Don H Marks

I don't have the gauge for the claw. I used a piece of film. The claw was too low so it was bent up a touch.

One of the sprockets was too high. I don't have the height measuring blocks, so I did some trial and error until it loaded smoothly.

This camera has the older style governor bucket. It needed to be cleaned and re-lubed. There are a lot of opinions of what to do here. This is my own personal camera and I used some moly lube and it works for me.

Inner workings are exposed. I remove the film counter to keep it from being damaged.

The removing these screws allows the mechamism to come out of the case. Press in the film cutter. Don't damage the film counter wheel on the way out.

The turret slides off the shutter blades. Be careful.

Remove the 6mm nut and the screws holding the turret.

Remove the reflex finder:

These screws need to come out:

Here it is ready to be opened. Lenses are removed.

Seems "BOLEX USA/PROCAM" no longer services Bolex. I got the response below yesterday:

Title made me think someone distributed your secret film on how to make an A-bomb and blow up a city..

The first time I saw this short film in the 1970s, it was verbally introduced as being shot on a Pathe camera. I always presumed it was 9.5. I guess I remembered it all these years as it was shot near where I was living at the time. What a blast from the past, I actually found it on YouTube. But no mention if it was indeed 9.5.

Thanks for the info on the Hulcher. I did find some additional info on a 120 version of the Hulcher's shutter: The camera is equipped with a rotary disk type shutter operating close to the focal plane. The opeining in this disk shutter may be varied from 3 to 70 degrees by means of a control knob, directly under the lens support.

Hold it over the spot meter on a gray target. Consider clamping the spot meter in place if the gray target is not uniform so the recording spot does not move when you place the filter in the light path.

folding screen?

The fastest 35mm still cameras were still only about 9 to 14 FPS.

https://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1065071&d=1722116490

Thanks for the replys. What was curious is that all the images from my Yvar 150mm repair uploaded, but when I went to upload the images from the Bolex 18-5 Projector repair, it indicated they were too big. Maybe I have reached some type of limit. I tried here but the pasted URL does not show up as an image. I'll try some other host... https://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1065071&d=1722116490

For some reason I can't upload images. Only 11 kb. That is like smaller than a thumbnail. Is this right? I can't even upload a sceenshot of what it is showing at the bottom of this text box. It reads:

I'm a film-only, still photographer, more so than movie maker. Stills from your movie stand alone as great photographs. Very nice work!!

Makes sense. Thank you. In the 1980s, most of the filmstock I shot in school was VNF, but moreso they were pushing "Video." So, when I graduated I had boxes of VHS and 3/4" magnetic tapes and only a few reels of 16mm.

Just curious about negative film usage in 2024. Of course I used to use negative film for a-b roll editing to make prints in the 1980s, but with scanning, is there any advantage to negative film?

I just got two rolls of the Foma 100 100ft 2x8 Reversal Double-8 which is used in Bolex H8 cameras. Seems like I could never find this in the 100ft rolls in USA and have been using the very wasteful 33ft rolls for the last few years. https://fomaobchod.cz/en/blackwhitereversalfilms/fomapanr100/fomapanr1002x8mm305bm[11803]?ItemIdx=4

Page 13 of the manual always works for me. "Real" speeds are how fast the shutter stops action "Adapted" speeds are the ones you would use with your meter. Just use the "Adapted" speeds from the table; there is no other 'compensation' needed.