chuck colburn

I would asking to see the serial number on that one. lol Judging by the rest of the stuff he's selling it's either a surplus buying operation or one hell of a pawn shop. Those lenses are not just floating around. Buyer beware.

Jay, I'm sure you already know but just in case... Mitchell movements need to be oiled everyday and if shooting 128 f.p.s. basically every take. So if you power that puppy up don't forget the camera oil on the movement elsewise you will end up with a door stop. lol cheers, Chuck

Morning Stephen, Your probally right about the service being recent. I sawall that Losoid BBR grease (the red stuff) oozeing out of the bearings on the drive side.

Morning Dave, Great site for Nikon lens info mayby not the latest but very in depth. The part about telextenders is really great. I've told people for years it's best to keep to the manufactures recommended model of ext. for a given lens. This is not to say that you can't use an off brand unit with whatever lens it's just that sometimes the lens maker has designed a given unit to perform best with a given or series of lenses. Anyhow great site. thanks. Chuck

One of those xenon bulb type flashlights or one with a bright LED will work fine. A medium focale length lens wide open is good.

Actually behind the lens filter holders (when there is a gel in the holder) increase the flange focale depth "optically" by about 1/3 the thickness of the gelatin filter. This would be appx. .0015". The flange depth of the camera should be adjusted for proper "C" mount depth (.690") with a filter in place. After that a gel should always be used even if it's just a clear one. This is important with those extremly short focale lengths found on super eight zooms. .0015" is a huge back focus error at 6mm.

If the Fuji camera is standard "C" mount (1" by 32 t.p.i. at .690" flange focale depth) then it should work fine. If you are near an optical repair shop or a motion picture equipment rental house, their lens tech can pop it on their autocollimator to confirm front and back focus.

Yes it will. A little opening where the gear drive meshes and a couple of screw holes. I'm pretty sure the Optivaron was made by Schneider.

If you are going to use just one lens in reverse you get a reversing ring and either extension tubes or a bellows unit.

One nice thing about those fast 200's is when combined with a 1.4x extender you get a 280mm f2.8 and when used with a 2x you get a 400mm f4 and it all fits in one case.

Almost perfect for the standard size TV screen. lol

Hi Max, Did'nt know they had two different formats. 8 perf would be like the 2 perf. Technoscope for Imax. lol

Well source impedance an amplitude levels aside, (you will probally need an external preamp) that your computer is expecting to see, what the heck it's cheap enough to fool around with and mayby you can use it with a camcorder someday that has an external mic. input. cheers, Chuck

Morning Brook, Imax is not anything like standard 65mm five perf pulldown. It's like a giant VistaVision camera where the film moves through the camera body on the horizontal plane (like a still camera). Can't remember the number of perforations per frame (15?) but it's a lot.

Best done on an indexing or spin grinding fixture and a surface grinder. Can be done on just a lathe. Talk to your local machinist he will know what to do. They are commonly referd to as sprocket teeth.

Mitchell movements (sliding pin registration) have been used in film chains but I believe a fixed pin shuttle type movement ( Bell & Howell 2709) adapts easier to thru the gate projection. It has always been considered the best form of registration for sprockted film. And is easier to make then a Mitchell type movement. Good for about 32 or so frames per second.

I don't know when was the last time you had your camera checked in a shop but it might be worth your while to take the camera body and what ever optics you have for it to a cine tech and have him/her pop it up on the autocollimator. This will confirm your flange focale depth and ground glass depth on the body and tell you if the individual lenses are properly set for infinity focus. A good shop will have a thru the lens projector which will point out any other optical problems with the lenses that don't show up on the autocollimator. It's a good way to qualify the camera and lenses for not too much money. Probally less then film testing. cheers,

I believe the Naval Observitory is in charge of when and where the sun rises. I think it's where the Dick lives too.

Those 70mm instrumentation cameras you see now and then would not be useable nowadays as they not only use 70mm stock but the perfs were Kodak standard (square perf) which I believe is no longer availble. (best to check on that though) and they were generally odd formats like 10 perf excetera. You might check with Max Penner at Paradisefx and ask what became of the Showscan 65mm cameras and lenses.

Hi Dave, BNCR flange focale depth is 2.420 inches. Which as you say equals 61.468mm.

Yep. The widest lens was a 28mm.

Quite right. I was on a 65mm shoot and the 1st forgot to put the plate in once and the footage was still useable. But then again the fastest lens was f2.8 which I'm sure helped. lol

Hi Rob, Does it cover S16 thru the whole focale length range? thanks, Chuck

That's interesting as the Mitchell mags were belt driven.

Use a hard matte in front of the taking lens. That's how they use to do keyholes, binoculars etc.