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Sune Bang Ingemann

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
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    Copenhagen

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  1. Are they really that soft compared to MK II/ MK III ? I actually wanted Ultra Primes, but the rental house couldn't give a student discount deal on those. Oh well, I'll do some testing. In regards to DoF, 2 stops more, was what I came to as well. Thanks for the answers
  2. Hey, So if focus is determined by Front pupil diameter (Should we say film/sensor plane for practical purposes) and distance to subject, what is the rule of thumb for DoF on S16 compared to S35? This of course assumes that i'm 1-to-1 just using 2x wider lenses to achieve the same FoV. The context is that I'm shooting a short on S16 with B-speeds, and wanna keep them at 1.3 T-stop to avoid the triangular nature of the bokeh. That made me wonder, how much of a task i'm asking of my 1st AC, compared to shooting 1.3 T-stop on a S35 sensor. I'm not really interested in getting sucked into the whole scientific part of it, more if old timers had some rule of thumbs from back in the day. Best regards
  3. Thanks David. The plan is to create ambience outside with bounced light thorugh diffusion. The plan was to use CTB'ed tungsten, but with the current energy crisis in europe and the cost of a single KwH it might be cheaper to use HMI'S, so the gaffer will sit down in excel and figure it out. It'll be shot on the mini LF which i almost always rate at 800 (sometimes i meter for 500, but less and less these days) and shot somewhere between 2.0-2.8, so it's more about getting the right contrast between the ambience and the direct sunglight than exposure, so a very big source might be nessecary. Best regards
  4. Thank you for your reply, Do Dinos really create multiple shadows? I've worked with as a lighting technitian, where we blasted one through each window on a overcast day, and I thought it looked very nice. Best regards
  5. I'm shooting a scene on stage soon, me and the director wants some punchy, warm light sources to break up the ambient and leave gobo shaped (Window frames mostly) on the floor. Budget is pretty limited (Short film) so I think it have to be tungsten. In my mind I'm thinking between Regular 5ks (Or bigger) Dino lights - Question for substitution in the bottom. Mole Richardson Do you guys have any other lamps that would be nice to test out? As a young cinematographer I don't have a ton of experience with big tungsten sources. If Dino lights are too expensive, wouldn't you be able to just rig 6-9 par cans and shoot through the same diffusion, and stil create the illusion of "1 big source" ? Best regards
  6. Thank you guys for the responses. I realized I never replied. The question was in regards to a shoot where I was doing a blue hour scene at the end of one day. The producer wanted to know when exactly we could press record on the scene so I was going out every evening with my meter and checking the time (Didn't want to trust the apps). The scene was handheld and two shots that needed to be cut together. I wanted to now exactly how long I could shoot the scene for. It was Mini-LF and Ultra primes, I didn't want to push above 800 ASA because ... I'm a wuss ? I gave myself som lee-way by starting with a 0.3 nd and T 2.8 and underexposing the whole scene by 1 stop from the begging, I'd readjust exposure according to my lightmeter between every take. By keeping the scene under exposed by one stop, and going throwing the ND and stopping down 2,0, I had around 20 minutes of very even, very nice blue hour scene, with some minor background change (Live in Scandinavia, so we have some long days in the summer). I like to use my meter when underexposing, as I never really know how well calibrated the monitors are, so I am a bit nervous of living and dying by the lut. It worked, but maybe it was a bit convoluted. A lot of this becomes second nature with experience I guess. In regards to the spot meter your answers makes perfect sense. It's nice to know. Thank you
  7. Spot metering is meassuring reflected light levels so of course a face, wall, car etc. will reflect a certain amount of light, but the sky is miles upon miles away. I suppose i am just metering the reflection of "air". Say I wanna do the zone system on a blue hour scene with both some forground and the horizon as the background. Could i just point the spot meter at the sky and trust the numbers? Best regards
  8. My friend color corrected a roll of 16mm tungsten stock (500T i think) in post. You can see it here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CBH_kDkhqO9/ Some DP's prefer not to use an 85 filter. Chivo as an example says that it "homogenizes the color" (Qoute from Tree of Life article in ASC magazine). The thing is that these DP's have world class post infrastructure with some of the best graders in the world, combined with extensive testing. I would guess you don't have the same luxury. If this is a low budget thing then i don't think you should worry about this, and just use an 85. There are bigger fish to fry ... That being said I would recommend using Resolve' printer light hot keys feature to color correct. I find it to be the most intuitive way to color correct 16 mm (Haven't done 35).
  9. I found a reseller that has the strengths 1, 2, 3, 4, and even 5, the filters might be quite old. On Tiffens own website I can only find from 1/8 to 1. The strength 5 seems so strong that I find it hard to believe that it was ever massed produced. I was wondering if they used to go the strengths 1-5, instead of 1/8 to 1? I'm looking for 4x5.65 sizes btw. Best regards
  10. https://www.yedlin.net/ResDemo/index.html and https://www.yedlin.net/OnColorScience/index.html
  11. Hey, I just wanted to get back to you. I found an assortment of rubber grommets at the local car store, and one fitted perfectly! Unfortunately, it's height made it press down on the memory button under it. I had to cut off the bottom, to stop this from happening. This made it not sit secure, as there was no space between the top and buttom layer to "pop" in anylonger. I decided to do it the fast and ugly way, and glue it firm. Afterwards i have used black paper tape to cover it. It works perfectly! Thank you Phillip!
  12. Okay, I know this might be REALLY stretching it, but I thought that if there is anywhere online where someone has encountered this before, it would be here. I persume that the build of the 758D is very similar to the cine version, so if anyone has tried it with that one, let me know. The "Rubbery plastic flap" that covers the "memory" area fell off my beloved meter recently. Assume just because of old age. Now, the thing is that there is a gaping whole into the meters electronics. Searching for any replacements parts has been futile. Basicly I just want a way to cover up the hole, I never use memor function anyway. I thought about covering it up with adhesive putty or gluing some thick plastic over it to seal it up.. Has anyone ever experienced this and solved it? This meter is my most priced possession, so I'm willing to go quite far to fix it. Best of love
  13. There will always be a crowd for art films and, at least in Europe, there will always be funding. There seems to be a consensus that audiences today are more used to faster pacing, cuts, movement of camera etc. Google "David Bordwell intensified continuity" if you want a more academic take on it. I think that streaming will greatly help preserve som of that "auteur" spirit, "Twin Peaks The Return" surely ticks a lot of the boxes you mention. Recently Amazon Prime released "Too Old To Die Young" By Nicolas Refn with Darius Khondji as the main cinematographer and that show has ridiculously slow pans, tilts and zooms that can seem tedious even for "art film lovers". Some of the producers might not always like it though:
  14. Surprised no one mentioned 'Blue Ring Gaffer's Glass' for keeping an eye on the sun when shooting outside.
  15. @Stuart Brereton Uncoated lenses increase halation on digital as well? Very interesting. @Giray Izcan Yes of course. The wish for uncoated lenses are the entire look. I was wondering on the differences in contrast reduction from uncoated lenses vs contrast filters. It seems now that the question is probably a bit too schematic.
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