Richardson Leao

you could try to wash between the steps. Also, the backing of the film has a kind of silver based antihalation layer (that should go off during the bleach) but perhaps adding 5g of sodium (or potassium) tiocyanate (silver solvent) on your 1st developer could help. But I think it's a consensus, use the lomo (as you said bucket process work). It's at least 3 times faster and hassle free.

i thing i use divx 4 (no plugins), just left click/save link as. It plays in VLC and divx player (www.videolan.org) By the way, I used svema Quartzchrome (no kodak) in super8 cartridges and a bit of fomapan trimmed and fit to re loadable s8 cartridges.

Hi, Here is a link of a short I made shot in s8 and telecined at home with a miniDV camera. Careful, it's 105MB... http://jcsmr.anu.edu.au/~rleao/TMWTTR.avi

i keep it out. dunno if it's right though...

I had recentely some footage transfered to DVCam in a miniDV tape, bought a cheap sony digicam (less than the deck rent per day) and I haven't seen anu perceptable wqew

Take the rolls out and examine the film, look if you can see it against the light. Also, 12' would be on normal tanks, rewind tanks, each minute is a full cycle (so, you have to rewind in moderate speed) the film 12 times, not 12 minutes rewinding). But yes, if you can, do what Olexandr said... Btw, do not try a whole roll at once until you get it properly. Do tests! Cheers

Hi Mark, the fomapan has some antihalation layer and it generally comes off during the 1st development. Here is some troubleshooting: 1: Develop (1st) 2: bleach 3. clear open the tank and with gloves, hold the 2 rollers and look through a piece of film against the light. You should see the image in milky white and the rest (the dark bits on the original image) transparent. The image (depending on the subject) should be rich and you should actually see the pic you want. It seems that your 1st dev is being too short. I dunno what kind of kit you have but using d19 (kodak) and a morse tank, I would do: 1st dev: 10 turns bleach 6 turns clear 6 turns 2dev: 8 turns fix: 6 wash but before, get a stripe of film and develop it in a container up to the re-exposure. But, by your description, it seems that either, you are not developing properly during the 1st dev (it's quite hard to screw up by overtime, but easy for under) AND/OR your bleach is not acidic enough to stop the 1st dev. My bleach contains 1L water K dichromate (~40g) 12ml of glacial sulfuric acid (if you mix, never add water to the acid - only the other way round). Hope it helps. cheers richard

Hi Nick, it's silver based. the blue comes from the leader that is a bit brownish. Cheers.

Dear all, After experimenting with hardeners, softeners, subbing, coating, digesting etc etc, I've got some promising results with my hand made emulsion for motion picture. I believe it's now iso 12 (or maybe 9) and orthocromatic (by the addition of some extra sensitisers). Unfortunately, I made a huge mistake, caused by anxiety of seeing results and try to pre-hardened the film before it was actually dried, disaster, most of the emulsion came off... So, the samples you're seeing are some that survived. I have a new batch that I wanna shoot soon (that I actually used a brush to spread it over the leader) that looks much better. There was some major frauds with my coating machine but I guess I am on the verge of solving it. Anyway, here is some of the frames scanned with a flatbed (the kodak on the side is only because I use kodak clear polyester leader)... This one I developed as a negative but I hope to do the next as reversal. Thanks for the attention. richardson

hi, i tried k14 using d19 (as a negative it works after playing with the anti-halation layer). It's very dense though but cool.

Hey matthew, if you have a dark room, it would be insanely easy to build a rewind tank. I could give you some sketches if you want.

if you can't get any official interface, use a data acquisition card, there are very cheap national instruments one (usb based). They are fairly easy to program and you can generate virtually any pulse and receive any feedback from the camera. You just have to know what kind of signal you are dealing. Cheers

Hi, I dont do anything, have a bit of silver solvent on my developer, but basically it comes off, just like kodachrome (when developed as BW) does.

hi all, i would like to get a very contrasty result using ektachrome 16mm. I 1st thought about cross processing but I think I want it reversal. So, the bleach in e6, would it be to make 'blacks' into whites (like in BW reversal)? What would happen if i don't bleach in e6, re-expose and re-develop? Also, would you know of any example of ECN (neg film) being developed using e6? Many thanks!

yep, i also bought it from JandC, dunno what is going on with them (i think though that they might be still shipping). Alternatively www.retrophotographic.com/ (uk) and wittner kino in germany about processing, the film can also be processed as a negative. AND please re-check it, but tri-x processing might work on it. My understanding is that tri-x is bleached with K permanganate instead of dichromate and as it happens to ilford films, that works fine, BUT PLEASE CHECK IT. cheers

Hi all, I have 240m of 7240 that I wanna use in a new project and I wonder if I could 'mix' it with modern negative stocks. If so, what should I use? Could I do bleach BP on the neg stock to increase the contrast to mix with the old 7240? Many thanks

Hi all, I need to get some cheap ektachrome to finish a project and I found this stock on ebay. I had a few doubts because of the polyester base. Is there a problem with projecting/telecine? Can I splice it with a cement splicer? Would any of you used it? Many thanks! richard

remjet is removable with a borax solution (Pierre Sam Formula): this is the compleate formula for tyhe rem-jet remover: water 700 ml Borax Pentahydrate 20 g Sodium Sulfate 100g Sodium Metaborate 10g add water to make 1000ml or 1 litre (that before the developer, otherwise you'll end up with a lot of carbon floating around the dev. Another idea is to use the e6 bleach instead of the c41.

Orwo 100 Un54 is quite fine...

Hi Steve, Olexandr was mentioning a s16 kinor w/ pl mount for sale way under that.

Thanks Henry, but i guess this info isn't updated. Filmplus just do b&w and avid uses tanks (so limited to 100ft spools). Anyway, thank you.

is there any? thanks you.,

Thanks Bernhard, I've got some leader from ebay to start with and I am also doing now a 'coating' machine. Keep you guys posted anyway. Cheers

I also think the CEO cancer is what killing film. I don't see the reason why people is interested in more and more HD because of the price. I was just checking prices for renting a decent digital camera (~1000$/day). Two days of shooting would definitely pay for a cheap s16 camera, ~1h of stock and telecine... I guess it's what most of the 'modern' corporative attitude is doing. Narrow vision and imitation (as if panasonic does digital we all have to follow it) instead of broad approach and innovation.

Only normal Kodak D-19 and ilford fixer/hardner (forgot the name) but the same I use for 7222.