Ale Reynoso

Thank you! Finally shot: The flourescents worked quite well. Although the budget was low, thats why the tubes only, I found them usefull (and efficient regarding power comsumption) to get a simulated soft window source. We arranged three banks of 4 tubes each properly flagged (two 1.2m, 4 feet, and one 0.6m, 2 feet) enough to get around f2.8 in a EX-1 with a RedRock Encore and Nikon 50mm set at 1.4, shooting 720p (not as sharp but noticeably more sensivity than 1080p) at a distance of 6m more or less. Used some other tubes for another small "window" and 2K fresnels with CTB for "touchs". Thank you Alejandro

Hi: Thanks for the reply. Of course safety (of equipment and people) is first. And may be we can afford a small jib arm after all, but wondering if someone had an interesting (and safe) idea. (i.e.) not exactly a "jib shot", more like a smooth hadheld, but I read that Christopher Doyle used the camera hanging from bungee cord to slowly move it down to a table in an interrogatory room in "Paranoid Park". Best regards Alejandro

Hi: Is there any example of a jib shot made really easy and cheap? We need to swing up an SR for the ending shot of a short, but a jib arm is getting out of the budget. We need to start in a close up with the camera facing almost all the way down and raise it a little, perhaps no more than 1.5m or 2m...links to a creative solution photo? Thank you!! Best regards Alejandro

Keep in mind that the Sony Z1 is rated as ISO 160-200. Make calculations of how much light do you need for a decent stop (at full zoom you loose the widest aperture of the wide angle end). See where you can put your lights, if you will use diffusion, etc. and use the photometric tables of the lamps to figure out wich ones. Good luck!! Alejnadro

It´s a common practice to use a DSLR as a reference. An important aspect is HOW are you going to meter the scene...let the camera "matrix" metering do the work? I would use the spotmeter and start with metering a gray card as a starting point. May be the DSLR is not such a good reference if you´re looking for the extremes in the highlights and shadows, but a good reference for the overall exposure. The negative could hold detail in highlight or shadows and your camera could be unable to show it (anyway you could set the base exposure and then "aim" to the highlights and/or shadows to spotmeter them. Always from the camera position. Now you can determine how "hot" a highlight is comparing to the base exposure). Another issue is the sensivity you are really getting in your camera. If the camera is an HS or EBM with the prism system for viewing, you are cutting at least 1/3 of a stop to the film (i.e. if you´re using ISO 500 film you should use ISO 400 in your exposure meter). You should perform tests to evaluate the correlation between the DSLR sensivity and the effective sensivity you´re getting of the lens+prism+shutter combination (I think the HS shutter is something like 165º). So light a gray card evenly and USING YOUR DSLR (in spotmeter or covering the entire card, make sure everything is zeroed) meter the card. Using the same sensivity in the DSLR than the label of the can as a starting point. Now roll a couple of feet at "normal" exposure (the f number showed in the DSLR) and over and underexposing in 1/3 of a stop steps up and down to 1 1/2 stops (better to hold the same f number in the film camera and move the lights instead: you´re cutting the iris adjustment error). Make shure you label every gray card (N, + 1/3, + 2/3, etc. or (i.e.) ISO 500, ISO 400, ISO 320, etc.) Take the roll to the lab and make them tell you wich is the right exposure. Use that in your DSLR. You should use 1/48s for 24 fps (1/50 in your camera). It would be a good idea to check the lens too (if the same aperture in the different lens give you the same exposure)... If it´s not possible just do the maths, substract 1/3 for the prism, and may be 1/3 for the shutter angle (165º is not even a 1/3, but better to overxpose tha sub) to the film ISO to rate the camera. Ideally recheck the DSLR meter with a trusted spotmeter. Good luck! Best regards.

Thanks a lot...I will start my homework with the location plans. Best regards

Thank you! I was thinking in a couple o small 1.2 or a 2.5K. I´m not fighting direct sunlight as the interiors are pretty dark. So the main difference will be the reach of the light? Assuming I´m getting the same output from the two different sources. Best regards Alejandro

Hello. I´m preparing out an indie short (not defined if HD or 16mm). I´m trying to be as efficient and practical as I can with the lighting package. In some day interiors I figured out to use a frame with some diffusion (silk?) in a window exterior and light through it with an HMI for a soft but powerfull source, but it´s expensive for our budget. Will I get the same effect if I just use a “wall” of fluorescent tubes (like an arrange of 3x3 or 4x2 fixtures? The combination that matches the HMI through silk regarding light output). May be with a light diffusion to blend them all? I feel may be I don´t get the same “punch”. Sometimes I hear complains about how the fluorescent renders. Or is this regarding colour rendition over HMI and tungsten? Thank you Alejandro

Hi! What about setting up some simple fixtures with the same tubes as in the ceiling? Best regards Alejandro

So good luck with your plan!!!!! See you Alejandro

Ask Klemens. Mention my name and this post. He is a very kind person. Klemens Hufnagl<klemens.hufnagl@gmx.at>, Best regards from Buenos Aires Alejandro

¿?...Hello! I started my post saying..."shoul I rate the scool only referring to the students work..." I can easilly assume that if someone as student is way too good, the school should have some credit (but anyway I could be wrong). As I told, Cata, David and Klemens work was outstanding... But you should know the school better than me being from Austria. And that was the question from Malik...so, isn´t the school that good? Best regards Alejandro

Nice job!!! Best regards Alejandro

By the way...what were you doing? a feature?, which one?...

I don´t know much of the world, but probably Bariloche is my place on earth... Best regards!!! Ale