Luigi Castellitto

Hello friends, do you recommend some small and portable 35mm projectors? Useful for projecting small films in 35mm, such as 100feet home films, or short films of few minutes. Not a movie of hours, of course! It's hard to find them, because with the search "35mm projector" come out from eBay and similar slide projectors. It would be appropriate to know brands and names. Fine even very old projectors, even crank, just as functional to the projection. Ah, low price range! Thank you!

Interesting, Frank, thank you. I had already gone on that site, but I had gone out immediately believing it had been abandoned, a look at the graphics had misled me.

Thank you, Nick, I'm trying too with a air tight bag (and with holes covered by a sticker), we see that results come out... However, the WeinCELL MRB625 have the right tension, 1.35v, the exposure meter is accurate. Perhaps, the adapter I mentioned could be a valid substitution (also reduces to 1.35v batteries that would be 1.50v). I will write about updates. :)

Than you, Aapo, you have been very precise, also for advice for "oct 18" for AKS4, there are many on ebay and similar. I notice that even the Lomo are not very expensive, I could also buy one and then the other two after some time. It's precisely the motor that worries me, often it is not working or even absent on sales. Let's see what I can find.

Thank you, Todd, in the past I tried to pack a zinc-air batteries by closing its holes; I did not seem to have achieved great results, but now I'm trying again with another one. Meantime: I have read about a MR-9 battery adapter which is used with Silver Oxide batteries of 1.55v, for have 1.35v, and replace old PX13. Do it get the same precision as with the usual zinc-air (like Wein Cell) that replaces the PX13? Buy the adapter once and then buy the cheap silve oxide it would not be bad.

I use zinc-air batteries to replace those no longer produced, for example on my Bolex Gossen light meter. I wondered if there was a way to slow down their discharge when they are not used, in addition to removing them from the device as do with normal batteries. They have a really short life and cost a little bit. Thank you. :)

@Simon: the chargers of Debrie Sept are for 5 meters film? I found more opinions. Are the chargers easy to load with another film?

Thanks to all, friends, many interesting tips! Lomokino is a good experiment, but the result is a film not fluid. However, it remains a good option, at that low cost you can also accept its nature of a particular camera, with its personal viewer/projector. The Eyemo, as mentioned, is beautiful, is precisely a high class room, out of economic budget. I started to seriously look for the Konvas, without lens it's possible to find models at very low cost, and so: you said some lenses. Which models can be used? Something Soviet like the camera or good substitutes? And if I wanted to mount a zoom instead of three lenses? In Europe do you know someone who make haul on the Konvas?

I always have an eye on ebay and similar hoping to find one at a lower price, maybe without lens, which I would take later. It has a beautiful design, a great camera. Although not very different from some famous B&H 16mm cameras, much cheaper. About the Kinamo, also there is a big difference in price between the 16mm and 35mm version. I guess only for rarity of 35, they have the same mechanics.

It's just a very suitable camera type, Tyler. Unfortunately it's not sold at a very economical price.

Who can recommend a portable 35mm cine camera? Which is minimally available. Like Zeiss Kinamo, but not necessarily the same shape, even bigger, I took that as an example regarding the very low price range. I would only need to experiment with films of very little duration, even just seconds. The year of production is not a problem, for other formats I also use machines of the '40s, '50s, etc., the important thing is that it works. Also Soviet, of any production. Thank you. :)

I have read of several K-3 unlocked with a little knocks or touching in a precise point (which I can'tremember) with the lens removed. Some camera go overwound (the winding turned over the normal, maybe the case of Louis) unlocked like that.

I read the thread with great interest, indoor shooting is always an interesting test. I am very satisfied with the results, Samuel, the 500T is really a "cat", it see in the dark. I would have also worried about color temperature, because the lights of a gym can also be very different from a 3200K temperature, instead your colors are very faithful. Just one question: for the focus, could not you take a look directly at the notch on the lens and make a mental calculation of the distance? I know it's uncomfortable, but it would have been an emergency thing.

Thank you, Stefano, I'll inform with mail. I already have a camera in assistance, I wait for that to come back to me and I'll do it.

just that kind of film that is good ONLY in film! Very beautifull!

Thank you! Do you know anyone in Europe?

Do you know anyone, in addition to Retro8 in Japan, who repairs or make overhaul on Fujica ZC1000? Thank you!

I answer myself: better the "exposure compensation" option at 1/3rd stop over, with the needle just above the center. For have 160 Asa. With the Fractional Exposure Control at "2" the camera would give a 100 Asa exposure, too much.

Anyone use or know the Retro-X 200 Asa film in Single 8 format? I use it with my Fujica ZC1000; camera, as known, doesn't have the external setting for the Asa, but uses only the notches on the cartridge. I'm going to use this film with artificial light, 3400K; obviously without a filter, it's a b/w film. Considering that cartridge contains an Orwo 200 Asa daylight, and that the Orwo UN54 (ex. in Double 8 format) it born for 100 or 125 asa in daylight and at 80 or 100 Asa in artificial light, this film Retro-X should be set at 160 Asa. It's Ok? But how use with the mentioned ZC1000? It's a good setting the Fractional Exposure feature of this camera at "2"? See photos below. More comfortable than the method at photo upward, I suppose.

Thank you for info, Mark. I found a person who gives it to me for free. He uses, now, only the 16mm, he left the Super8 format, says it is in mint state and with instructions. Sorry, I did not realize you already had it, I thought you should ask to other persons. When it arrives I'll test it, I'll tell you how it goes. However, I follow your advice, no more than 180 frames, even if my Beaulieu already has the option to do it, and as Martin rightly said, perhaps more than the 100 frames printed on the frame counter could go... We will see which method will be more safe.

More than "light leaks" on the whole frame, I detect, even very rarely, some "spots of light" in some places of frames, at random places. One thing that does not happen to me with any other camera that I have.

Thank you, David. Yes, Mark, I'm interested. I also saw the ewa, very readily available, what do you think about it? Of course, it's clear that the Craven is more solid, it's in metal. I found it only at, £49.99, but is too much, it's not worth that price. How many roll-up frames does Craven declare?

David, so do you recommend the rewinders, like Hama, ewa, etc.? :)

A couple of years ago my K3 crashed on the ground because a foot of the tripod did not fix well and is slowly back. Result: it is not even scratched, it's like new. I don't know what would have happened to other more complex cameras... It works well and for what I have to do is excellent, the only thing that bother me are the "leaks" of light that can be seen in the films shooting with this camera, which I think are a constant of K3 (for reflex of light inside the lens and body of the camera) and not due to the crash at ground. Anyone have "leaks" with K3too? If it were broken, I would buy it again, and not repair it.

I use a nice Pathé Webo BTL (which I'm sending to overhaul). With Fomapan, of course, 30 meters, but also 10 meters, even if the Pathé can only contain 30 meters reels, I rewind the 10m reels in 30m reels. I also know that the Retro 8 machine can cut films in DS8, since it's a Super 8 machine that forms the same holes, and doing the same on two sides of a 16mm should not be difficult. The DS8 is a format never used properly (also for few emulsions :( ), it's great...