Shane C Collins

Hi Simon, thanks for chiming in! Last year I read a post, similar to mine, where someone mentioned the new stock seemed darker after processing. That same person used the the auto setting with no compensation. I really think the new Ektachrome is better exposed around 80 ASA. I don't know it just needs extra light for some reason. As I mentioned above it seems less sensitive to light. It certainly has a larger latitude than the previous version. And yes I realize the Bolex isn't as bright as say a projector with 150 watts but it's still pretty bright even at 75 watts. I use the Osram HLX bulb and seem to get about 10% more light. Also the prime lens seem to help. The first Ektachrome cartridge I shot when this came out in 2018 was darker. I used a projector with 150 watts to view it and the film was very dark in the shadows. Once I made the correction of opening the aperture 1 stop the film really shined through.

I felt compelled to relate my recent experience with Kodak's new Ektachrome 100D color reversal Super 8 film. I shot a roll on Mother's Day and just got the film back. I projected it on my Bolex 18-5L Super with prime lens. The results were stunning! No I don't have a digital copy to share as I only project. I do have a recommendation for anyone shooting this new stock. This is my fourth roll of Ektachrome to date. Something I discovered early on was this stock needs some extra light. It is not as sensitive as the old stock it replaces. So here's what I did. I opened the aperture on my Super 8 camera by one f-stop. I did this for every scene I shot both outside and inside near a living room window. When I projected the movie today the results were perfect! That extra bit of light did the trick. I used the same procedure last year when I shot a roll near the beach, and had the same perfect results. This new stock is really stunning when projected! The grain is low, with nice contrast, colors, and sharpness. I think it's the best film to date, but as stated it needs that extra bit of light to really shine through.

A camera without a working light meter, whether it be the auto-exposure or manually setting the aperture is not something you really want to use. With the cost of film these days you really need a reliable camera that has a working meter. It makes filming so much easier. There are hundreds of good working Super 8 cameras for sale these days. If this was me I'd start looking for a better camera. I can highly recommend the Elmo Super 110. This is a nice camera to use. Dates from the early to mid 70's. No separate light meter batteries to worry about. I've shot several rolls of Ektachrome 100D color reversal in this camera and the results are stunning! Also one of the quietest cameras you will find. Anyways that's my honest opinion. You did indicate it was a thrift store find so you must have not paid all that much for it?

Are you pointing the camera at a light source? Sometimes you can't see the f-scale until there's more light in the viewfinder. Just a thought! Someone who owns own of these might be able to enlighten us more.

Here's another screen-shot from the brochure. It shows the viewfinder with f-stop numbers. However it doesn't indicate whether there's an arrow or something similar that points at the current f-stop. I'd say once you rotate to manual mode, and look through the finder at the same time, while rotating, you'll figure that out.

Also you should be able to see the f-stop numbers when you look through the viewfinder. Once the dial is free to turn, look through the viewfinder and rotate this dial until you see the f-stops change. There's probably a line or arrow that points to the current setting.

I found this sales brochure that Nikon put out when this camera was new. I circled the switch (orange) where you can change the aperture from automatic to manual mode. That dial probably rotates so you can set the f-stops. Hope this helps.

Thanks Andries for the information! I had no idea this was the case. I'll stick with Ektachrome 100D then!

Has anyone tried Kahl UT 18 color reversal 50 ASA Super 8 film? It's suppose to be similar to the new Ektachrome 100D. I read about this film today but never heard about it before. On8mil a film company in the UK is selling this stock and other's as well. I thought about buying a roll and trying it out to see how the colors, and grain compare to Ektachrome. The only problem is I don't really want to send it back to the UK for processing. I'm in the US so shipping to and back would probably take weeks. I wonder if anyone here in the US could process this film? I'm assuming it's E-6? Here's a link to the Kahl UT 18 https://www.on8mil.com/product/kahl-super-8-film-ut-18-incl-film-processing/

Thanks Jurgen I figured something was up!

Now that this site is working it seems I can't access the 8mm forum over at Film Tech. Anyone else having that issue? I've tried for 2 days and the URL will not load. Good to see filmshooting back up and running!

Great interview Jurgen! A very enjoyable read as all your articles are!

I'm not sure about the Canon 814 but here's what I can tell you. I shoot Super 8 using an Elmo Super 110 from the early 70's. The auto-meter is spot on any time I use it. The films I get back from the lab always project with good lighting and sharpness. It really depends on how the camera was stored, used, etc. Some camera electronics age better than others. In the case of my Elmo the light meter has aged quite well. I would shoot a test roll using the auto light meter and see what happens. Project your film and that should give you an idea if the meter is performing correctly. Or you could use a external meter and compare it side by side to the meter in your camera. In other words point both the external meter and the cameras meter at something and see what F-stops your getting from both.

There's a gentleman in Yuma, AZ who repairs and services Bolex regular 8mm cameras only. He will service many of the B-series, C-series, two D-series, and P1, P2, and P3 cameras. For other cameras I'm not sure but there are probably services worldwide. http://www.bolexrepair.com/camrep.html

Right and that's basically the difference. The P2 having a shorter zoom lens and a different focusing mechanism. But other than that the results on screen should be the same as the P1 and P3. After I have my P2 serviced and can get some film I'll report back. That probably won't be until Summer. I was ready to order the new Ektachrome 100D for regular 8 but it's already sold out. So I'll be waiting for a restock, etc.