Eirik Heim

Hi, I have been shooting with a Hasselblad 501 CM for some years and collected some lenses.Bought the 50mm, 80mm, 150mm and 250mm quite cheap. Anyone tried a v system mount adapter to PL on an Alexa sensor camera? Or other newer digital cameras? What do you think? Shims? The adapters are not that expensive.

Hi, I am a cinematographer who also own two camera packages, different lens packages and what is needed to do short films and some commercial productions as well. Seems like I will be delivering equipment to a small tv-series in Northern Norway. While I love working with something like a O’Connor 2575 and Ronford Baker high and low legs plus hi-hat, that is hard to use in other productions I do mostly with a much smaller crew and sometimes a one to two man band crew. I might get a great deal on something like a Miller Cineline 70 with two set of legs or combolegs. Anyone tried higher end Miller tripods? Only used a small one a long time ago with a dslr.. Other suggestions? I would love Mitchell base or 150mm bowl or option for both. The grip I work with most of the time uses Mitchell. Payload: I have a Arri Alexa Mini and a Red Epic W with Arri cages. I have a set of the new Cooke Panchros and Atlas Orion. Normally have the usual stuff mounted like cforce motors, on board monitor, wireless video transceiver, v-lock batteri and so on. I do have a Manfrotto Tripod as well which I can use instead on one man band stuff which has a good head, just not that good legs.

Hi, I think I am good. I am quite certain I know what caused the flickering afterwards. There were several pictures on the location and they all hade very old "led strips" to light each one up. And I am quite certain they were on when I was checking the light bulbs for flickering, and that they caused the flickering. The light bulbs did not flicker at all, it was the walls and other parts like the floor. They were off when we filmed. I should be good. The bulbs them self are tungsten. I looked trough both a Fuji 100s and a Alexa Mini with 24 fps and 180 degrees shutter, during the filming and I did not see any flickering then. But as you say, I could remove it with a flicker plugin in. I have calmed down again, quite stressed there for a second. Since I recorded the flickering, I took some time just to see if they are easy to remove. And yes, no problem, and that was with heavy compressed H265. Should be no problem with the scans, if I am wrong and they have flickering. I do not think they have flickering.

Thanks for all the tips! Shot the short now and it was a really good experience! The Director was also satisfied. Think I am good exposure and focus wise, and happy with the framing. I might have made one mistake though. We had some practicals that was one the location. 4 lamps on the wall, not Led. I looked trough my viewfinder on my mirror less camera and an Arri Alexa mini and could observe not flickering with the same settings. With all the lights on the set powered on. We had 2 x 1Ks on the outside of the window, 2 x 800W on the other side lighting from another room, two other lights in the front out to the left just to lift the shadows a bit. But afterwards, when I looked through the same cameras, with only the practicals lit, there was slow movering flickering. Hard to notice though. Do I have a problem or did the artificial lights overpower the practicals and no flickering? I shot at 24 fps and 180 degrees, and yes I should have had 172,8/ 1/50th shutter. But I could not see any flicker chechinkg the lights with everything on…

Thanks for the tips. I have an experienced 1st AC who has shot film many times before. Which is nice. I will stay between 2,8 - 4 int and 4 - 5,6 ext. Going to use my own Cooke Panchro I/classics. I will of course also use NDs as well. Just mentioning the 85 filter because of the three shots I have planned in daylight. Instead of buying a roll of daylight balanced film for thoose. Agree with metering at 400 when shooting int? Will be using tungsten fixtures.

Hi, Will be shooting my first short film on 35mm the upcoming week. I feel comfortable about it, but still just wanted to make a post to see if there are something I have forgot to think about. Tips and tricks etc. I live in Northern Norway, and we rearly shoot analog, except when I go out to shoot some stills. Looking forward to this one! I have my own Arri Alexa Mini package with a WCU 4 and cforce motors including a RF motor. We will be renting the Arricam LT for this shoot and use the RF that will get power from the camera. It has a HD video assist, and as of my understanding, it is good enough to judge critical focus? It will be one int location except three shots. Small lighting packages (almost nothing around here). Will be shooting everythinn og Kodak Vision 3 500T and use a 85 filter for the three shots outside. Thinking of metering at ISO 400 for the interior to overexpose a litle bit, and 320/250 when using the 85 filter outside. Should I overexpose more? Something special to keep in mind? Meter the talents with the incident meter and check the lighting ratio and keep it concistent. Check the frame with a bit of spot metering to keep it inside the dynamic range. Any tips and tricks? Thinking of bringing a litle mirrorless camera and look trough it sometimes to check settings.

Hi, I am a cinematographer based in Northern Norway. I am looking into acquiring a bigger monitor for on set use and as a grade monitor at my office. I have an older 25 OLED reference monitor from Sony that is about 4 years old. I did a lot of grading before, but seldom anymore. Mostly for my cinematography work, LUTs and for checking out my footage. I have been looking at both SmallHD and Atomos. Will the Sumo 19 do a sufficient job? It is mostly to have a bigger than 7" inch screen available on set and there are no rental houses around here. Since I do not grade anymore, I was thinking of selling the OLED and just what I buy now for the small amount of grading I will do in the future.