JD Hartman

Other options for gels are: Bastard Amber or 1/2 CTO or 1/2 Straw. Since you are testing this out prior to shooting (an excellent idea), you can see which "look" you prefer for moonlight.

Anyone have any information on tripods made by this company? I'm interested in knowing the ball size, 100mm, 150mm? Good quality? The company (NYC, LA) is out of business and the seller doesn't seem to understand what they are measuring. No model number on the tripod from what I could see.

I don't recall there being any meter that will do so. If the ballasts are in a local shop, bring one of the power supplies with you when you pick them up. They may be willing to show you what its output looks like on a 'scope.

By small tank used for soda, I meant a tank about 30" tall. The type of tank that you refill or exchange at an industrial gas supply. If you converted it to compressed air, you would be introducing issues like moisture in to the cylinders and controls. CO2 is dry.

Without trouble shooting both the 12v ballasts and determining what components that failed, all the posts on this thread are simple conjecture. If you knew the failure mode of the ballast(s), you would have some clues, indicating what was wrong with the power supplies. Taking one last guess, if due to poor design, the power supply failed to hold the output voltage steady at 12vdc, it might also be deficient in filtering the AC ripple component from the DC output. You would need an oscilliscope to view the waveform of the power suppply. In theory DC would appear as a flat line above the 0v point on the scope. The amount of AC ripple in the output would be clearly visible as a jagged line. This AC residue may have damaged your ballast.

Never used one. Based on one I saw that was for sale in NJ, it uses a pre-charged CO2 tank. The smaller tanks, like those used for soda.

You probaby could use two regular lamp harps, oriented 90 degrees to each other, to keep the bulb from touching the fixture. Just clip off the metal part where the finial screws onto the top.

Did the power supply supply have the word "regulated" in the description? There are different ways of achieving output voltage regulation in a DC power supply. The fact that they didn't read 12vdc on the meter under no load, would indicate that something internally isn't correct. But I don't see how a low voltage input to your 12DC HMI ballasts would ruin them, unless that caused a corresponding rise in current draw, which overloaded/fried some internal component. But that would indicate that the ballast was poorly designed as well. It should be able to deal with an input voltage that will vary as the battery discharges.

The first stop in you journey to get permission should be the university's Public Safety, Security or "Rent a Cop" department. They should be able to guide you in the steps necessary to gain permission.

Phill, yes the lamp pipe threads into the disc and the socket fasten to the disc by two machine screws. Richard, the link to the Miller website was the one I was trying to find when I posted the link for the socket. How much time and money you utimately spend on hardware for a disposable light fixture is up to you. After all, the original reason for using a china ball is because they are a cheap way to light a shot with soft light. Use them and when they get ripped or your shoot is over, discard them. No need to store a paper lantern worth on a few dollars, is there?

Home Depot sells them and probably other large home centers, hardware stores and of course your local electrical supply.

I didn't read every page of the thread at DVX user, but read enough to dicern that the far east ARRI clones were junk. While the housing may be the same (patent violation), the globes were inferior and the wiring was unable to withstand the heat. So it's your choice, you can save a few dollars and buy junk or buy ARRI, Mole-Richardson, Altman, Strand, QuartzColor, etc.

Sorry! I was a little harsh. I've been doing electrical work since I was about 12. It is either done right or it presents the possibility of fire or injury. In this case, injury to a member of the crew or cast. It's great to homebrew stuff, but if you are going to use the finished product around people, it has to be done correctly. Here is a link to a knot which will provide an approved means of strain relef between the lamp pipe and socket: http://www.copper.org/copperhome/DIY/doity...owtorewire.html Here is a link to a more suitable socket for this purpose: http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/...house/70409.htm

I'd throw your rig out the window or into the nearest street if I worked on your shoot. The extension cord is run through the lamp pipe and taped into place. Electrical tape is not a replacement for a a proper strain relief. You can be certain the people will carry and attempt to hang your fixture by the cord. The socket you have chosen is not the correct type and the electrically live terminals are exposed. I can also see in the photo that you didn't make an Underwriters knot where the cord exits the lamp pipe.

If these are the same as the spiral bulbs being sold on Ebay, marked Falcon Eye, the color rendition seems a little off. The skin tones were on the orange side in some video I saw, which was shot using them as sole light source. I don't think could have been the camera, makeup or any post processing. I saw the same person on the set, under the same lights and her flesh tones appeared orange.

Anyone have the URL for Norms grip equipment? I've lost it and have had no luck finding it with a search. Thanks

An older ARRI 575/1200 mag. ballast draws 12a. But why post this question here? The answers are: on the web, just a Google search away; available from your rental house; in the equipment manufacturer's catalogs. Or are the members here your personal reserch service?

See this link for an image of a Polcat or wall-spreader: http://www.msegrip.com/mse.php?show=produc...oducts_ID=24032 Your grip would already be familiar with their use.

You'll need a step-up transformer for your lights. What is the total wattage? I don't know that the 50Hz vs. 60Hz is going to cause a flicker issue. 50Hz motors will run on 60Hz here in the US as long as you supply te correct voltage. You might try Barbizon fo your Diva, they have locations in many major cities.

Instead of buying lower wattage globes for your 1K, just drop in a scrim, or two. Or put some ND on the barndoors. If you start buying globes in multiple wattages for the same head, before you know it, you have a spent a large sum of money on spares. Money that could be used for gels, grip equipment, other lights, etc.

If there is a ceiling fixture in the room, see how securely it is mounted. You could always remove it and use the electrical box to hang your china ball from. Alternatives are: wall spreader; removeable picture hangers that 3M makes. The picture hangers have 3M's "command adhesive" that releases when a tab is pulled, doesn't damage the paint. Two of them, applied to the ceiling with the hooks facing opposite ways should provide more then enough holding power. Or drill, put in a plastic anchor and hook, when you have your shot, remove it and spackle the hole up .

I'd lean toward rolls or sheets of just 1/4 and 1/2 of CTB and CTO. You can have the full range just by doubling up the gels. Sme DPs prefer straw instead of CTO. You'll also need ND and some diffusion as well. B&H Photo in NYC is also another online source for sheets.

When you choose a generator, you have to check the specifications for its continuous output. This is especially true with the smaller portables. A Honda 6500, only delivers 5500 watts continuous. I'm not sure about the Honda 7000, but it won't deliver 7000 watts except briefly. To connect your 10k, 5k or 2.5k HMI, you'll need adapter between the 60a bates and the generator receptical.

Rearding clones, I see that the Strand Redheads are being cloned. The seller claims that they are an "improved" version. I see cloned maffer clamps, c stands and grip heads, all the time on Fleabay. I wouldn't trust a maffer "type" clamp cast from unknown metal. But back to the real topic. Three 1K's won't help you when you need a small head for an eyelight. I'd look at a kit with greater variety in the heads. Maybe a 650/1000 kit.

You have the wiring correct. The extra holes would be for mounting the socket in various orientations.