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Tim Carroll

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Everything posted by Tim Carroll

  1. Hi Mike, I'm sorry but I don't have any Arriflex 16M parts inventory anymore. Hi Peter, I must apologize, I don't know the TCS-TXM-17 motor. From the one pic I could find online, it looks like it might be similar to the TCS-TXM-22 motor. If memory serves, Clive Tobin put heat shrink wrap on the ball end shafts for his motors, because at the time he was selling them, most Arriflex 16S, 16S/B, 16M cameras had worn, dry rotted rubber couplings, and the extra width of the shrink wrap gave the motor a good enough contact with the rubber coupling. Unfortunately it also stretched the rubber coupling, causing the issue you have now. I haven't had any of the rubber couplings in stock for over a decade. They were super expensive, even back in 2009 (like over $100). You might want to contact ARRI in New York or Los Angeles and see if they have any left. Also I'd try searching online, as I remember someone was making replacements out of rubber fuel hose or something like that. Been a while. Best, -Tim
  2. The late Iohan Gueorguiev, world bicycle traveler, was a master of cinematography. I don't know if he studied it or if it just came naturally to him. But this, one of his last videos, has just some spectacular footage, not because of it's remote locations, but because of it's camera angles, lighting, camera movement, etc. Everything that makes beautiful cinematography. Winter Bikepacking in Canada: Take Me Home Country Roads Make sure to watch past the introductory scene. And from my understanding, this was all done with a simple GoPro and a drone. A great artist, taken too soon. May he Rest In Peace. Best, -Tim
  3. Hi All, I know when I was writing and directing short films back in the early 2000's, I was always looking for festivals that honored short films. For all you short film directors and producers, the PRIDEARTS FILM FEST is looking for submissions of short, LGBTQ+ themed films. The deadline is September 1st, 2021. https://filmfreeway.com/PrideArtsShorts I've seen all the submissions in the last two fests, it's a good organization and they get some very good submissions. I hope some of you find this of interest. Best, -Tim
  4. The ARRI Lightweight Rods, LWS-2 have been sold, these items are still available: - Van Diemen 4x4 Matte Box (with 15mm rod mount), 2 Stage, both Stages rotate, with 4 donuts for different sized lenses. Asking $250 - Schneider #85 4x4 Filter, used once. Asking $99 - Tiffen #25 Red 4x4 Filter, never used. Asking $125 Best, -Tim
  5. I've got a pair of ARRI lightweight rods for sale, fit both the 16SRII and the 16SR3. ARRI Lightweight LWS-2 Rods Also have a Van Diemen 4x4 Matte Box (with 15mm rod mount), 2 Stage, both Stages rotate, with 4 donuts for different sized lenses. And 4x4 Filters. Used all of this with Zeiss Super Speeds and the big Zeiss 10-100 T2 zoom, and it's Super 16 counterpart on the Arriflex 16SRII. Best, -Tim
  6. Manfrotto Pro Video Support System, 526 Pro Fluid Head, 3193 Tripod Legs, Spreader, multiple tripod feet. Original owner, used twice, no longer shooting motion picture cameras/film. You can still buy this set up new from Amazon for $1890.64, here's a chance to own the same thing for less than half that price. Everything in excellent condition. Local pick up in the Chicago NW Suburbs recommended (it's heavy, shipping will be costly and added to the price). $899 Let me know if you have any questions, Thanks for looking. Best, -Tim
  7. I made a separate post for the ARRI LWS-2 Rods with extensions. Also added a Van Diemen 2-Stage (each stage rotates separately) Matte Box, and a couple of 4x4 filters. Best, -Tim
  8. Late Spring Cleaning, items from Super 16 Arriflex 16SRII for sale. ARRI LWS-2 Rods with extensions. These are the convertible rods that work with Arriflex 16SR, 16SRII and 16SR3 cameras, in Regular 16 and Super 16. Asking $275 Van Diemen 4x4 Matte Box (with 15mm rod mount), 2 Stage, both Stages rotate, with 4 donuts for different sized lenses. Asking $250 Schneider #85 4x4 Filter, used once. Asking $99 Tiffen #25 Red 4x4 Filter, never used. Asking $125 Thanks for looking, let me know if you have any question. Shipping is free for residents in the lower 48 here in the US, actual shipping and handling cost will be added to international sales. Best, -Tim
  9. Hi Ezra, I have not found a home for the SR Lighweight rods yet, they are still packed away. I won't be able to get to that for a few weeks, but when I do, I'll post again here. Best, -Tim
  10. Hey John, Yes, the eyepiece was sold and is on its way to Ireland. I'll be cleaning out and sorting some camera equipment in the next few weeks, I'll let you know if I have any SR "fun stuff". I'm pretty sure I have a pair of the Arri Lightweight Rods for the 16SR & 16SR2, the ones that are swappable between Regular 16 and Super 16. And I do believe I still have a Super 16 gate from when I was studying camera repair/conversions with Axel Broda. It's an actual ARRI super 16 gate (not a machined or converted regular 16 gate) for either the 16SR or 16SR2. Best, -Tim
  11. Hey Dan, that's an ARRI Super Wide Eyepiece on Thomas's SR2 package. I've got one of those and it fits beautifully on the SR2 and makes it easier to frame Super 16. Let me know if you'd be interested in purchasing it. Best, -Tim
  12. I agree Dom, not a lens you want to take apart to experiment on. My comments on lubing the external barrel before inserting it into the lens mount socket on the camera comes from experiencing numerous folks putting non-lubricated Kinetal lenses into Arri 16S cameras, then complaining that the lens was rather stiff to focus. Because of the way the Arri mount Kinetals are designed, that's not an easy lens to rack focus on when the lens is not mounted in a camera body. So when folks used to say to me, the lens focuses stiffly, my first question was always, did you lubricate the outside lens barrel before inserting it into the mount socket. The answer was almost always "No", and after lubricating the lens barrel they reported that the focus now felt "fine". Just some thoughts. Best, -Tim
  13. Not sure what camera your Taylor Hobson Cooke lens is for, but if it's the common Arriflex S mount, then you lubricate the lens barrel before you fit it into the lens socket. Those lenses are "externally lubed". And we always used to use Vasoline if no Arri grease was available. But make sure to always lube the outside barrel of a Cooke Kinetal lens before inserting it into one of the lens sockets on an Arri camera. Best, -Tim
  14. I've done what Will and Tyler describe. Shoot regular-16, use slow film stock like 50D or 100T (I've even gotten by with 250D) and have it scanned to HD with a Spirit. It's very do-able if a regular-16 camera is all you can afford. Try to use good lenses, like the 10-100 Will listed above, or any of the first generation Zeiss Super Speeds with the bayonet mount, or if you can find a decent set, I always had great luck with the Cooke Kinetal line of lenses, and the Cooke Varokinetal 9-50mm T2.5 cine zoom is excellent. Best, -Tim
  15. Hey Thomas, nice camera. That is one of the last production Arriflex 16S cameras, with the APEX built-in light-metering system. Very cool. Is the serial number in the 19XXX range? Best, -Tim
  16. Nicely done Duncan. Best, -Tim
  17. I have gotten a number of requests over the last few years for information on how to shoot 16:9 with the little Arriflex 16S cameras by taping off the ground glass. I found the page from my old website where I explained this, and have posted it at this web address in case anyone is interested in trying it for themselves. Shooting 16:9 with an Arriflex 16S Best, -Tim
  18. Hi Donald, That's not technically a video assist. That is just a video camera mounted on the Arriflex 16S viewfinder, in place of an eyepiece. A video assist is a video camera that can send a video signal to a monitor, but that does not interfere with the camera operator's ability to operate the camera while looking thru the viewfinder. Best, -Tim
  19. The eyepiece (B) will remain stationary, it is keyed in place, but the chrome ring (A) turns clockwise (viewed from behind the camera looking thru the eyepiece). I would also check the fibre-optics screen/groundglass, if the dirty spots in the frame are sharp when looking thru the eyepiece. Best, -Tim
  20. Everything Aapo and Simon said, all great points. If the camera has not had a full CLA in the last 4 years expect to have one done before using it on a project. About that Schneider CIne-Xenon 1.4/25mm lens, take a flashlight (torch) and shine it thru the lens (aperture fully open) once you've removed it from the camera turret. I have seen those lenses with internal fungus which eats thru the lens coatings. Even when cleaned to remove the fungus, the lens with remain hazey because of the damage to the lens coatings. Best, -Tim
  21. Axel Broda taught me the Arriflex 16SR & SRII Super-16 modification, it's not just the sprockets, it's also the ramps that lead up to the sprockets, we would "relieve" them as well. That way there was no way any part of the converted magazine would scratch the film in the Super-16 image area. Best, -Tim
  22. There are surfaces inside the SR2 mag that touch the film as it cycles thru the camera. These surfaces need to be machined back (relieved) so they don't touch and scratch the area of the film that is seen in the Super-16 frame. Best, -Tim
  23. Hi Isaac, Hope your project went well. Those Cooke Kinetal lenses were always my favorite when using with the Arriflex 16S. Lubricating the barrels of the lenses with Vaseline is fine. Naturally the ARRI grease will work also, but it's much more expensive than Vaseline. Just make sure to keep the lens barrels and lens sockets on the camera lubricated as the aluminum on the lens sockets will wear quickly and make the lens sloppy. You also need to do this on the very early Schneider lenses and some of the Zeiss lenses that were made for the Arriflex 16S. Best, -Tim
  24. The Ari Schneider-Kreuznach lenses will fit the Arriflex 16BL but you will not be able to use the lens blimp, which means the camera will run louder. There was a lens blimp for the small primes, but they are very hard to find these days. Best, -Tim
  25. I hope you've got this worked out Brendan, but one thing I noticed from your video is that your loops inside the camera are way too tight. The white line engraved on the inside of the camera shows you where the minimum loop should ride, they will bounce further out than that as the camera is running, but they need to be at least that loose, in your video you have them way too tight. That will effect the way the camera runs when you are shooting. Best, -Tim
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