Jump to content

Johanan Pandone

Basic Member
  • Posts

    85
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Johanan Pandone

  1. servo motor with linear actuator, very easy to control with regular RC car remote
  2. At 18fps the shutter speed is 1/65, at 24fps the shutter speed is 1/86, and at 36fps it is 1/130
  3. There's very limited options for zoom lenses with more than 2-3x zoom range. That's why I'd like to explore this further.
  4. Hey guys, I was doing some math the other day and realized that when shooting Raw video in the 3x crop mode on my 5D the active sensor area is very close to 16mm format. I'd like to try an m42 version of the krasnogorsk meteor 5-1 zoom since m42 is easily adapted to EF mount. Are there any other 16mm cine zooms that could be adapted in this way?
  5. or these (650w) 10pcs Ceramic Standard Medimun Screw Base Socket E26 E27 Bulb Holders With Wire for Hot Halogen Bulb (E26 10pcs) - - Amazon.com
  6. these are $4.00 a pop, but they're porcelain and the ease of mounting is what appeals to me: Satco 80/2164 Medium Base Socket E26 Surface Mount Porcelain 6" Leads Sign Receptacle (lighting2lightbulbs.com)
  7. because this lens has 3 different helicoids working in tandem, (because of close range correction) I used the lightest grease available (#10) the only thing with a lower viscosity that won't migrate would be a regular household white lithium grease (which I've read is appropriate for stiffer lenses or very fine threads)
  8. I was successful in my attempt to dismantle, clean and regrease the helicoids. I put it all back together and it focuses perfectly from infinity to macro, there is just one sport where it's a little stiff I think this is when the CRC helicoid kicks in. may have to take it apart again and rehaul those threads with a lapping compound but right now it works well enough for my use!
  9. OOH! thanks for the warning, definitely don't want to get branded by the cookaloris!
  10. I'm pretty damn happy with this thing for $75.0p (used) i measure f4 (asa 800) from 10' away with full CTO through a 55" softbox with the interior diffusion kthe one that hangs inside plus the outer diffusion (so 2 layers of diffusion) this thing is gonna be really handy. As an added bonus the barn doors from my LOWEL DP light fit perfectly so this solves the problem of gel frames!
  11. Hey guys, I found a great deal on some GODOX sl-60w today, they are a 60watt open face daylight LED with a standard bowens mount (kind of like aputure) I have a bowens style speedring for a 58" octagon softbox already, I'd like to purchase some other modifiers but I've never owned any other bowens mount stuff. The first thing would be some type of gel frame for CTO (to balance with my tungsten kit) do they make something that just snaps in to the bowens refelector? I'm also interested in some type of ellipsoidal attachment (so i can use it to fill a bounce card like we do with LEKO's) can you guys recommend anything? and maybe just some basic essential bowens specific attachments that would make a nice kit? (barn doors, lanterns, etc...)
  12. So if I understand this correctly, if I wanted the same DOF as 2.8 (s35/aps-c) I would need to stop down to a 4-5.6 split (FF) ?
  13. Hey guys, We're slow here at the shop where I work. (winter slump) I have access to a mig welder, drill press, some taps/dies and a band saw. I was thinking of fabbing up some little bits and peices that could come in handy for rigging. maybe start with making some wall plates that have an 3/8" nut welded to them that I can easily screw a baby pin or other receivers into? What are some other peices that are simple to make with the equipment I have listed?
  14. Now that I've had a few weks to practice with this camera package, I have found that the 5D3 sensor is capable of shooting at much higher ISO with less noise than the 7D because it uses 3x3 pixel binning instead of line skipping. So a lot of the noise get's binned out in camera. This has allowed me to shoot deeper stops with the same lighting setups. It seems like If I shoot for 5.6 I have about as much DOF as 2.8 on a S35 kit. couple that with the fact that the HDMI out is a true 1080p it's easier to see critical focus on a monitor or EVF too. feel much more confident now. Thank you for your input
  15. Guys thanks for the input. After staring at richard haw's photos for a full day I think i can do the job properly.
  16. Hey guys, a few years ago I think i had some success getting old nikkors with stiff focus to loosen up by squirting a few drops of gun oil beneath the focus barrel with a small syringe. Problem is, I can't remember which part I squirted it into, (im thinking it's the tiny crack between the front element and the rotating barrel. Any tips or opinions on this? This is not a lens I'm willing to pay to have CLA's but it's also not one I'm willing to open up because I'm intimidated by the extra mechanics of the CRC ***close range correction*** (micro nikkor 105mm 2.8 ais)
  17. II guess it's popular to replace the kids "powerwheels" electric motorized cars with Dewalt batteries. That's where I got the yellow part. Wired up a DC-DC step down converter based on LM2596 (92% efficient) wired it up in a small project box. Next I'll put it in a thinner metal enclosure and add a V-Lock (you know...the male V part) It's putting out 8.3v for my canon 5D3, but you could set it to 14.4 or whatever you need. When all you anton bauers are dead, just borrow a drill from the carpenters and you're good to go!
  18. Got the rail and carriage from servo city, (years ago). fabbed some brackets with the u-channel, tomorrow I add a motor speed controller, limit switches, and wireless control of fwd/reverse> It's just a timing belt, a small DC gear motor and an idler.
  19. Scored one of these for $60 yesterday! sure, it's got some drawbacks: - Variable aperture (so what, just call it 5.6 and you've got an additional stop at the wide end for emergencies!) - No hard focus stops (that's ok, I wouldn't be using this with a motor for handheld work) - Electronic aperture (i can count the number of times I've done a rolling aperture rack on one hand) Pros: This thing is damn sharp at every focal length, I would say It's biggest strength is the Image stabilization. It works really really well. I'm amazed that I can do a handheld shot @ 135mm and there is no camera shake! I'm not a purist anymore. This is the furthest thing from a cinema lens, but I think a light zoom with image stabilization is a good piece of kit! - - -
  20. does the tamron have hard stops on the focus ring?
  21. Anyone have an opinion on this lens? This seems to be the widest affordable rectilinear lens for full-frame coverage. I've had mixed experiences with the rokinon cine stuff. The 24 and 35 were decent, the 16 was amazing (although the durability of the coatings was pretty disappointing) and the 85mm was total shit.... This is a focal length I would rarely use, but I'd like to have something in this range in case I'm back against a wall or need a very stylized establishing shot (think low angle looking up a large building and the furthest I can back up is right across the street)
  22. If you're worried about vignette you could always go the route of putting a step up ring (58-77 for example) and then stack 77mm filters (which are common and cheap) on the step-up ring. As far as adding ghosts, sure, every extra peice of glass you place in the optical path creates an opportunity for more reflections, but most problems come from light hitting the glass sideways, so if you've got any control over lighting, you can adjust the placement of your backlights, flag off any unwanted spill, and adjust you camera angle to minimize these reflections. Don't be afraid to make your own hood out of gaff tape and anything material you have on hand that is flat black (cinefoil, posterboard, etc.) it might look silly, but I've done this many times to get rid of unwanted reflections. You could also back up and use a longer lens (which would allow for a longer hood) to get out of the path of offending light. There's so many things you can do to control it. Start by holding your hand out over and infront of the lens until you figure out which side you need to block then cobble something together. Get the shot. throw it away!
×
×
  • Create New...