Franklin De Los Santos

These look good, nothing odd about them if that’s the look you are going for(warm). The shot where the subject is wearing a pink jacket has two varieties, cool/warm. The cool looks a little more balanced. Is the colorist experienced? What exactly do you want the colorist to do if you are baking in the look?

$1800

I’m in Culver City, selling this ballast which probably has less than an hour of use. I just did some testing on it. Asking for $2100

New Price: $2500

Sold

Price reduced: $2800, Los Angeles/Culver city

Bump

Only used it for testing at home, never had a chance to use it, it’s basically new(see photos). Asking for $1200 I’m in Culver City, CA

Forgot to mention, I’m located in Los Angeles, the listing is also available on ebay.

The light is 300w and the framing shutter projector is basically new. asking for $3100 for everything OBO.

Let’s not forget the joleko, I can probably get just as much output with it than having to buy a new light like the aputure 1200d. I’d rather stick to buying a new bulb for $150.

Bump, price reduced to $2800. I’m located in LA

What you see is what you get, the fresnel lens has a burn mark on it but otherwise it’s a great setup. Bug a Beam adapter with 36(new) and 50 degree lens. Asking for $3400

Nevermind, household bulbs don’t have a power supply, in layman terms, they basically mimic incandescent bulbs so they all(the dimmable ones) should work with the Variac, and indeed I tested some of my other house hold led bulbs succefully.

Guess what I just found out? These work with a Variac! That’s crazy, looks like GE did something, it also works with my satco LEDs, but not with the film specific ones like the astera nyx. Will have to ask a family member who is an electrical engineer to explain, I’m a different kind of engineer unfortunately, really curious

Did you end up doing anything with the bulbs?

To know more about what Mullen is talking about, I recommend you read up on why the sun rays that hit earth are parallel, once you have that, everything else is kindergarten. here is a wiki article: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanbury_Brown_and_Twiss_effect And here is a physics stack exchange explanation: https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/155075/what-makes-suns-light-travel-as-parallel-beams-towards-earth

Ok I’ll give you a straight answer instead of yapping around: Aputure 600D should do it. If you have a money tree, One of: Arri M18 Joker 800/1600 Dedolight PB70

Yes, you lead me to my experiment, pulling it back a bit worked, but aligning it like that is tough. This lead me to look at pics of other jolekos online and saw a difference. Thanks

Turns out they sent me the wrong ring adapter, this one doesn’t have stoppers so the old joker slides into the ring further than it should. I did a test and pulled it out a little and bam, no hotspot! Waiting on a new ring adapter

Tried and had the lamp in dead center, I think that’s just how it is with joleko, unless someone can confirm I’m wrong about it.

I was wondering if it is normal. I’m gonna re-assemble it, and try different lamps and keep that in mind. But I think it was set all the way.

I have an 800w joleko, recently did the conversion for the first time and my 50 degree lens has a hot spot, I also have a newer EDLT lens 36 degree and also has a very apparent hotspot, is this just the norm? I’m very disappointed if this is the case, was hoping for a more even beam. Yes, I have the Bug A Beam adapter with the extension.

The beam angle is narrower yes. I also have a 36 inch ring with regular bulbs and it just spills light all around, I prefer these. Lens is the same

Yeah, here is what I built: