OP-assumption that there is something to suppose about 64T

these varta 450 barely fit in the height of the holder. how do you manage to get the connecting bands in between? These 600 version are even thicker and stacked together they are already higher the available height... I suppose one cannot compress them a bit. This would certainly damage the structures inside.

glad it worked. :) don't understand why you thank somebody who only advised against the operation of enlarging the gate.

here is a used one: usually people find one, buy it and then even it 3 years in storage. all with serious intent :) which never materializes. possibly you can find of these... all parts are still available. check here: steenbeck seems he has a number left... I thought there was some forummember in Los Angelos (USA) who is stuck with one.

Hm, then it is likely a direction reverser. Don't understand how that can work when then stop pins near the film gate are not swapped. Certainly a strong motor if can transport the film past the stop pin if the wrong one is switched in. :) Still, glad that it works.

on all forums it is reported as dead as a donkey. I haven't gotten any reply either. And this was to my reply on a special offer on their initiative. And before that the last time I ordered it took forever to get the emailing done. And get some action on shipping. It is same as with these other super-8 side operations where the owners get bored and even get angry with people who want to spend money. Stupid ***. They are damaging the imago of serious super-8 applications. don't send money and recall it if you can. It is far better to order real fresh film from retro8.com (use the english pages :) ) I t may seem steep but considering it is all included. Or order from FFR in germany if you are in Europe.

Opening is not too difficult. Would be interesting to see what they modified into the camera. I really am into these R10 camera's. First you need to take off the EE knob. See if you can take off the metal cover disc and then take out the screw. The left side leatherette should lightly be warmed and then be peeled off. It has been done before because of the mod. It now depend on the glue they used. After it is off you wil find a number of screws which hold the left cover. Take them out and lift the cover. There is some extra wiring for the switch. Then start the discovery. Mind the controls. Don't displace these because otherwise placing it back becomes a hassle. You can use it without the leatherette. Paint the panel for effect or use a replacement fabric. You could have it checked by retro8 in Tokyo: Nikon R10 repair address Likely the work isn't to expensive. The shipping could be more of a problem.

2 and 3 indeed contradict each other. Sound films is rare and only available on aftermarket from old-stock and certainly will run out soon for ever. You likely will get an offer soon for really expensive old stock Ektachrome and Kodachrome with sound. About 17 and 12 years old :) I have some Kodachromes left too. :) See what I'll do with these the next months/christmas etc.

The bulb is a part of the circuitry and the thing doesn't work when the bulb is loose or broken. The bulb is a standard component and can be bought everywhere. Check for example www.conrad.de Or shops around the corner so to say.

oh, and check the batteryholder contacts. on the clip and inside in the camera...

The switch is definitely a homebrew mod. We can only guess what the purpose is. You would have to take the left panel off to see where the wires go. The motor is close to the new switch. If that has anything has to do with it... With NIKON R10 and R8 it happens at times that the REV/FOR switch on the left panel is unintended on REV. The camera then only exposes 100 frames and stops by itself. And only starts again when you slide it to FOR again. :)

Nope :( But better check if you really need them. Many cameras and meters just work fine and correct with 1.5v alkaline which cost very little and can be had anywhere.