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Luuk Schröder

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  1. Hi There, I am currently editing a super8 film with a Minette S5 editor and a CIR 8mm splicer. With this particular setup the film is loaded into the Minette editor with the sprockets facing away form me, while splicing the film should be done with the sprockets towards me... This turned my workflow into a bit of a scramble. I decided to first mark the whole film that needs to be cut and then make the actual splices. As I don't have that much experience editing, I was wondering if some of you would like to share your analog super8 editing workflow? Thank you!
  2. Hi Ed, The problem I have is that the mechanism sometimes completely stops, with or without film. So this seems different from what you are describing. The way to fix my problem is by pushing the claw mechanism forwards, not at the film gate, but in one of the corners (see image, blue circle). Perhaps you could try to change the claw pressure by adjusting the screws?
  3. Hi there, I've been shooting ektachrome 100d on a nizo 561 macro without the filter. I haven't considered making an adjustment to my light meter readings and up till now the footage has come out to my liking. I think for this film I used the auto exposure to check and set it to manual aperture based on the initial reading. Hope that helps!
  4. Ah I see, that makes it clear, thank you!
  5. Hi Bernhard, just out of interest, what do you mean when you mention the 'Lee' you use for the Leicina cameras you have?
  6. To check the light meter battery charge you can press the small red (?) button on the exposure knob. The dial should then point to the '8', if it is above or below you need to change the batteries.
  7. Hi there, kind of.... the film transport claw tends to get stuck sometimes. It still happens but by now I know how to make the camera function again when it happens. Also I managed to get a second Nautica ^^
  8. Hello, I've shared the manuals here: Nautica manual
  9. And thanks for the video, good information to have here.
  10. Hi Ed, yes I'd be happy to send you the service manual. Could you message me your email address? It's in pdf and the filesize is too big to attach here.
  11. A few people have asked the same question, so if you search around you might get a more detailed answer. But in general it's fine, vision3 reacts well to a slight over exposure. I used it in a Canon 1024 that also shot at 400ASA and it worked well.
  12. Hi Mark, I see, then it's the splicer, not myself. If it works in the projector I don't mind. Also, I often make scans before editing, so it hasn't been a problem yet. But interesting to think of it in relation to the safe action and safe title standards. I'll have a go on the cement splicer as well, and see how that works for me.
  13. Ah, my mistake, the splices are visible because of the film editor's framing. It shouldn't be visible on a projector...
  14. Hello, I just started splicing and editing some of my films with a CIR splicer I bought (it's the 'de luxe new matrix' one: https://van-eck.net/en/product/cir_8mm_splicer_-_super8-single8_-2/). With each splice I can see a tiny light strip in the film editor, as two film ends just don't seem to touch. It also happens when I attempt to push the films slightly closer to each other before using the tape. Somehow I do not remember this happened with other splicers... is this normal?
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