Ryan Thomas

I have the setwear mini tool pouch. I did myself a little favor though and took off the setwear logo. Now I grip in style B) It wouldn't be too good for AC'ing though. I like having two different pouches though, one for AC'ing, the other for gripping. That way if I ever get an AC job, I just have to switch them out on my belt and I'm good to go.

This seems like a great idea, I'll have to give this a shot sometime.

Just don't go too crazy with those gels.

I believe there is a company called Lightning Strikes! that manufactures a bunch of different lamps that will flash instantaneously. I don't know if it can flash on though...That should get you somewhere...

The simplest thing that people do, that is just for ease of use and not so much for reducing paper consumption, is printing scripts at 1/4 size. You could do that with your shot lists and stuff as well. Although there is a large amount of waste that is generated by the film industry, that doesn't mean you can't try and do something about it...Just yeah, make sure your efforts are doing something! On the last few sets I've been on I've noticed some printout they've had around about what each department could do to reduce their carbon footprint. I wish I could find a copy of it online...

I wouldn't bother. There's so much vignetting on those clips and it wasn't even shot with a very wide lens. Stick with the Letus, it's the only one worth buying in my opinion. Either way, you get what you pay for.

Haha, that's what I was thinking. You want to change the blinds, eh? This though, is key. I've made so many awkward phone calls the past year or so, and it's finally paying off. Throughout that whole time as well, I've only had one negative experience, and it turns out that's the one guy I really don't want to work with. Just go for it! You've really got nothing to lose.

I think the internship for sure. It's the one that's most likely going to get you the work later on.

It seems like you only overexposed it by a stop, so they won't be a white blur at all. You'll find that people will purposely under or overexpose their negative to achieve certain effects. If anything, you'll just have to print it down and come out with something a bit more contrasty than you were expecting. If you haven't already, you should check out the book "Film Lighting". The reason he says spotmeters are useful for what you were trying to do, is because spot meters will peg your exposure at zone 5. So if you read the persons white face at f4 with a spot meter, you'll know that you have to open up to f2.8 to put it at zone 6. What the incident meter is doing though, is it's reading a white object (zone 8) in the light. You shouldn't have to do any corrections to put that certain brightness value at the correct zone. As long as you use your incident meter in your key light, you should come pretty close to a properly exposed negative. By the way, the sunny 16 rule basically says that at f16, your proper shutter speed is the reciprocal of your film speed. So if you're shooting with 64asa film, at f16 your shutter should be 1/64th of a second. Since you can't really set your shutter independently without creating other "issues", you would have to figure out that 1/64 is 1/2 stop difference from 180 degree shutter, which is 1/48th. So your proper exposure would be an 11/16 split with a 180 degree shutter. Sorta complicated, but perhaps it'll help you out if you're ever in a pinch.

You should probably change your name to be your first and last name before someone sees. But basically, get a light, get some venetian blinds, then shoot your light up through the venetian blinds to project it on the ceiling. Remember the further away you put the light, the harder the shadow will be.

I can't figure out how to edit my post, but I realize now that you're in france. Too bad. Good luck with your shoot.

Need a gaffer Jason? :lol: Feel free to give me a call if you need some help on your shoot man. It'd be cool to hang out again.

The polarizing gels sound like fun. Cool stuff.

Can you have the laptop next to your camera if you're not moving around too much and capture while you shoot? Although you'll end up with a pretty hefty file, you would basically have all your footage captured as soon as they're finished. From there you can start authoring your DVD, which should just be the converting and burning of the DVD. Do everything else the day or so before if possible.

Yeah, it will just focus at different distances. Depending on which direction it is though, you might not be able to hit infinite.

If you have to touch the barrel directly, it's always going to be tough. The best way to make things easy is a follow focus and a whip. That's how I usually handle it.

I've only been around for a month or so, and I feel like I've seen it maybe...once or twice a week. I'm getting the feeling I should start scouring the libraries for this book. (Oh yes...found it already. Looking forward to checking this out tomorrow!)

Unless you were shooting some strange shutter, I'm just going to take a stab at it and say that the genny's voltage was a little off. That could be culprit with the flicker. You would just have to adjust the voltage on the genny while you measure it with a voltage meter to make it correct.

I'm sure the first thing you should probably work on is getting scuba certified, just so you know...you can actually go underwater. I admit I'm not very knowledgeable with the topic at hand, but I do know that the set lighting technicians handbook had a chapter on underwater lighting. It was a nice little intro to it. Good luck.

Jamie, I propose a bbq tour of San Francisco. After hearing you talk about hard knox and this gorilla bbq...oh man.

Some cool shots. I saved 50 feet of some 64D a while back for this same purpose....I just gotta roll it and get some chemicals to process it up. I have heard sort of mixed reviews of processing your own color film though. Is it as toxic as people seem to say?

I usually place my key first, then fill as needed. Just because you don't always need that raise in ambiance...I feel like it's also a lot easier to see what you're working with as soon as you place your key.

I went to the SF School of Digital Filmmaking. It was cool. There are a lot out there though, just gotta look into them. Good luck! Also, community college is never a bad idea. Especially if you want to go to UCLA or something of the sort. Get your GE credits out of the way quickly and inexpensively, then you can get right in it. That would definitely save you some cash...

It's funny, I was at a friend of mines house and saw them do the sweeping move over congress and couldn't help but point it out. Glad I'm not alone on noticing this.

And hey, why even tungsten film? It seems like you'll be going with daylight with the large windows and HMI's, so maybe switch it up to daylight. Just a thought...