Lav Bodnaruk

back to da vinci code, i am yet to see the movie since there is so much discussion about it - not just here but everywhere i look, peolpe seem to be dissapointed with the film, Mr Ron's direction and most of all Mr Hanks acting... so yeah, its a must see for that reason only. It makes me wonder if this general dissapointment is based on the fact that the film had such a heavy marketing behind it? If the film wasn't promoted as much, and you still went to see it, still thought it was crap, would you at least feel a bit less cheated? Perhaps one wouldn' slam it as much then... I don't know... Like i said, I am yet to see it myself. I did however read the book and though it was predictable and poorly written. I do understand some may not agree since it was the best seller and it caused contraversy with the church plus all that nonsense with being sued by the writters of "Blood and Grail", but none the less... within the first 100pages you knew who was what and what will happen in the end. Don Brown's earlier piece called "Angels and Demons" was a much better thriller for me... although that may have been only because i found science vs religion an interesting topic; turning that into a film would be rather difficult and very contraversial i am sure, shooting in Vatican, killing the Pope, etc etc...

Hey Tim, i merely went into contacts of ebay and wrote to them but got no reply from them yet... perhaps i will get the same reply as you got, to mind my own business - hence why i had written to the original seller... although i do re-call writing to ebay once about this kind of thing and getting a thank you letter informing me that they will handle it!?! It was real long time ago though... Oh n i got this email once too: Dear indifilmz: Our records indicate that you recently interacted with ticosmic6 through the eBay email system. Sometimes eBay accounts are used to send email solicitations for transactions outside of eBay, or to send unrelated questions in an attempt to discover your email address. We wanted you to be aware of the potential fraud risk these solicitations pose and encourage you to ignore the email you received from this member. Sales that take place outside of eBay are not eligible for any eBay or PayPal protective services and you run the risk of losing your money or your item if you complete these transactions. We would encourage you to review the eBay pages related to Fraud Protection at the address provided below for information on steps you can take to ensure that future transactions are completed successfully: http://pages.ebay.com/help/confidence/isgw-fraud-ov.html it went on a bit longer but just boring stuff... obviously no action; cheers,

Hi there, since I am in PAL country I'd find this an interesting question...to hear an answer to i mean. I guess, it is a matter of making sure you do select your proper frames per second, your ration and sound bites... oh and obviously when starting a project up you should choose a correct pre-set... I?d be interested to hear what others may have to say on this... Cheers mate,

I had done that the moment i saw it... i also reported it to the original seller, who also told me he reported it to ebay... when this kind of stuff happens it is surprising how slow ebay can act... i mean, i did all that emailing about 16hrs ago... and it still there!!! Go figure... Cheers PS. I am sure you can sign up for an ebay account with credit card, and use it to BUY stuff... to sell however you must give credit card details so they have a record of who you are and the rest... (not that that stops these scammers) Surely they have no conscious... although i once read this funny thing where a scammer got scammed BACK! http://www.p-p-p-powerbook.com/

Hey Tim, i was sure that it was legit, thats why i posted it here - cause i exchanged an email with him.. but yeah, saw two other auctions claming to be him with his pictures, one from China the other from somewhere else... I remember selling one of my cameras on ebay when i had my pics re-appear for weeks later in scamer auctions, its a nightmare with ebay like that... Cheers

Hi, I must admit I too envy you, a 25g budget is a nice one for an ARRI... i'd definitely look towards an ARRI SR2 with all the extras such as tap and pl mount, etc... good luck mate. oh yeah, i saw this on ebay, although i got no idea who the seller is and have seen others steal his photos to try and scam folks - so maybe if you are in similar area you could go check it out... ?! http://cgi.ebay.com/Arriflex-Super16-SRII-...1QQcmdZViewItem here, this one is a scam http://cgi.ebay.com/Arriflex-Super16-SRII-...1QQcmdZViewItem sorry to hijack the thread like this, i was just giving the example Again, good luck with your purchase.

Hi Greg, Thanks heaps for that error code list! I really appreciate it mate! I hope that those that run into the same error as myself will find this post as usefull as i did! Again, a big thanks Greg! Enjoy your martini mate :D

Hi Greg, long time no talk mate. I'd love to hear the error codes if you do not mind putting them up, when you get your camera back that is... i don't know if i ever even received the manual for the camera on up its purchase from Video Pro here in Briz Vegas... I am using it again right now, just shot about 5 tapes today - and it has gone by smooth... i'm yet to check the footage, but at least no C:32:10! I reckon it was the tape - minDV SONY - they have been selling for extremely CHEAP here ($27AUD for travel pack - 5 tapes, diary thingy and some name thingy... w pen) so that must be it... i am going to go back to my TDKs that havent caused me any trouble in past... What tapes do you use when shooting MiniDV? I am interested in stock you would recommend for weddings, corporates and similar... obviously it is SONY when DVCAM is in question... but in reality i only use DVCAM when transferring my 16mm from telecine onto tape for off line work... Cheers,

Hi Jared, as some folks already mentioned in the early replies, the crystal sync becomes vital when using lights say in Australia for instance, on 50Hz... I too own a 16mm BL and have used it without the crystal sync (till i got one) and have gotten a hell of a lot of flicker throughout my footage... The lights I got onto were rather cheap and without flicker free balast. It also just happens to have been freezing cold on the day and my battery failed to power up the camera well too - 12V Panavision battery, mounted in the metal box... You do not need to be in siberia to experience that kind of cold, just have a go at shooting at night in the desert... that's right, it is freezing cold... and we all know that even rocks break on such a difference of temparature. DP from Brisbane gave me a word of advice in regards to shooting in desert, he said he always but always, straps his batteries on his torso and wears a jacket over it...

i thought the mirror sounded pretty good... i wouldn't have thought of that. I too would have gone for the green screen of course or reverse (with tests before hand) but the mirror appeals to me greatly. Good luck and let us know what you choose to do.

Hi Grant, thanks for the reply mate. I actually managed to read up on it on Google and switched it off for 15secs, without any battery or power connection. Then i hooked it up to power only (no battery) and pushed in a 'reset' button which is under the 'menu' button on the surface under the LCD screen... Once i did that it was no problem hitting eject and getting the door to open up, releasing the tape. I also read that sometimes this error code appears if your 'internal' battery is flat?! I then ran the cleaning tape through it for 10sec and had no issues removing it out; I would love to know what could have possibly caused this to happen, if it is a pd170 issue or a tape issue (sony); I would hate for something link this to happen to me whilst out on a job, can you just imagine that? That would be a nightmare... Since i do not know how to pin point the error cause, I am currently lookng around for the best service quote here in Brisbane, Australia - and hopefully Video Pro can send it out to Sony direct for 'service'... inspection or whatever they call it... Hope that the 15sec shut down and reset button helps some other lost C:32:10 folk like it did me. Thanks for defining the name of the error code Grant. Cheers mate,

Hi Dave, yeah i did the whole thing where i switch of the camera for 15 seconds and then start it up again with no battery just on power supply and press in the reset button which released the tape.. then i ran a cleaning tape through it... but like you said, it would appear it is the wisest of decision for me to get it serviced for i dont want this to happen in the middle of the job; Thanks for your prompt resonse mate! Cheers,

Hi, as the title suggests i got a flashing error message of C:32:10 on my PD 170. The tape is stuck in there! Got any tips on how to get it out or better yet, why is it stuck in there in the first place and what can i do to prevent that... i have tried using only one kind of tape stock (SONY) and have used cleaning tape on it recently... Any info would be very very much appreciated! Cheers

thanks guys, i am back months later with the same issue... been using same tapes, used cleaning tape everynow and then and even did that humidity thing... the drop outs reduced at first, probably with the cleaning tape beign put through it the first time and are now back again with vengance. As i type this, my tape got stuck in there!!! The message flashing is C:32:10? I have not seen this before so any info would be most welcome, for i cannot get the tape out!> I read on the net that this is either a door issue, an inside battery issue or again dust/humidity thing issue? I am wondering is there a way of narrowing down what might be a problem and better yet how on earth do i remove that tape without dismentaling the camera and breaking anything? Thanks guy!!

Thanks Tim, i understand what you mean now. I might have a bit of a search on that subject myself as i do use premier at times, although my main edit software is Avid, Xpress Pro to be preciese ; I totaly agree on Avid looking better on your resume then anything else. I have recently commenced teaching a class and the kids are using avids... its better like this, to start them off in the pro environment;

Yo Yo, Dajan, wise choice man, holding off on buying a camera is very smart, learn the ropes first... seriously read up on the ST and no one better to talk to about it then Tim :) Remember BL is a sync camera, one that you can record sound with simultaniously, but not before you blimp all your lenses and even chuck a barney onto mags... no big deal of course, but as apposed to an SR it limits your using of follow focuses and similar... Do you know who Christopher Nolan is? Have you seen his "Following" (1998) that was shot completely on BL :) Read more about BL here - no one sets out all that is good and all that is bad about it then CinemaTechic; http://www.cinematechnic.com/resources/arri_16bl.html --> brows it hit Products and read more; this should be a definite read for you: http://www.cinematechnic.com/resources/index.html on the bottom of that page it tells you few advices! make sure you read that! You asked me about the 24fps and 25fps in your PM, seriously have a bit of a look around the site for that answer in more depth. I have shot a feature film trailer just now, not the entire film - not yet anyways :D and we shot on 25fps (ARRI 3 and BL3). There are some productions stills on http://www.lavproductions.com - film projects/stills; We had a huge debate before hand on what we should shoot because we knew our finish format would be for investors, hence the TV and not theatre... The problem of course wasnt the sound, you can adjust all your sound recording machines to do both - i even have a SYNC sound measuring device which Mr Don Brown made for me (legend!) that you put in front of the camera whilst it runs and view it through the viewfinder - the led lights flick according to what speed it is going. I currently borrowed it to Panavision ... why am i talking of this? dam i get easily sidetracked... ammm yeah, 24 or 25 --> here http://www.cinematography.com/forum2004/in...topic=11481&hl= "no_soft_shots" is my DOP on the trailer, his name is Paul Seipel, hopefully his question and answers help you out. Your main concern should be the light flicker and frequency... the 24fps gives you less of a window to move around in 50Hz country, our country; Cheers,

wow you were onto it already, thats pretty good! Mate, I reckon I need to talk to you about scouting the field for an SR2 when i become ready to buy it :D I just got to stop doing these weddings and corporates... roll some film again... Thanks Tim PS Dajan I saw this BL here on eBay whilst browsing... gives you an idea of what they are like; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 except of course, mine has every single thing a BL can have, every accessory;

check it out Tim, a bit too much no? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ZEISS-12-120mm-Supe...1QQcmdZViewItem

Hi Tim, yeah i wasnt speaking about the images you linked to when i made that comment, i was merely speaking from my personal experience. The Angenieux 12-120 zoom lens i worked with on one project, whilst in great cosmetic condition, produced exactly what you said B grade images. The sharpness just wasnt there, when comparing to some of the other lenses from that same project. I wouldn't knock them all down though, i even offered to buy an Angenieux the other day for myself, just to add to the collection really :D what are you shooting with these days? Hey Dajan, just googling Perth and film camera in the same sentance i got these guys http://www.westcoastfilms.com/ maybe try and contact them, tell them you would love some film experience, they may take you along to a shoot or tell that to their clients whome they rent gear to, who can take you along for a TVC shoot... it would be good experience! Cheers,

hey there, You could have said it all better Tim. I am 100% behind you on that Bolex stuff too... but anyways, i better stop before we get stuck in a argumentative discussion with someone who prefers it over arri's; And of course you can crop the standard 16mm to super 16mm look, just keep it in mind when shooting and do it in telecine and not in your off line edit suit... by zooming in... or you could just add bars to it like i did on number of projects, which i was a fan of when i was younger :unsure: Most of my old reel which is on my site (real outdated) is shot on ST and SR2 (standard) with bars put over it; www.lavproductions.com ("about us" - crap export though) That?s a great link Tim. It should definitely help Dajan see the look of some lenses, although personally i am not particularly keen on 12-120mm Angenieux... take it easy,

pm answered/ hey mate make sure you know what mount the camera has and what that means in regards to getting other lenses? weather it is something you can add lenses to later and wheather they are GOOD lenses... if you are buying something for $4k you want to be able to use best of lenses on it too :D my 2cents of course super 16mm is an advantage! It gives you more of a frame! As long as the conversion is proper... read up about that on this forum, there are heaps of topics on this and the rest of the stuff you may need to know - just look for once where people are asking about buying 16mm cameras. I'd recommend you get ST instead, learn the basis of 16mm shooting and then think about renting SR3s untill maybe one day you have enough work lined up it pays to buy an Arri Sr2 super 16mm :D Cheers,

very cool site

hey mate, here something that can help you: http://www.cinema-astoria.com/cinematography/arri/ but i dont know those prices since they are US... here is the AU run down from what i do... 400ft 16mm neg - $250AUD 400ft develop - $160AUD (approx - depends on the price per foot i used $0.42 - but dont know whats current,... it could be 45c or 40c) 400ft telecine - this could range... generally it takes them ONE HOUR to get through 400ft in ONE LIGHT if they are to spend super long time on it and colour each shot oyu might be there for TWO hours, and if you just want to transfer to tape you might get it done in 45min... the cost of one hour without student discounts and stuff is about $750AUD... but try and talk to them to negotiate it; oh yeah, 400ft counts for about 11min - this obviously vaires if you shoot 25fps or 24fps... hope it helped. numbers mentioned are all off the top of my head. you need to call your kodak/fuji store for quote on the film, your lab for quote on the dev and your telecine suit for transfers...

Hey Dejane (vozdra mate), where did you graduate from? It fully doesnt surprise me that you weren't exposed to any film stuff at your collage, since i went through the same thing when i graduated... and i hear almost every UNI in AU is the same (except few); anyways, the question you were asking was about 16mm camera. You probably dont need to buy a camera... thats straight up. You dont need it. You should look into renting one for the project, talk to your rental housings and see what deal you can score to use it for the amount of time you needed it... in that case you can rent a beautiful camera (an Sr3 would be my choice - or a 16s SR2 if budget is a bit less - some others would advise on getting Aaton... but for unknown reason i just prefer Arri, perhaps its a comfort thing of knowing it a bit better) and shoot your flick. This is good for couple of reasons. First of you dont get stuck with an old bomb that doesnt work from eBay that is going to cost you lots to ship and even more to fix and clean and lub n the rest (plus you'd probably be stuck tryign to find someone to do all that for you for cheap) but more importantly you get to work on a camera that is used in the industry and you get to learn it a bit... get it? then use the rest of your money on lights and other stuff... If however you still wanted to mock about with a 16mm camera, id recommend you buy one from me :) Yeha, i aint kidding either. My 16mm BL is a beast, that wont let anyone down. It comes with sync controller, 4 mags, swan viewfinder, and before anyone bags it - it has multiple BLIMP housings! Thats right, i own one for the zoom lens (10-100 Zeiss T3.3) one for all your primes (3 prime lenses included 10mm, 16mm, 35mm) and one for 75mm; Its a heavy and uncomfortable camera... a struggle to put on steadicam - although i do have a VIDEO TAP that gets attached onto the viewfinder... It wont be easy but you will get to learn all that you need to know about 16mm film with it...and a bit more (like how to load its magazine :D) Ill throw in couple of other things if you are really interested, so to make it ready to shoot from the box... (e.g. dark bag, cores, filters, etc etc.)

Adobe premier PRO 2 is pretty alright, specially when you incorporate Boris FX with it, you can really do some nice colouring with it. I am sure that Final Cut HD handles it the same, with the same 3rd party software. I am not sure about Tims question and weather Adobe Premier can export cuts to be done on neg any other way then logging in properly, following time code and exporting EDL... i just assumed that was the way this process is done? I could be very wrong... do let me know though. otherwise if you are cutting videos, your HD might be handled better by one then the other. Are you just going to use firewire or got capture cards? And the exporting is important too... i could never really get a good Quick Time export from Premier, and needed that to put reels on the net - if anyone knows how to make a quick time export work in premier effectively, let me know. the point of the above posts remains, a cut is a cut. It is a matter of picking one that works on your machine and learning to use shortcuts on your keyboard so you move quick and look cool :D actually whilst at it, get a graphics tablet and roll with that, you'll definitely score some wows