ryan tillotson Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 (edited) I will be shooting with this stock for this first time (with fuji for the first time as well) and I'm curious, for an interior scene, what is the minimum amount of light i can use and get good exposure? I will be shooting 16mm with the aaton xtr a 2k is probably the largest light i'll be able to get my hands on . . . if that i would love to be able to read a 4.0f thanks -ryan Edited May 8, 2009 by ryan tillotson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Adrian Sierkowski Posted May 8, 2009 Premium Member Share Posted May 8, 2009 Depends on the room and how you want it to look... If you had big windows in the room, for example, with nice daylight coming in and some CTO.. well then you might not need any lights. If you're out on a street in the evenings... and need to keep it cheap, NS or VNS bulbed ParCans will probably in order (if the largest light you can get is a 2K...) What I often do is try to just up the wattage in some of my practicles (i never spell this word right) and then set a nice key with something.. Like everything in film, what is "right" or "needed" is dictated by what you're shooting, how you want it to look, and how you want to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted May 8, 2009 Premium Member Share Posted May 8, 2009 Depends on the lighting technique - a 2K shined directly at someone from a couple of feet away should get you plenty of stop at 160 ASA, but through a 4'x4' frame of heavier diffusion, or bounced off of a white ceiling... now you're more likely to be at a T/2.8. But you got more depth of field with 16mm so you don't really need an T/4.0 unless you are going for deep-focus effects. Or you have a very slow lens on. The rule is that it takes 100 footcandles to get an f/2.8 at 24 fps with a 180 degree shutter using 100 ASA film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul Rodgar Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 (edited) IMO, Fuji stocks are a little grainier than Kodak's. You may want to compensate for that rating your stock 2/3 of a stop over, or 100 ASA and follow David's suggestion. Edited May 8, 2009 by Saul Rodgar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan tillotson Posted May 9, 2009 Author Share Posted May 9, 2009 IMO, Fuji stocks are a little grainier than Kodak's. You may want to compensate for that rating your stock 2/3 of a stop over, or 100 ASA and follow David's suggestion. thanks for all the help . . . i'm not looking for heavy shadows . . . primarily hey key lighting . . . i was hoping to be able to read a f/4.0 because it would allow me to rate it at least 2/3 over and still get a decent read. So i guess the real question is how can reach a minimum of 100 footcandles? I hope that makes sense. daylight pouring through windows is something i've been pushing towards, but i just want to be prepared if the director definitely says NO thanks again - ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Bowerbank Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 thanks for all the help . . . i'm not looking for heavy shadows . . . primarily hey key lighting . . . i was hoping to be able to read a f/4.0 because it would allow me to rate it at least 2/3 over and still get a decent read. So i guess the real question is how can reach a minimum of 100 footcandles? I hope that makes sense. Do a prelight a few days before shooting, and figure out what you'll need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan tillotson Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Do a prelight a few days before shooting, and figure out what you'll need. yeah . . . thanks . . . i was hoping i could avoid that . . . not sure how soon before the shoot we'll have the equipment i appreciate all the help - ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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