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Will Jacobs

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About Will Jacobs

  • Birthday 09/02/1996

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  1. Bump—I am still on the search!
  2. Does anyone own a 16mm Filmo 70 motor they would be willing to sell? Preferably I would like to find a motor that can run on 12v DC power (so I may power it with V-mount batteries). Thank you!
  3. I was attempting to remove the core adapter for my magazine out of the exposed spool of film and ended up pushing out the spool core. The inside film unraveled and I managed to wind some of it back onto the original spool. What am I to do in this circumstance— wind the rest of the exposed footage back onto the spool? I did touch some of the emulsion and tried to only handle the plastic side. My fingers were clean. Am I okay to use nitrate gloves to finish rewinding or could I even send it to the lab in its current condition. Any advice is dearly appreciated. I am quite worried if my footage is okay.
  4. Somewhere I read that it is prudent to only use half of the overall wattage a generator produces. Which were the best to work with? This is probably ludicrous, but could I somehow create a blimp with a hole for the exhaust? As for cables, what would be recommended if, say, I were to purchase the DuroMax XP12000EH and were to power 2k blondies and 1k redheads? Would using a 100 amp lunchbox be advised? If so, which ones might I utilize with a very small budget in mind? Thank you for your response, Phil!
  5. I am on a quest... I recently acquired an Arriflex SR I and have been preparing for my first 16 mm film project––a proof-of-concept short film for a micro-budget feature I plan to create in the next two years. Most of the story involves both day and night interior scenes: a classroom, an art gallery, households etc. My aesthetic approach is greatly influenced by the oeuvre of Tarkovsky, Bergman, Bresson, Antonioni, and Dreyer. I have a tremendous reverence for Sven Nykvist and have been sifting through the scarce footage there is of him at work. Rising from the ashes of my previous digital life, I confess my ignorance to the world of tungsten and HMI lighting after having sunk deeply into the sofa of LEDs. Yet, I've been fervently researching these past couple of weeks and analyzed documentaries of Nykvist... It appears Nykvist frequently used Ianebeam redheads (I would assume 1000w) and 2k blondies to bounce light. I'm uncertain which other models of lights he used seen in the attached screenshots and photograph. I'd imagine he shot on tungsten stock for interior scenes and had the great fortune of utilizing a soundstage to his advantage. Given that I am an independent filmmaker working with a micro-budget, where do I begin when it comes to investing in lighting equipment? For me it seems that incandescent lighting is the most reasonable route to tread at this juncture. I will invariably be shooting on-location for this narrative and I'm debating how I might tackle lighting interior scenes in the footsteps of Nykvist. The questions I continue to wrestle with are: Should I shoot on 250D or 500T? If I choose daylight stock, is it worth gelling tungsten lamps and losing light? If I choose tungsten stock, is it worth gelling windows? How much light do I really need/which lights normally get the job done if I should like to use an aperture of 4? I'm also quite ignorant to generators. I understand that if one were to acquire and use three 2k blondies to bounce light from white muslin draped outside a window, one will need a 12,000w generator and enough amperage to support 16.7 amps per unit. Would a conventional generator one might find at a hardware store suffice for incandescents? My novice knowledge informs me that noise may very well be a problem with some models as well as flickering. And the last thing I want to experience is exploding bulbs. Enlighten me! There are many other thoughts and questions, but I shall leave it at that for now. I am eager to receive more insight and information to assist me on this voyage. Many thanks ahead of time!
  6. Phil, I recently tested the lights with my digital camera and noticed barring at 24 fps. I have since returned them. It was enough to have me avoid finding cheap alternatives altogether and invest in what works and lasts. Thank you for your insightful response!
  7. It appears that flickering will not be an issue after viewing this video:
  8. I'm determining whether or not I could make an LED light bank for a project out of these shop lights: https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-8500LM-Daylight-Output-Linkable/dp/B07Q49DNGS/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=led%2Bshop%2Blight%2B5000k&qid=1587769697&sr=8-8&th=1 When shooting with 16mm film at 24 fps at 60 Hz, will there be any flickering? Even if I utilize typical LED video lights?
  9. I contacted CORE detailing my situation and this was their response: "The product is stated to be a 14.8 volt battery. That is it’s plateau voltage, meaning where it voltage stays the longest. All 14v batteries charge to 16.6 to 16.8 volts. All professional accessories will handle the voltage. The voltage you are seeing is called skim voltage and will drop as soon as you turn on the camera." I also opened the Movcam converter, having purchased it off of eBay and no need to return it, discovering that the XLR does not go through any down-conversion or regulation:
  10. Dom, I purchased a MOVCAM battery converter which apparently had a regulated 12v XLR output. After ordering a 12v cable and a F-to-F NEMAL adapter, I measured the voltage with my multimeter and was disappointed... Could this be true? Clearly it is, as I measured the 12v LEMO outputs which gave me readings of around 12v. The supposed 12v D-Tap outputs measured 16.60v along with the 14.8v camera output. I'm now perplexed.
  11. Dom, Thank you tremendously for your advice! I have since happened upon this new eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARRI-ARRIFLEX-SR2-V-Mount-HS-BATTERY-ADAPTER/283779091823?hash=item42128d4d6f:g:vQQAAOSwqp5eQhPO It states that the source voltage is 12v. If I connect a 14.8v V-Mount battery to this adapter will it output a regulated 12v to the SR?
  12. Would this cable work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Camera-Stabilzation-Tiffen-Ultra-2c-sled-2B-3pin-CAM-PWR-to-4-pin-XLR/263753518823?hash=item3d68ef4ee7:m:mLDaG4u21cjwl57HUzcWjPg
  13. Dom, I did take note of the reviews. As silly as it sounds, I wonder if I could make a custom barney with a small acrylic window to slip around the plate and battery if the noise is a nuisance. Another review states, "The 3-pin 12v Lemos are not the Arricam 3-pin size. The ones marked 12 volt are one size to big." I wasn't aware of the varied sizes of 3-pin Lemo's. Which one would be proper? As for the Lemo connector, is there a particular company you would recommend for making the cable? Thank you very much for your knowledge and guidance!
  14. Is it possible to power an ARRI SR I/II with 14.8v gold mount batteries? I understand the voltage would need to be converted to a regulated 12v, but even then is it posing a risk? I happened upon this plate: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/839205-REG/Movecam_MOV_306_0208_BATTERY_BRACKET_FOR_GOLD.html I would have to use a 3-pin male LEMO to 4-pin XLR cable to take advantage of the regulated 12v output. Is that possible, or would it pose problems? Any insight would be dearly appreciated, as I'm quite uneducated when it comes to power supplies. Thank you!
  15. I recently acquired a Clairmont Camera breakout box and have fallen into a small conundrum. It is a 12v breakout box with three 3-pin 12v outputs, two 11-pin 12v outputs, and a 2-pin 12v input. It also features a 3-pin cable to connect to a remote switch connector and has a 'start/stop' button. I was going to use this for an ARRI SR I. Being relatively new to the SR camera, the 2-pin 12v input is what baffles me. Would I need a 11-pin to 2-pin male-to-male cable running from the camera to the box? How might the 11-pin accessories I power with the box be compatible with the 2-pin input? Here are some photographs of the unit: https://postimg.cc/gallery/hew90pve/ Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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