Richardson Leao

Don't forget the kinor 16-sx. Very strong and reliable camera and it costs less than one day rent for an arri. there's one in ebay right now that is going quite cheap with mags, power supply and several lenses, and i don't think you can ever regret in having one.

I loved the velvia blues. Was there any significant differences between the 2 telecines?

I have a 2x15 lomo and i love it, I have developed about 300m of s8 and another 500m of neg/bw reversal on it. I also have a g3 but i just use it for negs as it's very annoying for reversal. reversal in a lomo tank is quite easy as the re-exposition can be done at the spiral reel without having to remove the film and once you get good in loading the spiral the results are fantastic. If you do BW I would recommend do the whole process on 22C. Regarding sulphuric acid, you can use the one you buy for batteries in car shops. It's more diluted then absolute sulphuric acid, I guess it's 40%, so you need to add about 50ml in a litre. It's not possible to go around without it as the bleach has to stop the 1st dev by its low pH. With new kodak film however, you can use potassium permanganate (instead of K dichromate) as it is less toxic for you and for the planet.

6 min with d-76 @22C would be enough for a fairly non-contrasty neg. I like the contrast though so I prefer d-19 (or even d-11). The thiosulfate i guess it's mostly for reversal (when stoks need some silver solvents) I am working now in a project that I have developed 150m of 7222. I hope to telecine it by the 10/12 if you want to see. Just by inspecting the negs, there is a huge contrast difference between the d76 and d19.

still needing: 400ft magazine for kinor 16sx 16mm

Hi all, it has some animations (unfortunately low contrast) and some wedding 'action'. Good and old kodachrome 40. or alternatively (better res.): http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/my_wedding.mpg

Hi, I had some 1R reg 16mm negs with some broken perfs (not many). If I send it to be telecined, would it cause major problems? Cheers

Dominic is right and if you don't have the loop formers on the K3 it's very easy to adjust the loop and load the camera. I load mine in total darkness.

if you wanna try a less granier stock, orwo UN54 (iso 100) is quite fine and it has less contrast than 7231.

i don't think data projectors flicker (nor LCD as they are matrixes of LEDs).

don't want to be repetitive, but a home processing tank can be quite useful for tests. Spiral tanks are very fast but they only get 15m while rewind are annoying but take 30m. Alternatively, a jobo tank with transparent (or semi) spiral can do for the stills. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/16-mm-and-35-mm-dev...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/16mm-2x8mm-movie-de...1QQcmdZViewItem

The beauty of foma is that the 16mm film you shoot is the same as the 35mm for stills, so you can predict all the contrast and 'colors' you will end up. If you have problems to find it you can also buy it from www.jandcphoto.com (both 35mm still roll and 16mm)

Any Ilford BW film (that uses BW processing) can be developed as a slide. I presume Kodak tri-x BW film can also be developed as a reversal (you can find it in ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/LOT-of-4-pkgs-KODAK-PR...1QQcmdZViewItem for example). If I was you I would probably get the reversal chemistry (widescreen-centre or from Olexandr: http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/). The process is quite simple, just a few more steps than normal processing. If you cannot find a reversal kit available, for ilford films, you can buy normal BW developer and fixer, than you need extra: Potassium permanganate, sulphuric acid and sodium sulfite. you can use the times sshown on Olexandr site, the potassium permanganate is used as a bleach. Also you can check: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutilford/pag...+and+white+film

From the book: 'exponiendo una idea', digital light meter suffer from a certain 'inertia' given that the numbers cannot change too fast to not confuse the operator. I have an analog pentax spot meter and it's about 40 years old... as new.

hi, just an idea, I bought amvona tripod legs (with 75mm half-ball) and an old head (on ebay) drilled a biger whole to screw the camera and made with timber a 75mm half ball. The whole package costed less than 150$ and it's a very strong and reliable tripod, maybe an alternative for expensive bogen/manfrotto?

Don't forget about the orange mask of negatives. I tried to do something similar with 16mm and results were terrible. I could send you a sample if you want. It's total crap. Moreover, if you plan to develop negs (ECN-2) in a spiral tank, I suppose you'll be using c41 chemistry. That's OK, as long as you first bath it with borax and wipe the remjet layer with a sponge or something.

There aren't many llabs that do reversal in australia. Film plus in Melb use to do it but i think now they only process BW reversal. They do reversal telecine though (i think). In my opinion, the advantage oof reversal is that you can process your self as there is no remjet layer. If you get an E6 kit from Vanbar you can easily do yourself. It costs ~150$ for 5L and that's enough to process probably a kilometer of film. In the end, probably you would have to send your reversal stock overseas, what would add the shipping, however, OS labs are far more cheaper than local ones but there's always the risk of some weirdo US custom guy to blast your film with x-ray.

the good thing is that it was the price of a so-so digital camera that in 2 years will be sold by 10% of the original price, while nearly 30 years after you can still sell the arri for probably 50% of the original price.

not too drastic, frame sizes reg8 4,8mm x 3,5mm s8 25% wider Concerning ds8 film stocks, it's correct you can't get it from 16mm but wittner has a variety of color and BW film.

If the reg-8 is good because you thread the film and all controls are manual, why not use then DS8? You still use the larger frame area and cameras are totally manual. I have a russian Quartz DS8 reflex and it's great, all manual, the photometer is selenium and powered by light, so, absolutely no batteries. The complete kit includes the film splitter . I shot a short with foma (available new from www.jandcphoto.com) and svema DS8. If you're interested you can have a look: http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/TMWTTR.avi The telecine is crap though as I used one of those transfer boxes. But the film is far more stable than normal s8 and it's much cheaper too, a 10m roll of DS8 is equal to 20m of s8 (if you use a change bag to load the film) and the foma costs ~8USD at jandc. And color is also available from http://www.wittner-kinotechnik.de/katalog/...mm/d8_filmm.php Cheers. Richard

I have a kinor modified by Olexandr and it's the best thing you can do to yours. Also, I do sound sync with my laptop using the sync pulse from the camera (wireless and for less than 50$), if you are interested, you can check my page and I could help you with the assembling (http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/

I wouldn't expect an important halation if using a metal plate and i believe the stabilisation effect would overcome the minimal halation. S8 is small, no reg pin and cartridges have floppy plates, so, all prone to uninstability. Adding the metal plate does improve it, that's why I love the reloadable cartridges (also they are more ecologically sound).

Hi all, would anyone be aware of any 16mm cinematography courses in Mexico (or other latin countries)? Cheers

By the way, you can also get a metal pressure plate to add in kodak (or other) cartridges from: http://www.german.film-super8.de/

I have develop some tri-x expired since 65 and it looks super cool. But I develop myself, I dunno if I'd be keen to spend money on it if I have to send it to a lab. A good idea would be if you have a little bit of BW developer (normal for stills) and fixer (or even a stop bath e.g. vinager), you could test a strip of film, let's say 1m or less (unloaded in total darkness), put it in a light-tight bottle with the developer for 6-8min and then change it to the stop bath (or fixer), all at 22C. If you can see a good negative, go ahead and send it to the lab, you'll get a good reversal. The only trick that can happen is that the emulsion is not strong until you fix it and it can shred if you touch it or if it go through 'violent' processing.