Travis Shannon

For color accuracy I’d really recommend the tvlogic route, for something in that size the vfm-058 and 055 are both solid picks and the 055 is also an oled. As a focus puller I love the 703 because of it’s size and feature set but I’d never really want to light off of it.

Building on Baltasar’s comment a clamp on straight to 138 would also be very useful for close up diopter work, that’s something I would definitely add to my kit.

Is it single stage only?

Alexis Zabe shot The Florida Project on 35mm.

Yup, my experience to a T. Also if anyone on this thread is interested, the specialty lens rental house Old Fast Glass (@old_fast_glass) is hosting a discussion on their Instagram tomorrow 5/26 at 5:30pst on their new set of rehoused Canon glass that was used on AotD as well as the cinematography of the film, might pick up some fun facts.

I watched it last night and I wouldn’t call the focus dead on every time by a long shot, I’m a focus puller by trade but even my friends that aren’t in film were complaining about how shallow and often out things were. Lots of questionable splits and on the fly corrections as well, something tells me Zack isn’t an easy guy to pull for.

There’s a 4 perf moviecam superamerica on eBay for 3500 right now- bncr mount but still pretty hard to beat for that price.

I think Charles Pickel over at Serious Gear can do it but I haven’t personally spoken to him about it so not 100 percent on that.

In my experience Tvlogic will be the most accurate of the around 1k brands, echoing what others have said here in that Atomos and smallhd are super solid picks for high bright but tend to sacrifice color and tonal accuracy for a high nit count, if you’re looking for the absolute full stop for an on camera calibrated monitor Flanders makes a 9inch that’s pretty heavy but also dead on and can be sent to FSI for lifetime calibrations, this is also the most expensive option. Personally I’d be looking at tvlogic VFM-058 or 55s for 5 inch or tvlogic LVM-074 for a 7 inch, also smallhd has somewhat recently added a setting called studio mode which isn’t really any more accurate but tends to tone down the more egregious settings.

Hi! So as a first AC myself it’s a little worrisome that some of that gear is out of the umbrella of expertise for your AC, there really isn’t anything here I would consider “specialized gear” so without wanting to throw anybody’s name on the line I might start reaching out to other AC’s that would also be willing to jump on the prep or at least has solid answers for your gear based inquiries. Also as an AC it’s so important for me to hammer home the importance of a good camera prep, this is where you find out if all of your gear can talk, write, shoot, heck even turn on- there’s a reason most preps are done over the course of a day or at the least a half day, I get that Adorama isn’t renting the camera body but I’d still consider asking if you can prep there (a lot of places will do this and just charge you a prep fee). Given your concerns with the package going out it seems doubly worrisome that it really isn’t getting prepped either, now let’s get to the important stuff which are your questions: I'm worried about the camera potentially shutting down while hot swapping as it will drop to 90W momentarily As long as the mini has ~11.2 volts going into the body with that aks setup you’re good, the drop off can be substantial when you pull one brick off but it usually leaves you in the low 12s assuming you’re not waiting until the last minute to change batts, as long as you don’t walk around in the middle of a hotswap and get a coffee you’ll probably be fine, and sharkfins are for hot swapping so battery changes should be expeditious anyway. The last thing I’ll say is that 90w batteries aren’t small but aren’t huge either and can drain pretty fast on a fully rigged camera so maybe ask your agent for some 150s I am planning on running my small hd monitors from their own goldmount batteries (they come w/ gold mount plates), but wasn't sure if I'd also be able to power my teradeks simultaneously using the dtap I’m assuming these are handheld as I didn’t see a size so yes, your batteries (I’d use the hyperslims on monitor obviously) will totally be able to power the teradek rx, that’s what the d taps are there for- obviously as you increase the draw battery power goes down but you won’t overdraw and short or anything. As for your questions about motor/lens setup this is where the beauty of the prep comes in, you’re right in wondering if the bus cable on the wcu is long enough as my biggest gripe with the wcu system is lack of cable length/angle options and you should definitely check it out before you leave. Also your gear list has no mention of support that I saw so I assume you have that squared away but always good to check. Good luck with your shoot, and if you’re in LA and need a first AC for anything feel free to reach out.

Does exposure count? Producers have been trying that one for years.

Les Bosher is your best bet.

Transylvania Film and Tv Corp in Burbank have specialized in tripod repair for some years now and are kind of the gold standard in the LA market at least.

This was the hardest I’ve laughed all week.

The orange sync light staying on definitely leads me to believe the motor needs some degree of work, I can also vouch for Bernie as he fully CLA’ed my ACL 1. Jaeger connectors are a pain but get in contact with Jean Louis Seguin on this forum, he just made two new jaeger to xlr cables for my ACL not more than three months ago or so. Good luck, it’s a fun little camera.