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Found 13 results

  1. Hello guys and gals, So, yesterday, while processing some Tri-X Super 8, something nightmareish happened during the second developpement after re-exposure : after 1 min in the 2nd developer (where the emulsion properly reacted and darkened), it slightly started to lift from the plastic and then it litteraly disloved into the developper : no floating gelatin flakes, just a plain black developer... The weird thing is that I already processed Tri-X this way, here is an example : https://vimeo.com/326184819 Here is my protocole, I have included as much info as I can : 1 – Soaking in a 25°C water bath. 2 – 1st Developer : Ilford Multigrad 1+9, 20min (continuous agitation on 1st minute, then 10sec each minute), 25°C. 3 – Hardening stop bath : Adox EcoStop 1+29 + 40ml/L of Tetenal Hardener. 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. (https://www.fotoimpex.com/chemistry/tetenal-hardener-to-be-added-to-the-fixer-or-stop-bath-1000-ml.html?cache=1564733928) 4 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 5 – Bleach : Potassium permanganate 0,4% + Sulfuric Acid 10% equal part, 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. 6 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 7 – Clearing bath, Sodium metabisulfite 6%, 2 min, 20°C, continous agitation. 8 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 9 – Hardening stop bath : Adox EcoStop 1+29 + 40ml/L of Tetenal Hardener. 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. 10 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. RE-EXPOSURE : 2x1min 80W 1m in a white tank filled with water. 11 – 2nd Developer : Ilford Multigrad 1+9, 4min (stand), 25°C. The same solution I used as 1st developer. And that's where the emulsion dissolved.... Usually, after that, I use an hardening fixer for 5 minute, washing 10 min on runing water, rinse with distilled water, let it dry and digitalise with a Retroscann Universal. It's fastidious, but cheap ! Side notes : - Processing in Lomo Tank. - I know Ilford says not to use Ilford Multigrade for processing film (Universal PQ is recommanded instead), but through my test phase it was the only thing I had on hand, so I tried and it worked as you could see on vimeo. - I've never found any information about the shelf lif of the Tetenal hardener. As it is supposed to be mixed with Stop or Fix, I mixed it with the Adox Eco Stop to be sure I won't use an hardening bath tha is no longer working. Anyway, I mixed a new solution and it was still a disaster. - I use the hardener to compensate the softening of the emusion by the bleach. One bath before to strenghten, one bath after to reinforce. I thing the bleach isnt to blame, otherwise it the continous agitation in the clearing bath would have the same mechanical effect, so I guess it is a chemistery issue. The film is perfectly fine during re-exposure, bleaching is complete, after touching the film, the emulsion is normal. - I dont know why the developper is dissolving the emulsion on second use but work perfectly fine on the first one. So that's it, if anyone have an idea, i'm all ears ! Thanks ! Jérémy
  2. Im new to the forum and have a long question, but I have read a lot of posts here before so I am turning to you all for help! I bought my first super 8 camera, a Canon 310xl a couple of months ago, and in January, I bought two cartridges of Tri-X reversal to shoot with. I am a college student, so I did not have a chance to shoot until last week, so until then I kept the two carts in the fridge to keep cool. So last week, I finally opened my first box of Tri-X and loaded it into my camera. I notched hack the cart so I could control the built in filter as well! I turned the camera on and pulled the trigger, and the film ran for about 30 frames before the film transport indicator in my viewfinder stopped running, indicating that the film was not moving. So i opened my camera and pulled the cartridge out and the film had snapped! The whole cart gone. So I chalked it up to maybe a faulty cart, so I loaded my second one. And you guessed it, the exact same thing happened! Both my catridges with snapped film. So my question: Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it? I don't know enough about yet to be able to figure out whats causing the film to just break. Did the film get brittle from being in my refrigerator too long? Or is something wrong with my camera, is it too fast? Is something wrong with the takeup hooks? I just don't know. I have called Kodak about getting replacements, but scared that the same thing will happen again. If you may know anything about why my film is breaking after 30 frames I would appreciate your help. Im a college student, I can't afford just buying more film if I will never be able to shoot with it. Thanks!
  3. Kodak Ektachrome 100D Double Super-8 16/8 2R 122 meter / 400 feet Kodak 7285 CAT 186 1681 One metal can, never opened, from cooled storage. NOT homebrew DIY. Kodak original perforation in Kodak packaging. Bought it for a project from USA, own import. It is now in Europe. Save on duties while it is here. Never made it into the work and I don't expect any use in the short or long time. Nice to expose in DS-8 camera like Elmo Filmatic of Canon Scoopic for maximum sharpness or slit it into two strands and use these to fill 16 pieces of loadable Super-8 cartridges. Over 50 minutes of running time at 18fps! You can have it easily have it processes at any ciné lab which does E-6 Now selling it at USD $950 or EURO equivalent I have images of the offered can, the website is very limited on storage. IBAN banking preferred Paypal available at +3% I have an over 700 eBay positive feedback Rolls of 400ft of single strand meterware Super-8 was offered at Euro 400 http://www.filmvorfuehrer.de/topic/22761-kodak-ektachrome-100d/page__hl__%2Bektachrome+%2B400 And sold out quickly... No to forget the USA based 20 cartridge cases at $1900 or 2 cartridges at $170 Excerpts from Kodak Datasheet https://www.super8.nl/file/7285.pdf TECHNICAL DATA / COLOR REVERSAL FILM KODAK EKTACHROME 100D Color Reversal Film 5285 / 7285 is a 100-speed, high-color reversal motion picture camera film intended for photography under daylight illumination (5500K). It offers strikingly saturated color performance while maintaining a neutral gray scale and accurate flesh reproduction. 5285/7285 Film has exceptional sharpness that is unsurpassed by any other 100-sp eed reversal film, and its grain performance is excellent. This film also offers very strong reciprocity uniformity and keeping stability. This film offers outstanding results in outdoor and studio applications where strong color saturation is desired. It is excellent for advertising, nature cinematography, documentaries, music videos, and is especially good for telecine transfers and television filming. BASE Acetate safety base. EXPOSURE INDEXES Daylight (5500K): 100 Tu n g s t e n ( 3 2 0 0 K ) : 25 (with 80A filter) Use these indexes with incident- or reflected-light exposure meters and cameras marked for ISO or ASA speeds or exposure indexes. These indexes apply for meter readings of average subjects made from the camera position or for readings ma de from a gray card of 18-percent reflectance held close to and in front of the subject. For unusually light- or dark-colored subjects, decrease or increase the exposure indicated by the meter accordingly.
  4. Don't hold your breath while waiting for the Kodak reversal film. Ektachrome 100D is here! Over 50 minutes of running time at 18fps! Ektachrome 100D 400ft can of Double-Super-8 DS-8 Kodak Ektachrome 100D Double Super-8 16/8 2R 122 meter / 400 feet Kodak 7285 CAT 186 1681 Comes from cooled storage, factory sealed. Obviously you will need a DS8 camera or skills and capability to cut and split this DS8 into 16 pieces suitable for Super-8 cartridges. Shipping from Netherlands The Fata Morgana:
  5. HI All - I have an old Beaulieu 5008s I bought used back about 1983. I used it a few times, but then it's sat in a closed case for the past 30 or so years. Battery's completely dead and won't charge. I've been looking around to see if anyone can recell the battery or if there's a DIY page that explains it, but haven't found anything so far, and the leads on this site are all fairly old. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks! Tim Walton
  6. This is a Very Nice Eumig Mark S 810D High Quality Sound Super 8 and Regular 8 Projector wich includes the Rear Projection Adapter. These projectors are getting harder and harder to find especially in this good condition. I'm selling them together for $275. Plus Shipping. The Projector is by itself is $225 and you can buy the Rear Projection Adapter by itself for $125 if you want it. Everything is in Excellent Condition. Both Super 8 and Regular 8 Gates and Sprocket Gear Sets are included. Working Bulb. This is one of the Best Super 8 Projectors made. If you're looking for a projector to convert to a do-it-yourself film transfer unit this would be a good choice. It has a solid all metal construction and is gear driven with a once per frame rotating shaft.
  7. Hi everybody, Shooting a 2 1/2 minute shot in slow motion (30 fps or slower) but it's a shot of someone lip syncing an entire song. I'd like to do it on 16 or Super 8 but I'm not sure what the most budget-conscious way of proceeding would be. There's definitely no way of achieving this without crystal sync, right? So any advice on the cheapest camera system that can do slow motion (at 30fps or slower) and keep sync? Thanks so much for the help! - Ez
  8. Hi, I'm selling my Nalcom Synchro zoom FTL super-8 camera. I'm not clean on if it's the professional 800 or 600. I've tested all that I could, the automatic zoom works, aperture shifts with light levels, and I hear sounds coming from the film when I record, so I assume that works as well. The glass is perfect. Besides the camera this includes: Shinkor zoom 6.5-65mm f1.8 Shinkor close-up lens with leather case SLR-lens adapter (m42) with leather case 3 flare caps Soligor MK-10A flash Two pistol handles shoulder holder / strap Leather case Manual is great condition Detailed photos can be found here: http://s3.photobucket.com/user/michel000/library/Super-8%20Nalcom The easiest way to contact me is probably email me at fuse.core@hotmail.com
  9. I'm considering adding Super-8 (MAX8) camera hire to my small format transfer company's services. The cameras would be purchased from Pro8. What I would like to know from cinematographers is what equipment they would require in a rental package. The other question is wether UK customers would require crystal sync at 24, or 25 FPS. Any thoughts and advice will be much appreciated. Grant Bennett
  10. I have a budget of roughly $500. I'm trying to get a good solid super 8 camera and each one I look at, I come and do research (mostly here) and people are saying they are having problems with them, so I'm a bit weary of just buying any old one off eBay. Does anyone have any good recommendations on where I should start? Old home movie's is the look I'm going for so I don't necessarily need it to be state of the art. Thanks!
  11. Hi, I recently bought some bulk super 8 film from Wittner and a reloadable super-8 cartridge. And when practicing loading with dead film, I'm struggling to get the super-8 to run smoothly through my camera, as Wittner cartridges does not come with the copper ring used to keep the film in place. I think they have replaced the copper ring with a clear plastic larger ring (seen in the photo, inside the cartridge on the right) that is suposed to keep the film (on the receiving side of the cartridge) in place some how? Here is a photo of everything supplied with the cartridge: Please could someone give me some advice on how to load these cartridges? I have seen some information on this forum about DIY reloadable cartridges but not the Wittner cartridges. I hope this makes sense, Thanks in advance. -Harry
  12. I recently purchased a reloadable super-8 cartridge from Wittner and I'm extremely confused about where to cut the ASA notch. I bought the CHROME 200D film which is Daylight: 200 and Tungsten: 50. Please could someone tell me where to cut the notches for this stock? Or somewhere said something about not needing notches for daylight film? Im very confused. I have been trying to use this guide: http://peaceman.de.www127.your-server.de/schmalfilm/super8/S8_Notch_Tools_v1.0.pdf But I'm struggling. Please could someone tell which notch to cut to on this guide? Thank you! -Harry
  13. Ok, so I have been searching all over the net and there tends to be little information about these cameras. If anyone has any information it would be appreciated. I know Keystone has long since gone bankrupt and so information on their products have become scarce. Also, a manual or technical information would be appreciated to. I don't mean to inconvenience anyone so, i appreciate any help offered. I have a Keystone Capri K-30 camera, and it is in practically top notch shape, it seems to have a similar build to The K-26 model minus the other 2 additional lenses...so idk if that helps or is reliable. but, im trying to learn about this camera and what it can do and what are its limitations. and what i can do with it. 2nd im trying to find out how to switch out the battery, and where the battery compartment even is. cause i assume it runs on a battery.. and are their any batteries made nowadays or in production that will work for this camera. also im trying to see if i can find information on how to load film into this camera, and how to use this camera. I know it uses 8mm film and Super 8 film (they may or may not be the same thing im not sure sadly), and you have to crank the lever., i just need to know the loading and operation procedures. Also does anyone still produce 8mm film? does anyone have any websites to suppliers of such film. What types of 8mm film are their, i know there is probably black and white film, and color film or im guessing black and white and color film exist....but, is film speed (ISO) a factor here? that may be a stupid question, i mean i assume so. do these have a set shutter speed or a changeable shutter speed? Second is developing 8mm film similar to developing 35mm, medium format, or large format films like for still cameras like you would do in a photography class?
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