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Dom Jaeger

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About Dom Jaeger

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  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia
  • Specialties
    Cinema camera and lens technician

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  • Website URL
    http://cinetinker.blogspot.com.au
  • Skype
    cinetinker@gmail.com

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  1. If you looked at the link you’d see Abacus supplied the same thing Optex did, a hard conversion with replacement aperture and zoom scales.
  2. Must be a typo.. I’m guessing there should be a $ instead of the 4 and he meant $18,000.
  3. Yes it’s meant to be pretty sensitive. As long as you set the lower loop exactly following the white arrow (with the film pin registered in the gate) it should clear.
  4. I wrote this just as you posted your response Serge: Read pages 15, 16 of the manual, regarding the buckle switch: http://www.visualproducts.com/pdf/Arriflex16SManualArri16SManual.pdf If the lower loop is too short (or the pressure roller assembly is opened) it will trip the buckle switch. Opening and closing the pressure roller assembly resets the switch. If you think your loop is fine, it could be the pressure roller assembly is not properly latching closed for some reason and opening during filming, maybe the film is not correctly engaged with a sprocket roller.
  5. Usually if the focus marks are off it's a back-focus problem, yes. If you are focussing through infinity and losing close focus then the lens needs to sit further away from the film plane. From memory the 3m mark is not so far from the infinity mark, so it may be a small shift. It's unusual to happen suddenly though, unless someone opened it up, or are you perhaps using a different adapter or a different camera? If you push or pull on the front of the lens does the focus shift much?
  6. If you’re getting the camera and zoom serviced and collimation checked, then the zoom should be enough I reckon. A zoom needs the back-focus to be spot on in order to hold focus properly from the long end where you focus, out to the wide end. So if you’re getting it set up properly it should be OK. It’s quite a good Super 8 zoom, as you know. If in good condition the prime lens will be a bit sharper (and it should have better contrast, which makes things look sharper). If you can get the 10mm for a reasonable price, it probably would give you slightly better wide angle images, but with Su
  7. You can remove the black plate around the gate but I wouldn't go any further - the position of the gate is usually set with a jig and gauge, and there are some screws that shouldn't be touched. If you turn the movement by hand with the inching knob can you feel a tight spot where the clicking happens? I would actually recommend sending it to a shop to check what the noise is - it could be something loosening that is interfering with the mechanics or mirror somehow. Arriflexes are not really made to be taken apart by the user unfortunately.
  8. Hi Ezra, the main problem is getting the mirror shutter to cover the expanded frame. If you look at this picture from my cinetinker blog about the 16S you can see that the mirror will only just cover the edge of the frame nearest the turret hub. That’s the side that would be expanded by about 2mm for S16. (The picture has the camera on it’s side.) In order to still cover the frame after it’s been expanded, the mirror diameter needs to be extended. That’s a problem in itself, but because the mirror is at an angle to the film plane, if you simply extended it by 2mm it woul
  9. Some people are a bit over the top with their advice, and can seem unnecessarily antagonistic, I agree. I don’t think there’s any need to denigrate people for looking into options. However be careful of people offering services at prices that seem too good to be true. When it comes to camera modification, anyone can easily open out a gate. What’s harder is making sure there will not be scratches or scuffing to the film, or that your viewfinder matches the frame, or that the shutter still covers the entire exposed area during pull down, or that the lens is centred to the new frame, or tha
  10. I spend a lot of time repairing or modifying lenses because of motor damage, but the reality is this is how modern filmmaking is done. It depends on the lens design, but generally the damage is to things like end stops, iris pins and increased wear to the helical. Often I find holding screws have loosened, which causes play in the body or drive systems, and can damage screw threads if left unchecked. Weak mount systems like you often find on stills lenses are also problematic - they tend to shift with motor direction, causing focus errors and eventual wear or damage to the mount itself.
  11. Do you mean this camera, with the off-centre vignette and light leak?
  12. I don’t know what Du-All were doing with their Arri 16St conversion, or how much they charged, but no-one is going to do a decent job of converting that camera to S16 for less than several thousand dollars. Bruce from Aranda Film here in Melbourne used to offer this conversion - it needed a new mirror (shifted forward), new viewfinder optics, a new front, lots of body machining and a modified gate that isn’t actually suited to S16 because the left support rail can’t be machined back, meaning the expanded image area is in contact with the rail. He used to charge about US$3500 fifteen years ago.
  13. The manual just says the Zeiss 9.5mm T1.3 can’t be used with the Super 16 format. That’s because it slightly vignettes, not because of mechanical interference. It should clear the mirror. The manual specifically warns against using old Schneider lenses because of potential mirror damage. If you’re not sure, you can do a test that reduces the risk of damage. Phase or inch the mirror out of the way, then fit the lens with focus set to infinity (where it protrudes the deepest). Then carefully and slowly inch the mirror around by hand - stop if you feel any resistance.
  14. Could be the EVF-1 firmware is not the same update as the camera, but surely refurbishment should have dealt with that. Contact the seller? Or ask Arri service directly. There are plenty of user manuals online to make sure you have everything set up correctly.
  15. A sticky release is most likely just lack of lubrication. You could try a drop of oil under the front release button and work it into the shaft hole but really, it needs disassembly, cleaning and lubrication. The stiff I-T knob/non-functioning single frame sounds like the mechanism inside may be incorrectly assembled. My advice would be to get it serviced - there could well be more issues you haven't picked up yet, and if the release needs lubricating chances are the whole mechanism does.
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