robert duke

The UV filter is probably Thermo shock, although handling can definitely cause that as well. I have usually traveled with them built. I try to inspect before and after asap to file insurance with the carrier. I ve had minor luck in getting things covered. Usually production insurance picks it up. I hate saying it but it can really just be the cost of doing business. You can go the extra step of pulling the lamp and packaging separate, like 12k/18ks but for the smaller lamp you are putting more stress on it by just removing it and installing it than it would get in travel. Finger prints are bad.

Polypro Webbing is pretty good for wear and tear. There are however several dozen fabrics designed for this such as rhinotek and reprotek. you find these on suitcases and gym bags. you might experiment with rhino liner if you can't sew on the protection. it takes a special sewing machine to reach into the corners of bags. one that you might find at a cobblers store.

Please utilize a security officer to control the road for safety. Even if it is just intermittent control of the road, it is important for safety.

This sounds like either a hostess tray( framing out the bottom edge of the window for the hostess tray) or a Process Trailer. To get the full view of the door/windscreen the camera has to be back away from the car. The Safest way is the process trailer. the car is towed on a trailer and the camera can be positioned easily on the trailer deck with either a dolly or a set of sticks. I try to limit actors driving with any kind of mount for safety concerns. It is easy to forget about the 2+ feet of gear sticking out the side of a moving car. Dangerous for everyone in the vicinity.

The Best way to rig a camera on a car is the most efficient way that gets the shot safely. 35 mph to the camera looks a lot faster than it is. What do you want to see in the frame? how wide do you want to see? hand held? stabilized?

1 Get a permit, if it is a student film most permit offices have free support. I would hate that in trying to be "guerrilla" you would anger and close a location for ALL film shoots. If you can't get a free permit, Pay for it. they don't cost much. If you still insist on shooting without a permit at least get permission from the cemetery to use their property. It doesn't take much to ask. If they say no, try again. sometimes persistence pays off. Again please don't Close a location for others because you have a dream of being a cowboy. 2 the best way to get this shot in a expedient fashion is to use a stedicam or steadicam like device. Be it the old school 2x4 with 2 grips carrying the camera between them. The Movi or any number of knock offs. or just a steadicam operator and assistance. 3 IF you can't pay for the permit you probably can't pay for a qualified grip to rig a camera safely overhead. Think Liability. Ambulance chasers are everywhere.

None, he is free to take the job.

Please PM me. I am interested in some. RD

Grip Republic 220 st andrews Knoxville, TN (818)720-4922 (865)384-7473 (615)838-7200 Cranes: 39' Phoenix Remote/Rideable 16ft Felix jib 30' Super Techno Aerocrane 29' 32" Crane Track ( Cadillac) Car mounts Specialty Mounts Poormans process "Commutator" Spinning Light Rig

They seem to be a part time operation by a ex Chapman Machinist. I have tried to drop by and even had a appointment but never got to meet anyone. A guy next door to their space told me he is a machinist that once worked at Chapmen and occasionally still does. I like the look of their stuff but it does look extremely similar to Modern.

5x7 is bigger and softer. white bounce is white bounce. the bounce return will be a little harsher than beadboard but softer than foamcore, because the seamless paper has a shiny texture to it. you may also want to meter the opposite side to find out a relative transmission rate. (subtract the light going through the paper from the light hitting it, and measure the bounce.) totally unscientific, but it works. for fun you might try color paper for color bounces

please change your name as per forum rules.

try coollights.biz they are $10 for 15a model.

as learners these are great, but dont expect them to translate in output and beam field.

you might also try hand holding the lens detached from the body.

use a heavy diffusion on the lamp and flag it off the practical.

just not the interior of a bus window. ;) BTW chuck says hi.

you asked for advise and I say save your money. A small jib on a dolly will hide the arc by allowing the dolly to move in sync with the jib move. If you are a trained engineer, then why not look at the physics involved. adding weight to the end of a stick adds the wiggle you are wanting to avoid. yes the gear is lighter, but the physics of motion are the same. no matter how you want them to be.

if you spend money on a jib, that is getting QUALITY jib it will have very little wiggle. JL fisher arms wiggle, chapman arms wiggle, even the elemac wiggles. It is all to what extent it wiggles. the more mass a crane, jib, slider, dolly has the less wiggle will be apparent. Again it is about Physics. An object is motion will remain in motion until acted upon by an outside force, and an object at rest will remain at rest until acted upon by an outside force. thusly without the math the more mass and thereby momentum/ the more inertia it takes to get in motion or change directions ( wiggle). Spend more $ and the problem is solved. rent a grip truck with a proper dolly and it will cost you less in time and headache trying to invent a square wheel. you dont need to fit anything in a hatchback if you rent a grip truck. It is unfortunate to think that you can achieve professional quality with less than professional gear. in order to save the $325 rental you want to spend $3600 ($200 dolly, $1500 jib, $700 tripod, $1200 slider). Only to find out it still isn't a workable solution. you could rent a dolly 10 times for the cost of your experiment. Try as an experiment put 1lb on the end of a 6ft 1x3 and move it around. it wiggled. adding mass to the end of a jib with a slider only exacerbates the issue of wiggle.

why? the jib arm gives vertical motion. the straight shooter allows the user to hide the arc of the jib with the slider. the jib would have to be able to carry the weight of the camera, head , and the slider. you would have to use one of the professional level jibs. (10lbs of camera, 15lbs of head, 15lbs of slider= 40lbs of payload) . why not look at a zero gravity jib? http://www.khill.com/prod03.htm the slider on the end of the jib vertically would just limit your travel. you would lose lower end and upper end on the jib. it would mute the point of a small jib and limit the jib selection on longer jibs. The Jony jib only has a 30lb payload. the jimmy jib only has a 30lb payload (spec) at full stick. you dont gain anything using it vertically. the chapman stinger jib and the straight shooter and a couple others use the slider effectively to mask the horizontal arc of the jib. the vertical slider would only increase the arc of the jib, think unwanted tracking in the horizontal plane. again why? you lose and limit yourself more than you gain.

the elemacks were great for their day. finding a reliable one is the tough part. parts are getting scarce and people to fix them are getting scarcer. The idea is that you want smooth movement. Mass provides that smooth movement. I have had problems with fisher 11s and peewees with 5ds. adding weight to the head much like steadicams help. Right now there are no small market dollys that have an arm that work great. The PD150 works but it is not great. the chameleon works but not great. there is an italian dolly that works better (dont know the name , saw it at cinegear 11) some guy in san fernando has one to rent. the problem there is servicing a dolly. with no to little support from a manufacturer you can get up a creek pretty quick. I still recommend a small jib arm, there are some that have a drag system to assist in boom speed. the mass of the arm also assists in smooth movement. mass = momentum= greater muscle control= smoother movement. the vertically mounted slider, unless you are talking about the new matthews slider/jib or ones like it you are left to deal with lifting the camera manually and your smooth boom is negated. yes the bearings move smooth, but your muscle lift may not. lease a chapman or a fisher. you will have support, parts, accessories and the ability to rent it. rather than an item that cant be translated to another DP/Producer. Nothing says professional than showing up with a homemade dolly.

Most Hydraulic dollies give a smooth are movement because of the weight. As the load gets lighter the boom arm goes faster. There aren't a lot of options without the weight. you might consider a small jib arm on a doorway dolly. It wont hide the arc of the arm as a chapman does, but with a medium lenght (5ft) the arc is minimized by the short move. I dont like the chameleon or the PD150. The build quality is sub par. Get a lease on a Chapman Peewee.

push pins tape( paper), velcro, If you add a layer of painters tape to the wood to protect it you can use snot tape, or butyl. Follow the lead of the Key.

GO old school and make a swing set out of 2x4s and drill/bolt the camera to a 2x4.

The didnt light it. it is just the sun bouncing off the water. the staged so they were backlit against the setting sun.