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rob spence

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Everything posted by rob spence

  1. I stand corrected. "The first modern film zoom lens, the Pan-Cinor, was designed around 1950 by Roger Cuvillier, a French engineer working for SOM-Berthiot. It had an optical compensation zoom system. In 1956, Pierre Angénieux introduced the mechanical compensation system, enabling precise focus while zooming, in his 17-68mm lens for 16mm released in 1958. The same year a prototype of the 35mm version of the Angénieux 4x zoom, the 35-140mm was first used by cinematographer Roger Fellous for the production of Julie La Rousse. Angénieux received a 1964 technical award from the academy of motion pictures for the design of the 10 to 1 zoom lenses, including the 12-120mm for 16mm film cameras and the 25-250mm for 35mm film cameras."
  2. Every technique has it's day when it becomes easily available...look at 'zooming in' shots when parfocal cine zoom lenses became affordable in the 70's.
  3. Hi Samuel, do you know who made the tap in 1979 ?
  4. Brian, Mine has the trays with the silver wings , just not in the shot. 3x3 inch filters...but take the trays out and a 4 inch filter can be used ( with some tape! ). Robin, the one you show is a different design, I beieve.
  5. Yes Brian, I had the lightweight bars fitted too. But the offset of this mattbox would never have fitted the Aaton anyway.
  6. The early Aaton mattboxes fitted onto the square handle rod, but this has a different offset to centre.
  7. This ia a 3inch x 3 inch mattbox ( presumably Arri ? ). Had it for years and I fitted a central bracket so it can be used on mattbars. But does anyone know what camera it was originally designed to fit via the off centre square bracket. ? (its not aaton)
  8. Thanks for all the info Charlie, fuse replaced and all is well !
  9. I've opened the motor case and the fuses are visible at top left. The 7A fuse comes out easily but the 15 A fuse is slightly more awkward. Does the book have any instructions? I'm presuming that the circuit boards have to be hinged upwards for access?
  10. Charlie, many thanks for this...great info. I think the polarity was indeed reversed causing the problems. So the fuse on the left is merely a spare. Does your book say how to access the motor compartment? I'm now presuming the 15A and 7A fuses must have blown.
  11. Just tried changing the speeds...still only the right one lights up. and still not running, only getting flickering sync light and beeps. So not sure what the hierogliphics indicate.
  12. Here it is...the fuses are removed in the shot. The sync light is the large red one below the fuse housing.
  13. Yes, sounds more dramatic than multimeter !
  14. Thanks Mark, both fuses are ok, ive checked them with a voltometer. Not sure if there are any internal fuses on the BL 4...information is scant on the interweb.
  15. Hi Phil, trouble is... one is on and one is off ! Camera not coming up to speed.
  16. Does anyone know what the two red lights which are next to the fuses on the rear of the camera indicate ?
  17. 6 inch x 6 inch Blue Grad 1 Hard by Lee of England for sale £45 plus postage. Perfect no scratches. Comes in padded Tiffen wallet.
  18. rob spence

    ARRI BL4 fuse

    The fuse has gone on my BL4...its marked 3/4 amp 125 volt, is this what I need? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pico-fuse-axial-4A-125V-Littlefuse-USA-10-FUSES-PER-SALE-UK-STOCK-SEGA-REPAIR/222285734804?epid=9003786034&hash=item33c1432394:g:8~IAAOSwjXRXYTDN
  19. Thanks for the workflow Mark. great stuff.
  20. Mark, can you tell us about the picture profile...or slog ? ...grading etc.
  21. Fortunately the client didn't want XAVC in the end!
  22. I have huge faith in the F3...this looks great.
  23. Yes, the page is stretched out. No idea why.
  24. Thanks Phil, trouble is I'm not so keen to try development software nowerdays...for fear of upsetting my computer. I'll tell the client he can't have xavc instead.! Must have that coffee soon.
  25. Is that possible, can't find anything on the web so I'm presuming it can't be done?
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