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Albion Hockney

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    LA
  • My Gear
    35mm

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  1. I believe Amran is there cheaper more consumer level products from aperture but I'm not sure. for Aputure i'm only personally familar with the hard lights like the 300x/600x/1200 maybe check out alladin, intelytech, nanlite if litegear is too pricy —but I havent used any of those products personally
  2. Lots of great options depending on your budget. Most will give you more output and more flexibility than an old school kino. litgear litmat is popular - maybe more on the expensive end. aputure is another more budget friendly people seem to like
  3. I think a 12x overhead w/ 4-4x4 LED's is a good source. If you have the brightness I'd go Full Grid or Magic Cloth if you want it to be really even. If you want to make it moodier Skirt the edges of the 12x w/ duvatene to keep light from spilling onto the background For fill/eye light I would take another 12x or an 8x and bounce some light into it, but it can be pretty low level.
  4. basically what you got here is soft top light. the first example is one soft light over head and a little frontal. The 2nd example is like a more complicated version of the first. in the 2nd wide shot you have a big bright source coming from the rear right side of frame edging everyone + a soft top light. that bright source from the rear right is something bigger then the lights you have. Maybe a 1200D instead of 120d could do it. The top light you would need to cover a set this big would be large - that many people I'd prob build and overhead 12x softbox. you could try finding a way to rig the 8x overhead and bounce light into it.
  5. Are using the M-LUT in camera. for the FX9 you need to turn M-LUT on to see the changes as far as I know. if that doesn't work then there might be another setting causing the issue or less likely an issue with the camera. Sony menus are difficult. just keep messing with it. are you using an external monitor or do you have an SDI monitor you can try as well?
  6. I've use the emotimo system before which works directly with Dana Dolly products. Worked well, though it is a bit "prosumer" feeling and can just barley handle a striped down alexa mini. I know Kessler has a similar product too now.
  7. Lol. so funny how things work out. I've heard of pristine MKIII's closer to 100k. meanwhile Ultra primes are not looking so good these days.
  8. I think it is standard across systems. Dana dolly is the original. Most people use speed rail to run them
  9. Red is a brand not really designed to target people who want reliability and a proper professional product. They built the brand on hype and social media influence. I agree it would be nice for that to change and have another legit player in the marketplace
  10. Yea I think this is a very long term game and is clearly just business stuff. That said I think in the longer term it could add more competition that could be interesting. Maybe a more fully featured red komodo for under 10k for example. This is a hard space to get into though and only getting harder as tech improves even with the RED brand and tech it might just not happen for Nikon. Panasonic hasn't been able to crack the code even with pretty good camera tech (ie the varicam and varicam LT).
  11. Nikon is a huge company with way more resources then RED. Maybe Nikon will create some interesting cameras —or maybe the whole thing will be mismanaged, But can't be much worse then RED. I see less and Red's on set these days other then the komodo. Atleast they finally got ND filters in the things. Hopefully Nikon can take the base of what Red is doing and improve upon it, they could become a major player in the next 5 years if so.
  12. this might of interest -https://www.keslowcamera.com/gear/film-cameras/35mm-mos/arriflex-35-iic-hand-crank-modification/
  13. I have no idea how they actually did it, but it looks like a handcranked effect to me. Also I think this spot is 35mm. I'm not sure about this, but isn't there something you can get for some some arri 35 camera to do handcranking?
  14. I’d just get a fisheye converter - they make them at .3x magnification or even wider. In post you can distort it back to rectilinear, though the grain might look a bit weird. or shoot on 16mm
  15. The stabilization might get funky I’d test that if you want to try it. This is. It stabilization in camera and looks great
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