David Auner aac

Oh, I'm sorry to hear that Simon. I was just kidding you. Sorry for that. I wouldn't have done it had I known your situation was that dire. A pity to hear that. A friend and I are quite big fans of shooting 16mm in B&W and have been thinking of getting our own machine as labs don't really do nice B&W any more around here. What kind of material were you selling? Regards, Dave PS: Sorry again! I hope I haven't hurt your feelings.

Quite a shameless plug there, Simon! :D But why are you closed until further notice? Or is that info out of date? Cheers, Dave

Or revenge! Give off the job of cleaning that off to pay someone back! :D Cheers. Dave

I hope you're not thinking of Anton Bauer battery packs as a cheap option. Those things are insanely expensive for what they do. V mount packs are expensive too, but not that insane. But most camcorders today use 12-14.4 volts. A really cheap option to look into are battery packs for cordless tools. There is a number of people who use these. Look for older packs for 7.2V Makita cordless drills. Also, if you're a bit of a DIY guy you can solder your own. Get a couple of subC 1.2V NIMH cells at your local RC car shop. If you want a 6V battery pack take two series of 5 1.2V cells wired parallel. Use the high quality copper links for soldering. When done shrink wrap the whole thing and you got yourself a nice battery pack for around 70-100 bucks depending on the capacity and the quality of the cells. Regards, Dave

Hi John, drop me a note and I'll host it on my site for you. You could then post just the link! Cheers, Dave

Hm, interesting. My Bolex tech, Roger Sharland, said that my old pressure plate was worn badly and he assumed because they had run lots of mag strip through that camera. So we're not really speaking of damage here, only increased wear. Cheers, Dave

Hi Dennis, I felt the same when Roger Sharland quoted me around 900 EU earlier this year. But he needed to replace the pressure plate and the turret plate and those alone cost me close to 400! But will I ever need to that again? No, I doubt that! I'll take better care the little camera than it's previous owner did running lots of mags stripe film through it and shipping it with lenses in place! The Bolex is purring like a pleased kitten ever since! Cheers, Dave

Hm, I seem to remember that Redbook, the original CD-Audio standard specified only 74mins as maximum duration. Yes, have a look here: Wikipedia on CDA. Cheers, Dave

Dominic, here in Austria many do charge for overly long films. Anything being more than 120mins is more expensive. And many cinemas here did make an intermission in the LOTR films IIRC. Cheers, Dave

Hi Saul, yeah, that's why I had the stuff developed down there. Was about half the price it would have been here too. You're correct on the one light to DVCAM. I'll cut the whole thing and have a nice transfer to hard disk done when done and grade it then. And I also suspect that my Switars are not that contrasty after all. But that will become more apparent in the final transfer too. And it might also have to do with me not using a matte box as I didn't get the slide block in time. Cheers, Dave

All I can say is WOW! HOT! ;) Cheers, Dave

Hi folks, after getting back from Cape Town here's a couple of still from my 16mm footage shot there. I'll try and start cutting it next week after looking for some music to cut it to. I hope you'll enjoy looking at it half as much as I enjoyed shooting it. I shot 5 rolls of 7201 and 2 rolls of 7219 and had it developed and transferred to DVCAM by Soho Images at Waterfront Studios in Cape Town. They were a pleasure to deal with, so was Panavision/CT where I got the stock from. A Day on Long - Public Facebook Photo Album Cheers, Dave

Thanks, Bengt! Missed that one as I was busy w/ other stuff. Cheers, Dave

The SBM is a spring (SBM = Spring Bayonet Magazine) driven camera like most Bolexes are. The EBM and the EL are the only ones with internal electric motor. Cheers, Dave

I see a whole bunch of little devils!

Then I'm a little devil sitting on your shoulder, whispering "Annie, go for it!" :D What a nice package! Cheers, Dave

Hi gals 'n' guys! Seems like we got our own sub forum! I propose everyone says hi in this thread and we arrange for a couple of beers or the like pretty soon! Any takers? Liebe Gruesse, David

Thanks Tom, though I would need a 230V version. Cheers, Dave

Nope. I was very sure on that one. It's really strange! Maybe I will just try and see what happens with the next one. Any chance that any kind of orientation would also make this more likely? The failures I had were in different tilts though... Cheers, Dave

Thanks Walter. Yes voltage here is around 220. The bulbs were all Osram, so quality stuff. No, I left the lamp burning and did not touch the fixture at all before it blew. Will try and look for the 500W version. Anyone got the lamp code for that one? Aslo any other ideas? I mean is anybody else using this bulb? Cheers, Dave

Hi Adrian, I was not being too precise. I meant how should the fixture be applying to much voltage to the bulb! I do have a volt meter and know how to use it! ;) Cheers, Dave

Thanks Adrian! Hm, will check voltage. But how should it do that? And the bulbs were bought a couple of months apart, so I doubt that. Cheers, Dave

Hi gals & guys, I have a Lowel Omni that has been eating bulbs, never burning for more then 10min before a catastrophic lamp failure, i.e. blown lamp. Today I went into the bowels of said lamp but couldn't find anything amiss. Any ideas anyone? I used the right kind of bulbs, as listed by Lowel DYR/220 650W. Cheers, Dave

Yes, that's true. I was thinking of some kind of relay optics. Same as in some of the adapters for 2/3" lenses on 1/2" cameras. But then again you'd need a ground glass or the like to get the image off, right? Trouble is, you'd run into the same problems you have with 35mm DOF adapters (grain patterns, vignetting etc.). Cheers, Dave

Hi Phil, check this out. Toshiba IK-HD1. Maybe something like that would work. It's a pitty it's 1080i only. But this one is 1080p! 1-chip CMOS IK-HR1D Still doesn't solve the recording thing though. Cheers, Dave