WTB - Wurker or Catazzo (CIR) super-8 splicer

[Paul Bryant]

Hi all!

 

The topic pretty much says it... Anyone have one sitting around, that they want to unload?

 

Thanks much!

Paul

[Tim Carroll]

Hi all!

 

The topic pretty much says it... Anyone have one sitting around, that they want to unload?

 

Thanks much!

Paul

 

Got a really nice Bolex Super 8 splicer that comes with a brand new unopened bottle of Kodak film cement and a brush. Let me know if you'd be interested.

 

Best,

-Tim

[Mark Dunn]

Presumably you are aware that these two types are very different. The Wurker uses pre-punched tape splices which cost around 10p each, the CIR uses the much cheaper plain tape.

I have a CIR splicer (the original metal guillotine version, not the cheaper plastic) but I would need a very good offer. It's about £200 new.

[Tim Carroll]

Presumably you are aware that these two types are very different. The Wurker uses pre-punched tape splices which cost around 10p each, the CIR uses the much cheaper plain tape.

I have a CIR splicer (the original metal guillotine version, not the cheaper plastic) but I would need a very good offer. It's about £200 new.

 

Wasn't aware of that, The Bolex doesn't use tape. It locks in the two pieces of film you want to splice together, then cuts both, then there is a slider that bevels the edges of both pieces of film so the joint is flat, and finally, you apply the film cement, and then the one side of the splicer flips over and joins the two splices perfectly together. Wait a minute and bam, you got a really strong cement splice that won't catch on your projector or editor. It's a really cool mechanical design, and it works great too.

 

Best,

-Tim

[Mark Dunn]

I wasn't going to mention this because I don't like to queer anyone's pitch, but you've posted again, promoting the virtues of cement splices, so I think it's fair.

A tape splicer makes a butt join, so as long as you make a good job with the tape it doesn't show on projection. A cement splice works by overlapping the film, so the splice always shows as a frame effectively cut in half. Also, if you want to remake a splice, you have to cut out the overlap so you lose two frames. Cement splices are prone to parting in the projector. Well mine were anyway- I ditched them when I found the CIR. YMMV.

[Tim Carroll]

Cement splices are prone to parting in the projector.

 

Not if they're done right they don't.

 

Everything else you mention I agree with. What you don't mention is the longevity of the tape. I wouldn't trust a tape splice after a number of years. Maybe they have improved the tape, but the last ones I used (which was a good twenty years ago for Super 8) yellowed with age, the tape itself got somewhat brittle, while the glue on the tape got gummy. Again, maybe now they have improved the tape.

 

Anyway, I hope Paul finds what he's looking for.

 

Best,

-Tim

[Jacob Waltman]

Hopefully it's not bad form, but rather than create a whole new topic I'll piggyback off this one and state that if perhaps anyone has an extra standard 8mm CIR splicer I'd very much be interested...