Eyemo Lens Mount Q's

[Patrick Neary]

Hi--

 

I've been looking at snagging an Eyemo and having an adaptor made that would allow a stills lens (nikon/M42/etc) to slide into the "standard" eyemo mount (rather than hard-fronting just one camera) and now I see in a B&H manual that:

 

"Lens mounts for these cameras (single turret models) vary slightly from the mounts fitted to the other models in this series (referring, I guess, to the compact turret and spider turret models). The lenses therefore, are not interchangeable with lenses of other models. Lenses are similarly installed and locked in the single lens mount seat, and require an identical focusing procedure." blah blah blah

 

Any Eyemo owners out there who have run into this? what exactly are the differences in the two eyemo mounts?

 

And the second part of the question, any recommendations for a machinist/camera tech who could whip up a still-mount adaptor? It seems like it should be a simple job, and I'm not picky about which brand, I figure anything would be better than a 60-year-old, fungus-encrusted eymax!

[David Venhaus]

I have run into something similar to this. I have used two different model K (the ones with a single lens mount) Eyemo's, one with a small round base and one with the larger squarish base. I tried four different lenses with them and only three worked on both. The only difference in the lens mounts is the metal prong that is inside the lens mount, that keeps the lens from turning when focusing. The only reason that the one lens won't fit is because the prong is further forward and the part of the lens that goes into the mount is longer, so it stops before being set in the proper place. I haven't tried those lenes on a turret-type Eyemo so I don't know if there is other issues with those beside what the manual says.

[David Venhaus]

Looked it up in an Eyemo manual, the lenses that have the longer section that goes in the lens mount is called a Type "A" and ones that are shorter are Type "C". Type "A" is for model K (which isn't always true, as I mentioned in the above post) and Type "C" is for all other models.

[Hal Smith]

And the second part of the question, any recommendations for a machinist/camera tech who could whip up a still-mount adaptor? It seems like it should be a simple job, and I'm not picky about which brand, I figure anything would be better than a 60-year-old, fungus-encrusted eymax!

See what Les Bosher in the UK says about an adapter. He's not cheap, but he's the man to go to for something unusual.

[Patrick Neary]

thank you both for the info and recommendation.

[chuck colburn]

Hi Patrick,

 

Perhaps one of these companies could provide what you nee

 

http://www.insyncpubs.com/companies/repair.asp

 

Chuck

[Robert Houllahan]

Hi Patrick,

 

Perhaps one of these companies could provide what you nee

 

http://www.insyncpubs.com/companies/repair.asp

 

Chuck

 

 

I saw a Nikon to Eyemo mount adapter recently and I have pictures which I will post next week, I did not think it was possible but there it was....

 

-rob-

[chuck colburn]

I saw a Nikon to Eyemo mount adapter recently and I have pictures which I will post next week, I did not think it was possible but there it was....

 

-rob-

 

Hi Robert,

 

If I remember right the Eyemo flange focal depth is 1.5" and Nikon is 1.830" so it would be easy enough to "Hard Front" the camera but a Nikon to Eyemo adapter might have some limitations on which Nikon lenses one could use. As the Nikon mount would have to be attached to a tube that would then slide into the camera mount. This might cause interference with some wider angle lens that protrude past the Nikon flange.

 

Chuck

[Dan Salzmann]

Also might make for focusing issues because Nikon lenses are much heavier than Eyemo lenses.

Also remember that the focusing scales on photo lenses are far less precise and the Eyemo is of course a non-reflex camera.

[chuck colburn]

Also might make for focusing issues because Nikon lenses are much heavier than Eyemo lenses.

Also remember that the focusing scales on photo lenses are far less precise and the Eyemo is of course a non-reflex camera.

 

Hey Dan,

 

Yep.

Although they did hang 100 and 150mm Miltars on them. Any longer lens should be supported. I've seen quite a few relexing jobs done to the camera over the years.

 

Chuck

[Patrick Neary]

Hi again-

 

well I did hear back from Bernie O'Doherty, his opinion was that crafting such an adaptor might just be too much time and expense, which is what I expected, I guess. No sense spending a couple thousand on a $500 clockwork camera.

 

Personally, I would think an M42 mount would be the way to go, even thought the flange depth is about a mm less than nikon. I don't think one would have the problems with that little nikon aperture lever or elements that poke too far from the rear of the (stills) lens. I really just want a 35mm lens to work with, maybe a 20mm and 50 if it's a raging success.

 

I should be receiving a batch of old eyemo-mount lenses soon, hoping that I can pull one of the mounts off, and taking that and one of the nikon or M42 mounts I have here to a local machinist to see if they can combine the two while keeping the fine tolerances in check. I'm not about to give up just yet.

 

I've seen a thread or two here from folks attempting the same thing, but with no follow-up, so I will post back the eventual outcome, and maybe steps throughout the process for anyone else going on this same goose chase.

[Dan Salzmann]

"Although they did hang 100 and 150mm Miltars on them. Any longer lens should be supported. I've seen quite a few relexing jobs done to the camera over the years."

 

 

The 100 and 150mm Miltars are not all that heavy compared to an 85mm 1.4 Nikkor.

In fact I have a quartzed, reflexed, Nikon mount Eyemo with a video tap.

It is also modified so that the digital tachometer works when the camera is handcranked.

The work was done by Steve's Cine Service in Vancouver.

[Zachary Vex]

Somewhat off-topic, but one trick for focussing a turret (spider) Eyemo is to put identical lenses in the critical focus position and the taking position, and match the settings for focus. I have two 50mm lenses that I can use for this... one with a non-functioning aperture that I use on the focus side. At a distance, you can use this setup for framing as well. Close, of course, the parallax is frighteningly bad.

[Dan Salzmann]

Yep the parallax thing is a problem when close. There was a sliding plate that went on the tripod to shift the camera the same distance as between the viewing and the taking lens but these are hard to find.

[Robert Houllahan]

Yep the parallax thing is a problem when close. There was a sliding plate that went on the tripod to shift the camera the same distance as between the viewing and the taking lens but these are hard to find.

 

 

I think this is why the Eyemo falls into the category of "specialty" camera and not something to use where you need exact framing. I converted mine to a Nikon mount and basically have three lenses for it, a Peleng 8mm a Nikon 18mm and a Nikon 28mm. Great for a wide shot in a spot you cannot get to or a wide angle timelapse shot with a animation motor.

 

-Rob-

[John Thomas]

I've been looking at snagging an Eyemo

 

Be sure to test that eyemo well before purchasing. I've been burned several times renting Eyemos for stunt work. Shoot tests on film before plunking down the dough.

[Charlie Peich]

I think this is why the Eyemo falls into the category of "specialty" camera and not something to use where you need exact framing. I converted mine to a Nikon mount and basically have three lenses for it, a Peleng 8mm a Nikon 18mm and a Nikon 28mm. Great for a wide shot in a spot you cannot get to or a wide angle timelapse shot with a animation motor.

 

-Rob-

 

Rob,

Did you get the animation motor for your eyemo yet? I think you were looking at the motor from NCS Products.

 

Charlie

[Patrick Neary]

Be sure to test that eyemo well before purchasing. I've been burned several times renting Eyemos for stunt work. Shoot tests on film before plunking down the dough.

 

 

Exactly. I've got a pile of test film waiting here for the right camera.

 

Fortunately this pursuit right now is more to satisfy the junkmeister/tinkerer in me than for a specific project. I did find this beast (see pic below, hopefully), and am awaiting its' arrival.

 

 

 

It was sold as a photo-sequence camera, but has an AC motor 12-48fps with a setting for 24fps and a mitchell mag, rather than B&H. Kind of defeats the purpose of the small, self-contained eyemo, but it was cheap, and if nothing else may have pieces I can use for another camera. Probably will hold books upright on the shelf very well too!

 

The saga continues.

[Dan Salzmann]

Looks likes it's good for the biceps when handheld.

[Patrick Neary]

I was thinking maybe adding a 12v car battery to the base and using it as a "helmet cam" :)

[Patrick Neary]

Well, to wrap up this thread for the time being, my lens mount issues are over- it turns out the beast I acquired (see above) came with a Zeiss Biotar "T" 5.8cm lens, which looked like it may have been a very nice lens, except for the millions of tiny bubbles on one of the elements (a sort of built-in promist). It turns out the mount on that lens unscrews, and presto, I have an M42 to eyemo mount. So now I'm testing some Super-Takumar primes with that mount on the camera, and they look to be quite nice. And talk about cheap.

 

The only issues I've run up against with the Super-Taks are the auto-diaphram pin that sticks out of the rear (just clip it off) and some lenses, like the 50 1.4, have rear elements (actually the metal rings around the rear elements) that bonk into the back of the mount adaptor, so that you can't get an infinity focus. The 35 1.4 could be (and was) filed down just a tad to where infinity focus is now possible. Of course the lenses have to be switched over to "manual" to stop down the iris.

 

The mount adaptor itself is the picture of simplicity, just a 38mm (diameter) tube (the part that slides into the eyemo's mount) with an M42 end jutting out 7mm or so. I can't believe it would take much effort to machine one of these things.

[Robert Houllahan]

Rob,

Did you get the animation motor for your eyemo yet? I think you were looking at the motor from NCS Products.

 

Charlie

 

 

I am picking it up next week, I just rounded my glass set for the eyemo out with 18mm and 28mm Nikkor lenses, I already have a 8mm Peleng and a 35-105 Nikkor. I am stoked to get the motor it can do extended exposures and is programmable with the ability to change exposure duration during a shoot, here come stars flying by!

 

NCS also makes a motor which does timelapse and sync filming (up to 48fps? I think.) seems to be nicely built and I am going to bring my eyemo over to NCS in Queens to Pickup/tryout.

 

 

Maybe I will eventually get a 28mm f1.4 nikkor too but not this round all 2.8 or 3.5 lenses right now.

 

-Rob-

[Charlie Peich]

NCS also makes a motor which does timelapse and sync filming (up to 48fps? I think.) seems to be nicely built and I am going to bring my eyemo over to NCS in Queens to Pickup/tryout.

-Rob-

Rob,

Have you seen any time-lapse footage shot with an Eyemo? I asked NCS if they had any feedback from users (Eyemos with their motor) or demo footage, but NCS didn't have any at the time. I'm curious to know if there is any "flicker" caused by shutter backlash and if the image is stable, or as good as an Eyemo in good shape can be (I realize it's not a Mitchell movement, but an Eyemo can be amazingly steady if tweaked with good parts in the gate). I'm sure moving the film at a slow speed would also help the registration.

 

How steady is your Eyemo? Was it converted to Nikon mount when you bought it, or did you have it converted by Steve's? I'd like to do time-lapse with one of my Eyemos, but not sure it's worth spending the $1,000 for a motor if the results are marginal. I have read the book by John Ott, and there are pictures of his Eyemos set-up to do time-lapse in his studio (pre NCS motors), so they must have worked for him. However, I'd still like to see some footage shot with today's film and electronically controlled motors.

 

I hope you let us know how your Eyemo/NCS motor does, and if possible, post some clips. Anyone else on the forum shoot time-lapse with an Eyemo?

 

Charlie

[Robert Houllahan]

Rob,

Have you seen any time-lapse footage shot with an Eyemo? I asked NCS if they had any feedback from users (Eyemos with their motor) or demo footage, but NCS didn't have any at the time.

Charlie

 

 

I bought a Eyemo (Spyder Turret in decent shape) and then I bought a bunch of parts including a newish "front" from an instrumentation camera and completely disassembled my eyemo, bead blasted the parts, re wrinkle finished the case (in black) cleaned and lubed the movement and installed the new single turret front on the camera.

 

I shot a bunch of footage with a eyemax 25mm f2.3 lens including a hand cranked sequence in a Soviet era Juliett submarine for a film I am working on and then set about to graft the Nikon mount on the camera.

 

I took the front off the camera again and brought it and a Nikon to C-mount to our C-n-C machine shop and explained to them what I wanted and the flange focal distance, etc and a week later I picked up a Nikon mount front machined to exact specs (this shop does aerospace components for things like the ISS) which I tested out and find to be fine and sharp, etc. the camera runs great and is smooth at all speeds.

 

I also had bought a set of shutters from a guy in LA a while back so I have a range of shutters made of tough plastic to run in the camera (11, 11+11, 22, 90, 180, etc.) very happy with the results so far.

 

NCS motors do have controlled motor ramping for the stepper motor they use so I imagine the intervalometer will be as steady as can be expected from a non pin registered movement as the camera is in great shape.

 

I'll post photos and a movie after I have shot one in a week or so. The eyemo/ncs rig is a bit more portable and inconspicuous than a Mitchell timelapse setup too....

 

-Rob-

[Alessandro Machi]

I hope you let us know how your Eyemo/NCS motor does, and if possible, post some clips. Anyone else on the forum shoot time-lapse with an Eyemo?

 

Charlie

 

Perhaps a time-lapse forum would create a nice separation between those interested in real time filmmaking cinematography and those who like the undercranked style of filmmaking.