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Frank Cook

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About Frank Cook

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  • Birthday 11/27/1964

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    Filming wildlife. I believe wild animals should be used rather than zoo or trained animals whenever possible. To this end, I film wild animals on bluescreen sets in the wild. <br /><br />I enjoy working in remote areas using 35mm film gear. My prime objective is NOT being eaten by my actors! - I want to have all of my fingers and toes when I get home.<br /><br />Most natural history filmmakers could earn extra money filming on blue/green screen sets, and I make an effort to promote this idea. It's good for the photographer and the wildlife.

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  1. I have a couple of Arri magazines for sale on eBay. Displacement mags for ARRI 35mm IIC type camera ~ fits most ARRI MOS cameras. They are in excellent working condition ~ never had any problems with jams or scratches. See auction here http://www.ebay.com/itm/231026612284?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649 Have one more to sell when this auction ends.
  2. I recommend American Cinematographer Magazine. This publication is put out by the ASC (American Society of Cinematographers), and contains a wealth of information. Their website: theasc.com has a store that sells all kinds of items needed on set, and books on how to use about everything in making movies. The members of the ASC has been involved in more great films than I could list here, and they have been around since 1919. Of course you found one of the best places to learn on-line. This site! Many of the users here are working professionals. Practice with a still camera using film is good, but I would suggest getting an 8mm movie camera. They are pretty cheap, but the price of film will teach you to be efficient. This will help you understand the process of script to screen. A projector can often be found in thrift stores for less than $20.00, but make sure it works and the bulb is not burned out. If you want to be a DP or cinematographer, people will take you more seriously if you have shot on film.
  3. Looks pretty good. I did notice that it was shot on S16, but the filmstock is listed as 5219. Wouldn't that be 7219? 5219 is 35mm.
  4. For some reason 3D films give me a headache within about 5 minutes. This one was no exception. I didn't even make it through the coming attractions (also in 3D) before my eyes hurt.
  5. Frank Cook


    Has anyone used an Arriflex BL I converted to 2-perf? What are the strong/weak points of running this camera 2-perf?
  6. I'm looking to upgrade my gear with the addition of an Arri 35 BL I with 2-perf movement. I film mostly wildlife, so the ability to shoot at speeds up to 100fps and keep a steady registration is important. I have been using an Arri IIC, and it works very well, but makes too much noise when filming from close range. Also, most of the footage is bluescreen footage, and needs to be rock steady. Does shooting 2-perf eliminate the need for high-speed rollers on the magazine? It seems like it should since the film is only moving half as fast. Anyone "been there, done that?" I've been price shopping, but have not found "the" camera. I might buy one, and have it converted (price quote for conversion is ~ $8,000 USD). But, I'm checking prices on camera's that already have the 2-perf movement. Other cameras might do the job, but must be light enough for me to backpack a couple of hours to the location, be silent, and VERY reliable (sending a camera out for repair is a really big deal). Any ideas?
  7. Great looking footage. However, you should try to include women and persons other than Caucasian in your demo. What looks good for lighting a man's face - say from the side with a triangle of light on the opposite cheek - might not work at all for an elder woman. Use your DEMO to show you are a master of filming. Anyone - Anywhere.
  8. I found a great example of an ARRI 35 II on eBay. It has serial number 2005, so it would have been made in 1946 or 1947 (this should be the fifth camera made by ARRI post-war). The movement is the button type (changed in the ARRI IIA), and the chamber looks slightly different than that of the original ARRI 35 that I sold to John Sprung (#1578). There are some great photos of the camera. The camera is on eBay item # 350274080201. Here's the listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/Arri-Arriflex-35mm-Len...=item518df64dc9
  9. Les Bosher can also make a 1.4X or 2X extender-converter for use with larger lenses.
  10. Have you checked the flange depth and ground glass on the BL2? With your Angenieux zoom at 250mm the is a less depth of field at the subject and more depth of field with the lens at 25mm, but at the film plane, it is opposite. At the film plane, the depth of focus is much more shallow with the lens set at 25mm than at 250mm! Check your flange depth and ground glass. If it was the lens, it would cause the same problem with both cameras. Hope this helps - it should be cheap to check and fix.
  11. Just need to add that this Arriflex IIC has the 172.8 degree shutter rather than the 180 to allow for flicker free use with certain lighting.
  12. I am selling my Arriflex IIC High Speed with Angenieux 25~250 3.9 zoom and mags. Camera has been converted to PL Mount and lens has Visual Products PL mount converter. See and bid on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=230319471637 Everything is in excellent condition - never abused. This camera produces a very steady image.
  13. Super 35 changes the center of the frame, so the lens mount should be re-centered (to the right if looking at the front of the camera) when using zoom lenses.
  14. Frank Cook


    It's most likely a Model II (2). Model I ended before #2000. The Arri factory was bombed during WWII, so the exact ending number for the Arriflex Model I is not known. All of Arriflex IIA cameras I have come across have the improved cam movement, but some on these forums say there are a few IIA's with the old button movement. If the camera works good, I wouldn't worry about the exact model. If it was a model I, it would almost impossible to get replacement parts because when the Arri factory started making cameras after the war, small changes were made - just enough to make most of the parts not interchangeable. Camera models from the 35 II up to the 35 IIC have have mostly interchangeable parts - many repair shops have a collection for when the need arises. I think the only big changes were the button movement to cam movement, and the shape of the door was changed on the IIC. Changes such as variable shutter, 3 perf movement, PL mount lens, etc. are modifications on standard cameras.
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