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Dimitrios Koukas

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About Dimitrios Koukas

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  • Birthday 04/15/1969

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  • Location
    Athens, Greece, London UK
  • Specialties
    Lighting design, aerial cinematography, music and airplanes.

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  1. You need to go only with the lenses you are sure that are in focus and drop the others for this production, or use higher t-stops when possible. And ok sometimes focusing thru the viewfinder is reliable, but what if you have to use a POLA and one 85N3? You won't be able to see much of your image thru this...
  2. Hello, The only thing that is quiet noticable in Jordan's video is that it's been litted overhead (you can see this by the shadows in the general shots). Is it possible for you to use the excisting lights? Do you need a lot of footcandles? I mean do you have slow motion shots? If not, use the overhead court lights (some of them) only to light the court and not the audience seats. Are you going to schedule it for daytime? Or you are shooting at night? Is there any daylight coming in that you need to cut out? Can you post a photo of the court?
  3. Nice work Ricky, I liked the ''cold'' look all the way. Pretty nice handling of the snow scenes and the night exteriors. Also liked the way your main character was lit, half bright and half dark as his personality. ;)
  4. Hi, As you well know from my previous posts I am not doing very well in explainning things :) , I am just having a weird green frame bug in my timeline and both in my rendered material, but not in trimmer window, or from an external player like VLC, when I am playng the file. Only happens when in timeline and after exporting the material. It was shot with Sony XDCAM and files were grabbed for FCP (.mov) and then converted back to MXF. The production company have re-writed/formated the blu-rays !! so now this is all I ve got to work. Any help would be appreciated. I ve tried in Vegas 8.0, 9.0 and 10.0 but with no results.
  5. Sorry for my bad English Alejandro, yes we are saying the same... There are many more factors that can affect the measurment, but it's just an advice for a quick setup. Even if I manage to have a wrong rating let's say 1/3 of an f/stop down this will make me rate a camera that is 800 ISO to 700 or something? I believe that I can make my shoot even with this.? Sorry for not beeing so accurate. Dim
  6. Dimitrios Koukas


    Let's make a tube camera then... Now that we don't have any software to do this... ;)
  7. Most of the times if you have an even lit gray card and a full frame of it, auto iris will not give you a measurment that is not more than 1/3 of an f/ stop up-down. 1/3 is a big difference if you are stating this, but it's very rare to get this false reading... :) And yes, I am not talking for a gray card that has been exposed to sunlight for three years... Dim
  8. If your DP has to do lighting plots, set up studio scenes and he cannot be there, just shoot on a gray card and press auto iris to get an f-stop, then rate it. Measure the reflected light from the card with a spotmeter or reflex meter, this will give you the ''iso'' for this measure. Then use this ISO to set-up your lighting plots. Otherwise, Mr David Williams is right, just use the on camera meter. Especially for landscapes. I am not using the cameras meter though, I am just using the zebra settings or a waveform to have a continuity between my scenes. E.g: 67% on actors face. Dim
  9. Dimitrios Koukas


    And what about the ''comet'' effect that you get shooting every single highlight?? I don't thing that you will never manage to reduce this. Dim
  10. Luis, What is the theme/scene? Is it only people? Is it a car? Do you have action? Stedicam? travellings? Dim
  11. Tiny suggestion... Shoot a frame of the background or some minute without the actor and green screen the close up. Dim
  12. Is it film? What ISO. Video HD? Which camera? Usually you will need 500 ISO tungsten if it is film, so you can have enough light from the installations that you can handle it. Try to get a permission to have access to all the lighting consoles for the robotcics/moving heads and if you are not familiar ask for the lighting person of the club to be there to help you setup some scenes, (it will be more quicker). If he or she cannot, then ask if you can see everything at least one day before the setup. Usually there is enough light for shooting, but the lights are all dimmed down, when the club is working so the owner can give the feelling he wants for his customers. So you can use the club lights to put your ''touch'' to the scene. Check how much light the club has with everything at 100% so you can get an idea what areas you need to fill or dim. I am uploading you some frames to see, that are three frames in a row so you can see the tremendous change in the scene... (sorry for the resolution).... Dim
  13. I see some tree-tops in the BG. How much overexpose for this? ;)
  14. Happy birthday from Greece David. :) All the best. Dim
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