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Sam Bignell

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About Sam Bignell

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  • Birthday 11/06/1996

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  • Occupation
    1st Assistant Camera
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  • Specialties
    Camera Assistant, Grip & Electrical Department

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  1. Hey Everyone In my line of work I'm really interested in spending as much time with client and lighting as possible and as little on camera as possible. I switched most mysetup to hardcases this year for obvious reasons. My camera system can be built in a basic setup in under a minuite and a half and for larger setups it would take normally 3-6 mins to build but I can leave it moslty prebuild in a iM2620 minus lens and handle, so I already have time saving killer setup but I am stilll super intersted in Tenba's bags as one of them could keep my whole system handle included, comple
  2. Hey Everyone I may have posted this in ther wrong section apologies if I have The Lowdown The otherday I was doing some photography and noticed my lightmeter which is usually used exclusively for Film and video was overexposing my photos by about half a stop on middle grey but only in all modes but Cine or Video mode using Incident reading I check all settings, Filter compensation, The profiles compensation, I reset the lightmeter, I changed profiles I did everything to make sure I han't left something off or on but couln't find a solution I only have an incident attac
  3. Thanks for this Honestly such a great shout reguarding rental houses!!
  4. Hey All This is a pretty simple 101 question (Fake Example) I have a 800w Light beside me, When I point it at the ceeling in flood I get 34fc in bounce output, When I put it in full spot I should still get Roughly 34fc? given the spot is in generally the same place above where I'm measuring give or take some FC variables and such but it's the same amount of light output it's now just spotted into one area rarther than the whole ceeling? Is that technically how it's suppose to be? So a 800w light in full flood could output 48fc at the center of it's beam at a very large Beam
  5. This is a great point and did cross my mind reguarding measuring at 3ft an unsafe distance I'm going to give it another clean sometime soon and will test at a greater distance, The reflectors are dent free and are actually pretty clean looking however I have two of these 800w heads ones an original ARRI arnold & richter really old the others a standard ARRI both have seen a lot of use and the arnold and ritcher I guess is not quite as shiny looking in terms as the dish and does measure les light in the SPOT I tried a brand new bulb however not an Osram OEM 800w and there was no d
  6. Urhmm I guess must be the case, The reflector is definietly not warped or dented but maybe the dish has just lost it's reflectiveness however it looks pretty darn clean and reflective and as I just cleaned it it looks.. well clean but it must have just "faded" slightly
  7. Hey Everyone I must just be doing something wrong or my lightmeter is wrong but I was testing my 800w open face lights today between a few brands I have and noticed that my own Arrilite 800w Open faces put out considerably less light than what Arri's photometrics says they should? Arrilite 800w at 3ft away pointing directly at the lightmeter dome Recessed inside not out, settings (25fps, 800iso, 180d) 240v Full Flood I got a 340fc , Arri's photometrics say it should be roughly 537fc Full Spot I got a 2200fc, Arri's photometrics say it should be roughly 9871fc Is there somet
  8. Haha! To be honest I spent nothing on all of my tungsten units, despite them being clearly outdated and hot and inefficient I still love them they still work on every job I go on Even as the main light source... Im that guy who puts up a 2K open face as a main source 😁 It doesn't really even have anything to do with CRI either I've always felt happier with more tungsten units at an almost no price than only one or two really good LED units Love to get a 120D but I'm going to stick with my tungsten units 😉😉
  9. I like my red heads I refuse
  10. Hey Everyone Scrims especially singles and doubles always seem like such fragile materials and extra care is always good for them, thankfully I've not damaged any as of yet but if your textiles gets damaged, other than attempting to sew new ones together yourself what other options are out there? Are there any local UK companies that will happily rebuild textiles onto the frames you already own at a better cost than buying one all over again? I haven't heard of any would love to know! Thanks -Samuel
  11. They usually have weird incerts between the crates, Not quite the same thing but thanks sir! Thought of this, I did make some apple boxes just a few weeks ago, But they are very heavy
  12. I ended up getting 4 from Backstage carts they will keep me going for now but these look awesome to be honest! Stacking smaller ones on larger ones sounds useful already have ideas for that! Thank you Phil!
  13. Thanks so much for this, Them Frames looks great! As you said shame I can't seem to find them! I guess glass dichroic filter (CTB) are the best option but expensive ofcourse. It's really interesting you mention how Rosco is thinner than LEE because I've heard it the other way around but noted!
  14. Was hoping there was going to be a clever rule of thump like anything 2k and ip tugnsten you need High Temp But still Thanks for this!
  15. Hey Everyone Not an expert with Gels alwasy used them on Barn Doors but recently tried to put inbetween a 800w Tunsgten Open face, That is 201 CTB LEE and Rosco E+ no Surprise it warped and buckled until it pretty much melted 30 seconds in I heard you can put gels Inbetween barndoors on fresnels 5k and down but that must be HMI's only, I guess one can not simply put gels in front of Open Faced Tungsten units no matter the gel used I looked up SuperGel but was surprised?? In it's specifications it says it has a lower Melting Point than Rosco E+ despite SuperGel being the High Tem
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