Unearthed a camera from my schools production cages: Bolex H16 Rex 4 with a Vario Switar 86 f2.5 18-86mm EE lens attached

Truman Urness · February 7

I've been planning on shooting a short on 16mm this summer as a summer research opportunity through my school, I spent a lot of time trying to find a good deal through all the rental houses in LA until suddenly, I found this really high quality Bolex just sitting in our production closet.

only problem is I know absolutely nothing about shooting on 16 or using a bolex, which seems to be a sort of rite of passage in student filmmaking. I've been spending the whole day doing research on this camera and tracking down what model, how to operate it etc... but I still feel like I can barely grasp how to operate it. Are there any resources that I am missing? Ive been on bolexh16user, bolex collector, and a ton of threads on this page but I felt it may be best to post myself to get advice more directly. First question- how can I check that it's for sure working? I'm going to be purchasing film to figure it out but I'd love some advice to make sure I'm not wasting money. Secondly, can I get literally the VERY basics of shooting on film from anyone? There are so many other questions I have but just somewhere to start would be huge. Last question: I want to shoot on an anamorphic lens; any suggestions?

thanks so much!

Dom Jaeger · February 8

Congrats on finding such a great camera that you can use for free!

First step would be to read the manual, an actual Bolex one not the various college manuals you can find on the net that can contain misinformation. Here's one for the Rex 4:

https://www.vintagecameras.fr/images/MonSite/BOLEX/H16_Reflex/_Doc/Bolex_H16Reflex_Manual_en_Revu.pdf

Here's a thread about the 18-86 zoom, with some info about it:

https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/95617-ii-kern-paillard-vario-switar-125-f-18-86mm-ee-h-16-rx-maybe-vario-switar-86-f25-18-86mm-ee-battery-manual-question/

You'll want to get yourself some dummy film to practice loading, and check that the camera is running ok. Hopefully your college might have some old exposed or out-of-date film you can use, otherwise maybe ask a local lab. The Rex 4 uses 100 ft daylight spools.

Some things to check on the camera:

You should be able to wind up the spring, then run the camera at 24fps for about 28 seconds. Listen to the sound, most Bolexes slow down a bit in the last 5 seconds, especially when film is loaded. If the camera slows down very noticeably before that, it may need a service. You can still use cameras like this, but limit shots to shorter takes, and always wind the spring up before each shot.

When you run the camera, make sure that the take-up spindle (the lower one) is turning smoothly, not starting and stopping or sluggish. You should be able to hold it to stop it turning with one hand, then when you release it, it should spin again. If this doesn't happen, the camera needs a service. Sometimes a drop of oil under that spindle can help, but essentially if that spindle doesn't turn properly then the film won't take up and you'll end up with the film looking like spaghetti inside, un-useable.

You can remove that zoom by turning the knurled ring at the back anti-clockwise. I find it easier to have the camera facing up while undoing that ring, so the weight of the zoom isn't binding the mount thread.

Once the lens is off you can check the glass surface just behind the middle lens port. This is the reflex prism that sends a quarter of the light to the viewfinder. It should be clean and free from fungus. You can clean it with a tissue dipped in isopropyl alcohol or lens cleaner. If you rotate the turret out of the way you can flip the prism out to blow dust off the ground glass on top (use a lens blower), and maybe clean the rear surface as you would the front.

The turret should have a bottom port locking cap and a lock at the top right. You want both of those engaged when mounting a heavy zoom like this.

Practice loading your dummy film, and check that the loop stays in position. The take-up should wind the film on snugly.

Next step would be to shoot a quick test, if you want to make sure that you don't waste time and money filming with a crew and actors etc only to get the film back with an issue. Find yourself a lightmeter, or even just a lightmeter app so you can set your aperture. The manual will tell you what your exposure time should be (1/80 sec for 24fps), then just input the film stock speed. If you get a battery for it the zoom does have auto-exposure, but it may not be working, so I probably wouldn't bother with that.

You can always ask more questions here when you need to.

Happy filming!

Truman Urness · February 8

19 minutes ago, Dom Jaeger said:

Congrats on finding such a great camera that you can use for free!

First step would be to read the manual, an actual Bolex one not the various college manuals you can find on the net that can contain misinformation. Here's one for the Rex 4:

https://www.vintagecameras.fr/images/MonSite/BOLEX/H16_Reflex/_Doc/Bolex_H16Reflex_Manual_en_Revu.pdf

Here's a thread about the 18-86 zoom, with some info about it:

https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/95617-ii-kern-paillard-vario-switar-125-f-18-86mm-ee-h-16-rx-maybe-vario-switar-86-f25-18-86mm-ee-battery-manual-question/

You'll want to get yourself some dummy film to practice loading, and check that the camera is running ok. Hopefully your college might have some old exposed or out-of-date film you can use, otherwise maybe ask a local lab. The Rex 4 uses 100 ft daylight spools.

Some things to check on the camera:

You should be able to wind up the spring, then run the camera at 24fps for about 28 seconds. Listen to the sound, most Bolexes slow down a bit in the last 5 seconds, especially when film is loaded. If the camera slows down very noticeably before that, it may need a service. You can still use cameras like this, but limit shots to shorter takes, and always wind the spring up before each shot.

When you run the camera, make sure that the take-up spindle (the lower one) is turning smoothly, not starting and stopping or sluggish. You should be able to hold it to stop it turning with one hand, then when you release it, it should spin again. If this doesn't happen, the camera needs a service. Sometimes a drop of oil under that spindle can help, but essentially if that spindle doesn't turn properly then the film won't take up and you'll end up with the film looking like spaghetti inside, un-useable.

You can remove that zoom by turning the knurled ring at the back anti-clockwise. I find it easier to have the camera facing up while undoing that ring, so the weight of the zoom isn't binding the mount thread.

Once the lens is off you can check the glass surface just behind the middle lens port. This is the reflex prism that sends a quarter of the light to the viewfinder. It should be clean and free from fungus. You can clean it with a tissue dipped in isopropyl alcohol or lens cleaner. If you rotate the turret out of the way you can flip the prism out to blow dust off the ground glass on top (use a lens blower), and maybe clean the rear surface as you would the front.

The turret should have a bottom port locking cap and a lock at the top right. You want both of those engaged when mounting a heavy zoom like this.

Practice loading your dummy film, and check that the loop stays in position. The take-up should wind the film on snugly.

Next step would be to shoot a quick test, if you want to make sure that you don't waste time and money filming with a crew and actors etc only to get the film back with an issue. Find yourself a lightmeter, or even just a lightmeter app so you can set your aperture. The manual will tell you what your exposure time should be (1/80 sec for 24fps), then just input the film stock speed. If you get a battery for it the zoom does have auto-exposure, but it may not be working, so I probably wouldn't bother with that.

You can always ask more questions here when you need to.

Happy filming!

Thanks so much for all the advice Dom! I really appreciate it

Robert Hart · February 8

If you dry-run the Bolex without film going through, please do not run it until it stops. In an unloaded state, the inertia in the film transport, especially at high frame rates may drive the spring and damage it.

When you button off, make the movement quick and decisive. If the run button is released slowly, there will be a clattering sound and there will be several light frames. The mechanism inside can cope with it but it is best not to have that happening.

Simon Wyss · February 8

Have the camera, which is around 60 years old, serviced.

Organise a good tripod.

Simplify. Remove the zoom lens, organise a compact, lightweight normal focal length lens, for this camera it would be a 25 mm marked RX or DV. Those were made by Kern-Paillard, SOM Berthiot, Angénieux, and Schneider. Don’t pay more than $250, if you’re going to buy one.

Organise a side finder. When shooting in low light situations the reflex finder view is dim.

Finally, to make a little film should not be a rite. It’s the historical base of moviemaking. You encounter resistance, have to take your time for a couple things, and need to think a little more than with video.