Joerg Polzfusz

Another source: https://hollywoodfilmsupplies.com/film-supplies

Wittner: 305m for 300€ https://www.wittnercinetec.com/epages/WittnerCinetec-Super8-16mm-Film.mobile/de_DE/?ViewAction=View&ObjectID=17088395&PageSize=5

Urbanski also has various leaders: https://urbanskifilm.com/supplies.html

Or directly from Christy‘s (with more options regarding color and material): https://store.christys.net/product/16mm-leader-roll/

https://www.gaylord.com/Preservation/Media-Preservation/Film-Storage-%26-Supplies/Tools-%26-Supplies/Christy's-16mm-Film-Leader/p/FL16MM 150USD/1,000 ft.

Can’t you simply add a tripod or monopod as a support? (Does the camera really have to be constantly moving at all? If yes in combination with a low budget: what about placing the camerawoman into a wheelchair, attaching the camera to the wheelchair and then having someone pushing her? Of course, that’s a completely no-budget plus no-clue approach from a Super8-filmer. 😜)

Hi! Back in the days, they put camphor into the cans, too, not only into the humidor cans. Hence, for an amateur, it’s hard to say whether the film is decomposing or whether it was stored with camphor. https://www.nfsa.gov.au/preservation/preservation-glossary/decomposition says: „… Diacetate base film was used between the early 1920’s and 1951. Triacetate base had become a commercial proposition after World War II. Diacetate was based on a chemical constituent of camphor, and when this material degenerates it gives off a smell characteristic of camphor or napthalene. Another indication of its degeneration is brittleness. …“ https://www.paulivester.com/films/preserve.htm says: „…The earlier diacetate film (before the mid 1940s) might be slightly less prone to vinegar syndrome, but often emits a camphor or "mothball" smell due to the plasticizers used. Agfa-Gevaert stock emits a peculiar odor, which should not be confused with vinegar syndrome.…“

I once bought a cheap Chinese eyecup that was compatible to the original Nikon DK-19. It also fit onto my Elmo Super 103T. So, it also had a tiny inner diameter (11mm, 13mm, … I don’t recall, I am currently away from my cameras and can’t find any details online, sorry.).

Hi! a) The R25 is rather old (production stopped approximately in 1998/99 when the R25 got replaced by the R25N). b) You don’t know how the film got stored (too hot, too wet, in the Bermuda Triangle 😜, …). c) If I recall correctly, the R25 doesn’t like to be processed at too hot temperatures as it’s ab EM-25 film. So it could be a mix of all three factors.

BTW: Sometimes, Chinon is a little bit too „optimistic“ about their products‘ features. So it could be that the „manual exposure“ is only an „exposure lock“.

Hi! Your Chinon looks like several other „Darts“, but it completely differs from the two „Dart 70“-models and the „Dart“ without any numbers: https://www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_chinon/cameras_chinon.htm However, all of them are film cameras, so they can’t be used to shoot tapes. Not really sure about the manual exposure. I would assume that you simply turn the dial 1 and control position of the needle at 2. Good luck!

Hi! The diffs are listed on this website: http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Fujica_ZC1000_New#by_anonymous

Andec also does it: https://www.andecfilm.de/en/digital-to-film/

Hi! There are already many different hints online (bracketing,…), spread across various websites in different languages. (I have seen hints in at least English, French and German.) But I haven’t seen a single guide. But that guide would be either too long or pretty much useless. That‘s because older movie film stocks have a lot of different processes: ECN, ECN2, E-6, K11, K12, K14, Agfa Scala, DR-5, Agfa Moviechrome, Agfacolor, Agfacolor Neu, Orwochrom, EM-24 to EM-27, VNF-1, ME-2A, … . And as stated before: each roll has to be treated differently due to its potentially different storage history. (BTW: some manufacturers also printed a „process before“-date onto the boxes/cans. Even Kodak did this for certain stocks/years. Now , you will have to call Kodak and tell them the batch number to get the manufacturing date.)

Does it have to be vintage? https://www.istockphoto.com/de/video/kopenhagen-sterbro-xiv-synchronisierte-serie-rückansicht-fahrprozessplatte-gm1190140083-337227153 https://www.drivingplates.com/ https://videoplatesandbackings.com/ https://www.vecteezy.com/video/28572087-background-black-background-blurred-background-night-background-blur-background-bokeh-backgrounds https://youtu.be/sqT10FtjkYU https://www.pond5.com/de/search?kw=car-rear-window&media=footage

Hi! Please keep in mind that the first Fuji R25 (Fujicolor R25) was using the K-12 process (yes, that is one of the older Kodachrome processes). The switch to EM-25 happened when the film got renamed to Fujichrome. Tak (from Retro8.com) once stated that they are using E6 chemicals plus an extra step with an extra chemical to remove the remjet on the Fujichrome. But he didn’t state what this was. I also don’t know whether they are using different temperatures or timings for Fujichrome. There have been reports that you can remove the remjet with backing soda (same as for ECN-2). But after this step with the soda, you’ll still need to clean the film mechanically (sponge or similar) as the soda doesn’t completely remove the remjet, especially when it’s an older film without „N“ after the ASA value. Good luck!

Or using a cheap Chinese camera rocker that is operated manually? (There are even DIY versions.)

What about using a drone? Or using a steadycam/gimbal with the camera operator first sitting and then also standing up? Or using a motorized slider that is oriented vertically instead of horizontally (as in the attached image)? Or using a slingshot or cable pull? Unfortunately , using a height adjustable tripod (models with a crank for this adjustment) isn’t an option as all models that I have encountered so far are too shaky when operating the crank.

Hi! Looks like you should get yourself some step up rings/adapters, something like 52mm to „rear thread of the CS“… https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1739110-REG/neewer_66600389_anodized_aluminum_step_up_down.html Also try to get a used rotatable filter with a 52mm thread, e.g. a polarizer. When you remove the glass, then you can rotate the CS lens independently from the camera’s lens. Don‘t forget to add a lens support to your setup. Otherwise the weight of the CS lens will damage the Yashica on the long run. Good luck!

Hi! Looks like you should get yourself some step up rings/adapters, something like 52mm to „rear thread of the CS“… https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1739110-REG/neewer_66600389_anodized_aluminum_step_up_down.html Also try to get a used rotatable filter with a 52mm thread, e.g. a polarizer. When you remove the glass, then you can rotate the CS lens independently from the camera’s lens. Good luck!

I have discovered this article. It’s about the differences between 5247 and the V3s/digital: https://www.indepthcine.com/videos/kodak-5247 No clue whether it covers all aspects/differences. But it might be a good start.

Hi! You‘ll have to emulate the 5247 in post. All the modern emulsions have been improved too much to look like the 5247 „out of the box“. And all the V3s have been designed to give exactly the same look. The only difference is the grain, which is more obvious in S8. When shooting anamorphic, you definitely want the finest grain. Hence it’s V3 50D or E100D. What do you mean with „bulk“? Do you want to get a rebate when ordering more than one cart? Then try Rochester. Or do you want to get the film with cartridge as bulkware/meterware? Then try Wittner ( https://www.wittnercinetec.com/epages/WittnerCinetec-Super8-16mm-Film.mobile/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=17088269 ) or Pro8mm.com (they usually only offer it as „special order“). Have fun!

Wikipedia only says „Kodak“ and „Colour“… https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Double_Vie_de_Véronique#Fiche_technique

Even when buying from Kodak, B&W isn’t cheaper than color neg: https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/Kodak-Motion-Picture-Products-Price-Catalog-EAMER.pdf (Okay, it isn’t more expensive as I would have expected.)

I would buy from the EU as this frees me from paying high shipping costs, having to pay import taxes and other customs, … And on the other hand, I will have more rights as a client (that have their costs), … . I know what „re-canned“ means. But when translating to „car terms“, it’s the same as „pre-owned“ aka „used“: There’s no warranty that the previous owner correctly stored the film, that the film hasn’t been x-rayed at some airport, that the previous owner didn’t accidentally already exposed it to light/dust/sand/… etc..